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#2 still dead.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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My #2 cylinder is still cold. It must not be getting fuel.

I posted earlier about not having spark. I had gone with automotive radio suppression accel wires. I got new solid core wires and B8ES plugs. When I took the wires off I found that the reason I had weak spark was becouse the wire was not pushed into the coil all the way.

I wen't back to the solid core wires any way instead of keeping the accel wires on. Now the spark on all are hot and blue.

Unfortunately #2 did not wake up. Is the #2 carb the only logical place to look from here? I have been through all of the carbs many times, and cant find any problems. I wish I had another #2 carb body. I could try swaping them out to see if it helped.
 
If you have been running the engine and you take out the #2 plug is it wet with fuel or dry? Is the plug gap correct? 0.6 to 0.7 mm.
 
I'll have to check the gap.

I'll have to check the gap.

I'll have to check the gap. I think it may be dry. It looks really clean.

I had a thought that the diaphram might be in question. I took #1 and #2 diaphrams and swaped them. Both slides were wet when I pulled them. I think this means that the main bore is getting fuel to them right? I'll have to check the plug again to see if its wet when I check the gap. Of course I'll run it again first.
 
Well the plug looks like its running now.

Well the plug looks like its running now.

Are the center pipes just prone to being cooler than the outer ones?

I backed out the #2 air/mix screw to 3 full turns out. This is where it was when I first pulled the stoppers. Now I get that good chocklate color on the plug. The pipe still doesn't get hot though.

#1 is running rich. I have that air/mix screw down to 1/2 a full turn. Its still rich. I think I may need to take it for a ride. I think #1 may be oil fouling. Hopefuly a good hour or two romp will clear that up.

I keep checking the spark. All are still blue + I get the piss zapped out of me when I hold the plug boot in my hand and let another body part get too close to the bike.
 
In my old gs650gt I had this problem twice... the reasons were

1) leaking fuel petcock diaphragm (vacuum hose is connected to #2 cyl carb)

2) burnt #2 exhaust valve
 
No no no.

No no no.

No no no. I am in valve denial. I don't want to go thier you cant make me.

Just kidding. The petcock is good since the rebuild. Is a compression test in order? I did it once but the bike was not warmed up. I got 135 on all 4 cyl. I'll be doing it again warmed up to see if I get the right results.

What is the best way to determine the valve conditon?

Comp test, Valve shim clearance check, or peek at it some other way? I did peek at the valves through the plug hole. I pulled all the plugs and looked in while turning the back tire. All of them made an appearance so I'm sure they are not stuck. But I know that doesn't mean they are working fine. Does burnt valve mean stuck, or can I see this while the valve is open?
 
yes, I also think a broken valve is the last suspect... it's quite easy to hear when there are only 3 cyls running. and the compression test would give a significantly different reading (my case: 9.0-0.0-10.0-9.5).

so, back to the basics: there's either no spark or no fuel in #2 cyl. or way too much fuel.

for a start:

is there a spark? (I remember there was...?)

if the fuel petcock has been rebuilt (for sure: after test run see that the vacuum hose is dry and there's no gasoline smell...)

is there fuel in the #2 carb? is the #2 carb float stuck? (this can be checked by unscrewing the plug in the bottom of the float bowl)
 
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