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1986 gs550es carb removal help needed

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Hi Guys,

I'm working on a project with my son and we are stuck with trying to get the carbs removed from our 1986 GS550ES. We are stuck with how to remove the choke cables and throttle cable. I've attached a link to a video to show you the issue: https://youtu.be/SxdTt10r_Og

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paul & Luke
 
Do you have a manual? Which one? Have you done this sort of work before, and what are you planning to do? Replace? Repair?
 
Download the manual from BikeCliff's website. The dual carbs are a bit of a different animal, including the way the choke cable connects on the carb body, than the 4 carb banks. I briefly looked at it. Did see a very detailed exploded view of carbs and all the parts, including the choke cable inlet and all its components. Didn't see (on my brief look, it's a lot of pages) a detailed explanation on removing the choke cable from the carb body.

You want this one:
GS550E/ES/L Service Manual '83 (149MB)
 
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Do you have a manual? Which one? Have you done this sort of work before, and what are you planning to do? Replace? Repair?

I have a couple of manuals from BIKECLIFFs site as well as CLYMER M373 SUZUKI GS550 Service manual (photo attached). I've worked on automotive carbs before but not these. The carbs on the bike are two Mikuni BSW30SS constant velocity (CV). Bike has been sitting a while. We just cleaned out the tank and are going to try to clean the carbs and replace carbs if that doesn't work. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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  • CLYMER M373.jpg
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Download the manual from BikeCliff's website. The dual carbs are a bit of a different animal, including the way the choke cable connects on the car body, than the 4 carb banks. I briefly looked at it. Did see a very detailed exploded view of carbs and all the parts, including the choke cable inlet and all its components. Didn't see (on my brief look, it's a lot of pages) a detailed explanation on removing the choke cable from the carb body.

You want this one:
GS550E/ES/L Service Manual '83 (149MB)

Hi Rich,

Yes. I looked at the same exploded view but as you mentioned it doesnt really show how that cable is attached to the carb. I appreciate the input.
 
You seem to be missing the threaded part of the "nut" on the left side. If the threaded portion is still in the carb body, it will have to be removed in order to disconnect the choke plunger. If the right side is still intact, remove with care in order to not break off the head from the threaded portion.
 
You seem to be missing the threaded part of the "nut" on the left side. If the threaded portion is still in the carb body, it will have to be removed in order to disconnect the choke plunger. If the right side is still intact, remove with care in order to not break off the head from the threaded portion.

So in order to remove the choke cable do I just loosen the nut and pull up to remove? Is the nut / plunger all that is holding it in place? I was concerned that the cable was attached some where inside the carb itself.
 
On the throttle cable end at the carbs. You need to rotate the throttle linkage up manually as happens when you twist the throttle, or just twist the throttle all the way, then wedge something under the linkage so it stays in the open position when you release or turn the throttle grip back to the closed position. With slack in the cable, you can now position the barrel end of the cable to be removed from the linkage.

Choke/starter cable:This isn’t really adding any info and it’s still not clear to me how thing are connected under the nut you already removed. The FSM is very vague but figure 2 below looks like the end of the cable may have a ball end with attached “hat”? IDK
yzMl4gP.png


maybe this cut-away view gives a clue?:
4ZDwHWm.png


Here’s the exploded view mentioned earlier:
bcOWRxe.png
 
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So in order to remove the choke cable do I just loosen the nut and pull up to remove? Is the nut / plunger all that is holding it in place? I was concerned that the cable was attached some where inside the carb itself.

In order to remove, you remove the threaded nut completely and the cable and plunger will come out as a unit. From your video, it appears that you have broken the nut off of the threaded part which explains why you can't get it out of the carb - the threaded part is keeping it in the carb.
 
I think killer’s got it. That nut is actually a hollow bolt, the threads of which are still in the carb body. Before you attempt to remove the other one from carb 2, get some PB blaster or other penetrating oil soaking in there for a while.

WBhtHTih.jpg
 
In order to remove, you remove the threaded nut completely and the cable and plunger will come out as a unit. From your video, it appears that you have broken the nut off of the threaded part which explains why you can't get it out of the carb - the threaded part is keeping it in the carb.


I double checked and unfortunately you are right. The lower portion of that hollow pass through hex nut is broken off in the body of the carb. The "good" news is that it appears to be plastic so I should be able to cut it out around the edges to remove it. Thanks for noticing that!!!
 
I think killer?s got it. That nut is actually a hollow bolt, the threads of which are still in the carb body. Before you attempt to remove the other one from carb 2, get some PB blaster or other penetrating oil soaking in there for a while.

WBhtHTih.jpg

I put some penetrating oil in it and am letting it sit. As I mentioned in the response to KILLER it's plastic and the oil said "safe on plastic"....we'll see. Thanks Rich.
 
I put some penetrating oil in it and am letting it sit. As I mentioned in the response to KILLER it's plastic and the oil said "safe on plastic"....we'll see. Thanks Rich.
The nut if broken off can be finessed out with a pick on an angle to make it rotate.
It is nylon no heat also be aware that fine dust migrates into the plunger housing slurry from rainwater on the road.
 
SUCCESS!!! Thanks to everyone for their help!!! Cipher that was a great suggestion using a pick to slowly rotate the broken end out. Also thanks to Rich and Killer for all their help. Your time and advice is greatly appreciated. Here is a video update for you guys: https://youtu.be/eKww_gKp6sE

Paul & Luke
 
I am following this thread. I have a low mileage 86 GS550ES. When I saw your post, I went to the garage to look at my choke cable, the left side choke cable plunger was also cracked off_with the threaded part still in the left carb. Are you going to replace the entire cable or just the plunger? I ordered both but could not find a Suzuki plunger, but did find this aftermarket_plunger set. I am not sure how to "sync" both cables to each of the two carbs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3631435580...rentrq:3dd0077717a0a77d17d0cde3ffec6843|iid:1
asset.php
 
I am following this thread. I have a low mileage 86 GS550ES. When I saw your post, I went to the garage to look at my choke cable, the left side choke cable plunger was also cracked off_with the threaded part still in the left carb. Are you going to replace the entire cable or just the plunger? I ordered both but could not find a Suzuki plunger, but did find this aftermarket_plunger set. I am not sure how to "sync" both cables to each of the two carbs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3631435580...rentrq:3dd0077717a0a77d17d0cde3ffec6843|iid:1
asset.php

Hi Corvette95: It's nice to find another 1986 GS550ES owner that I can compare notes with. I am just going to replace the plunger which I had not looked it up yet so thanks for the link. I don't think syncing them is necessary in my case. I think just replacing them when I re-install the carbs is just a matter of feeding it into the carbs and screwing it back in. Looks like it is an easy swap (famous last words). I did a short video for you to see what is involved. https://youtu.be/GSdbQXKyZII Let me know if you need anything else.
 
Hi Corvette95: It's nice to find another 1986 GS550ES owner that I can compare notes with. I am just going to replace the plunger which I had not looked it up yet so thanks for the link. I don't think syncing them is necessary in my case. I think just replacing them when I re-install the carbs is just a matter of feeding it into the carbs and screwing it back in. Looks like it is an easy swap (famous last words). I did a short video for you to see what is involved. https://youtu.be/GSdbQXKyZII Let me know if you need anything else.
Single cable routes from bar lever to a place under fuel tank where it is mechanically joined in a small plastic case to two cables that terminate at the plungers.
There's no synching as such in that the two end bits are shortish and subject to minimal stretch.
 
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