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1st time chain replacement questions

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Guest

Guest
1985 GS550L.

I've removed the rear wheel, the sprocket looks OK, but I'm planning on replacing it (along with the tire).

Removed the front sprocket, needs replacing, worn kinda funny.

The chain seems to be bent in one spot, so that's gotta go too.

My question, how the heck do you remove the chain from the bike?? Is there some sorta master link to remove, or do I have to "break" it apart?

Of course, the next obvious question is, how is a new chain installed ?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I've not ever done this before. Also, does anyone have any recomendations as to chain/sprocket brands & suppliers?

Thanks,

Mike
 
You have to push out a pin, or cut the chain off with a cutting disc. To install the new chain you can either use a master link, which uses a clip (easiest solution), or get a chain "peening" tool.

I like the RK X-ring chains - best value I could find in a quality chain - about $65 from http://www.mawonline.com/rk.htm#Chains

BTW, your bike takes a 530 chain.
 
Last edited:
I'm a fan of JT steel sprockets with an RK or DID chain X ring chain. The easiest way to break the chain is with a chain breaker tool. If you go this route, make sure to grind down the pin on the link you want to break before using the chain breaker tool, this will keep the chain breaker tool itself from breaking. :) I'd recommend using a rivet master link, as I've had a couple of scary moments (picture a chain whipping by your leg at 40 MPH when the clip master link comes apart) from using the clip type, YMMV. On the other hand, I've NEVER had a rivet master break on me.

The rivet master link requires a special tool to join it, the RK or Motion Pro tools are recommended. http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/102321/-rk-pro-chain-breaker-and-rivet-tool-kit.html

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=382

Here's a great video on how to break a chain and install a new rivet master.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlNHt3MkZb0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgH6QyB6KXw
 
well if your bike is stock, as in you've (or anyone) has never changed the original sprocket sizes, then you can most likely find the chain size for your bike. If its been buggered with, you'll have to do some math. For the moment lets assume that she's stock. You'll need to look up your model of bike with a parts supplier, (i happen to use the dennis kirk catalogue just cos its easy and they have lots of parts suppliers available, so generaly SOMEONE will have your chain size.)

The one thing about alot of these older bikes is you may plan on spending quite a bit on the chain depending on how hard you want to hunt for it and it's availability. For instance, on my KZ440, I just wanted a simple chain. No o-ring, no sealed chain, none of that, just a regular old chain. Well no body had it in that type. SO i had to buy an expensive one, or wait 2-3 wks for shipping. Heh

Anyway, when looking for your chain, you're going to need to obviously know the make and model of your bike. The more you know about it the more accurate your chain is going to be. If there were different variants of the GS550 (like the 750 had the B,E,G,GL etc) you'll want to know that in case the chain/sprocket length/type changed over the years or from one model to another.

Example: My 77 GS750B OEM chain was a 630x96 (630=chaintype/96=length) . Sweet,so i know that. Problem is only one or two companies even make big old 630 chains anymore and they're sealed/oring types which could cost me a 150 bucks or more. Most companies suggest converting to a 530chaintype and offer a suggestion for the sproket size to accomodate the change.

So if you know your chain size and type and its available its pretty simple. Somewhere along the chain they'll be a master link with a clip that goes from rivet head to rivet head. Look for it, you'll see it, looks different from all the other links. pop it off and remove the master link and thereya go. Keep that master link. Usually the new chain will come with a new master link, but i always hang on to em just in case. When your new chain comes, you will most likely have to loosen your chain adjusters on the rear axle and push your rear wheel forward for the chain to reach. Over time they stretch and adjustment after adjustment suddenly it looks like there's no way the new chain will ever fit. But it will.

If you dont know your chain size and type..yikes, its not tough but not easy to explain...see where she sits for now, and lemme know :)

Hope it helps....

TCK
 
As you can see, there are many solutions to your problem, but lets go back and answer your question:
hikermikem said:
My question, how the heck do you remove the chain from the bike?? Is there some sorta master link to remove, or do I have to "break" it apart?
Click to expand...
The original chains were "endless" and had no master links. The factory's intent was to provide a stronger chain (without a weaker, master link) and, in the event of replacement, remove the swingarm from the bike to replace the chain.

Removing the swingarm might not be a bad idea, just so you can check the bushings/bearings to make sure they are still in good shape. It does not take much slack in the swingarm bearings to allow the rear wheel to move around, making the handling quite interesting. :shock:


.
 
One more question...

One more question...

Thanks for all the responses - I've one more question:

After I'd removed the cover to get to the front sprocket, there was a long pin sticking out from the engine side. I assume that must be to activate the clutch. My question is, can I just pull it out (so i don't lose it), or will I screw something up inside if I remove it? Just trying to be cautious here, sorry if this is a stupid question.

I'll follow up with my "final chain replacement" selection after i digest all the info.

Thanks,

mike
 
"there was a long pin sticking out from the engine side. I assume that must be to activate the clutch."

That would be correct, the pin just slides in and slides out - no harm, no foul in pulling it out. Just make sure that the clutch cable mechanism on the cover slides over the pin when you reassemble
 
Mark whiz said:
"there was a long pin sticking out from the engine side. I assume that must be to activate the clutch."

That would be correct, the pin just slides in and slides out - no harm, no foul in pulling it out. Just make sure that the clutch cable mechanism on the cover slides over the pin when you reassemble
Click to expand...


OK, good. Thank you very much - can't be too carefull!!

I've just ordered new sprockets (front & rear), and a new 530 chain from Z1. Those guys are really GREAT to deal with.

Thanks again - I'll let you'll know when i'm back on the road.
 
Update...

Update...

Changed out the front & rear sprockets and chain. All my funny noises went away. I also put a new rear tire on while I had the wheel off, and repacked the wheel bearing in the sprocket hub.

Bike runs great!! Back on the road again!
 
hikermikem said:
Changed out the front & rear sprockets and chain. All my funny noises went away. I also put a new rear tire on while I had the wheel off, and repacked the wheel bearing in the sprocket hub.

Bike runs great!! Back on the road again!
Click to expand...

Glad you're back on the road and everything is working well. :)

What type of master link did you get?
 
I went with the clip style - I didn't want to buy the installation tool for the rivet type link; it cost more than the chain did!

What a pain in the a$$ to put that clip on! I finally used a 6" C-clamp over top of a 1/4-20 nut, to press the outer link plate over each pin. Worked very well, but I'm embarrassed to tell you how much time I wasted trying to squeeze that link together with vise-grips.

I also put a performance tire (Dunlop GT501) on the rear of my "L" model cruiser. Looks a bit odd, but it's a very good "V" rated tire & it was on sale. I'll put the same on the front next Spring.
 
did you loosen the chain adjuster in back?? Ive never had that hard of a time with it..tho if your old chain was that stretched you's really be suprised how far forward that wheel had to be moved back up.

glad to hear youre rollin again!!

tck
 
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