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1995 gsx600f head swap question

  • Thread starter Thread starter davebgs850l
  • Start date Start date
D

davebgs850l

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First I should start with the story I picked up a 95 gsx for cheap looking to make a buck on it. I could only start it by spraying gas in the air filter I have all that fixed no more than a few vacume leaks. But their was a bolt broke off in the exhaust and I'm looking to get top dollar considering it holds 195 pounds of compression. The problem is when I went to extract the bolt the extractor broke off in the head witch is entirely my fault I did not get the head hot enough. But this is my question I have been doing some research and I noticed the head gasket is the same from 1988 till 2006 can I take a head from a 98-06 and bolt it on this bike? I know a lot of you race so you would be the first ones to know.
 
Unless someone knows a trick to remove a broken extractor a titanium matco drill bit won't even scratch it
 
davebgs850l said:
First I should start with the story I picked up a 95 gsx for cheap looking to make a buck on it. I could only start it by spraying gas in the air filter I have all that fixed no more than a few vacume leaks. But their was a bolt broke off in the exhaust and I'm looking to get top dollar considering it holds 195 pounds of compression. The problem is when I went to extract the bolt the extractor broke off in the head witch is entirely my fault I did not get the head hot enough. But this is my question I have been doing some research and I noticed the head gasket is the same from 1988 till 2006 can I take a head from a 98-06 and bolt it on this bike? I know a lot of you race so you would be the first ones to know.
Click to expand...


Seems getting a new head would cut into the profit margin a tad, + all the gaskets.
I never tried welding another bolt to the broken one, but people here say it's possible.
If the extractor broke off "centered", maybe some tiny cobalt bits drilled patiently around the extractor would help free it.
Then try a left handed bit where the extractor was if it was deep enough. Kroil or PB Blaster on the threads.

I bought a cheap bike recently too, cheap because one cam cover bolt was broken.
I used a center punch and cobalt bit to start. The bit wandered off center due to the way the bolt snapped.
I drilled about 1/4", then tried a left hand bit. The submerged remnant screw rose up outta the hole and all original threads were intact.
 
The old bolt can be EDM'ed to remove. Not cheap, but cheaper than buying an unknown head I suspect.

BTW, there are ways to avoid breaking off header bolts. Use a 1/4" drive short handle ratchet wrench after applying liberal amounts of PB blaster and heat. If the bolt doesn't want to turn one way try the other. Work it back and forth until you get it to crack loose. Then apply more PB Blaster and keep working the bolt. Eventually you will get it out. And never use EZ Outs on anything unless you are highly experienced with them.
 
davebgs850l said:
Unless someone knows a trick to remove a broken extractor a titanium matco drill bit won't even scratch it
Click to expand...

There was a thread here recently where a member used a "burr" to chew away a broken extractor - just cannot seem to find that thread for you right now.

EDIT: Found the thread - see post #78. http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...from-exhaust-bolt-thread/page3&highlight=burr

Re-read the thread, and see it was actually a tap that had broken off in the hole, and not an extractor.
 
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I just got through using most of a day trying to get a broken easy out of the ZX-6 engine my boss bought off eBay. Of course out of all the pics in the ad there was not a single pic of the broken bolt. At first I thought it was just a broken bolt, which is also used for the frame slider. After trying to grind the bolt flat so I could drill out the center, I hit it with a center punch and the center sunk about a half a millimeter and looked like you could put an allen wrench in it. It was a broken of extractor or easy out. "Easy out", what a lousy name that is. Well I did as described by Carter Turk. Once I finally cleared out enough room to use a punch to get the piece moving and out, I flattened the rest as much as possible, but I had to go a bolt size bigger which was an option with that, but you may need to do the same thing and use a Time-Sert or Helicoil, so you can still use the normal size bolt or stud.
180124_0001_zpssruvbut1.jpg~original

180124_0002_zpsbhyqd5ok.jpg~original
 
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two things...
It's always easier to weld onto a broken bolt or stud if it's visible. ALWAYS.

The early 750 head - G or H will drop on. Compression will be down as the chamber is bigger - but so are the valves...
 
Thanks for the input I agree with the head being a expensive swap I'm going to try a # 42 drill bit around and put a over sized stud for a f150 witch has a 8mm stud and is 9mm on the head side. The reason why I wanted to do the head swap was because the 95 get uses tappets and the newer models use adjustable rockers it cost me a hundred dollars just to adjust my valves on my 850 not including gaskets. Just easier for the next owner
 
Carbide burr in a angle die grinder and a steady hand will do the trick. Works for me anyways.

As stated, "easy-out" is the extreme last resort. I will often not even bother, just drill out the broken bolt and heli-coil to save the frustration, especially with smaller bolts less than a 10 mm.
 
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