#3 cylinder pipe cold and oil leaking from #3 cylinder

[suziman]

Follow the factory method to adjust the valves. They adjust in pairs so that two adjacent valves are on the base circle at the same time, that way the adjacent valve isn't depressed and pushing up on the cam, skewing it in the journal clearance.

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I really appreciate the details about how to do it right man!!

 

[suziman]

If your#3 plug is gassy, the petcock diaphragm has failed and extra fuel is entering the carb

Oil running down #3 is most likely failed tach drive seals

tach drive seals?
Where would that be located Big T?

 

[suziman]

If your#3 plug is gassy, the petcock diaphragm has failed and extra fuel is entering the carb

Oil running down #3 is most likely failed tach drive seals

should I buy a compression test or and check that do you think? if it's oil
thanks

 

[suziman]

The problem with trying to set them all to 0.08mm is that you will need a selection of "X" shims, as well a the standard ones. Shims come in increments of 0.05mm, so technically, you don't change shims until they get below 0.03mm, then change the shim to get it to 0.08mm. The "X" shims are half-way between the standard shims, making it easier to fine-tune the clearances. As stated, many of us will run as loose as 0.10mm clearance. Ever so slightly noisier (but who can really tell?), ever so slightly less power (due to less valve opening), but the increase in adjustment interval is worth it.

Also note: as the miles add up, the seats will stop changing shape as quickly, so the interval will naturally increase. I have gone over 20,000 without needing to change any shims. Yeah, they got checked, but no adjustments were needed. That was when the engine had about 60,000 miles on it.

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Great info Steve, I will keep that in mind

 

[oldGSfan]

If it was running great, why replace the coils? And which coils did you buy? I had a bike with #3 cylinder cold and inop, and it was the no-name blue coil the PO had fitted. I had the originals in a box, put them on, and the bike ran perfectly after that. I also did a relay mod, which gained me 1V, giving very near battery voltage, maybe .1V less.

 

[suziman]

If it was running great, why replace the coils? And which coils did you buy? I had a bike with #3 cylinder cold and inop, and it was the no-name blue coil the PO had fitted. I had the originals in a box, put them on, and the bike ran perfectly after that. I also did a relay mod, which gained me 1V, giving very near battery voltage, maybe .1V less.

Thanks for your response oldGSman.
Changed coils because didn't know what else to check.They are stock ones I bought from eBay.
I don't really have knowledge of any elec background. Anyway, as I said, was running fine before I painted it and has been sitting now for about 3 _-4 mos. REplacement coils were tested at 4 ohms on all 4. Didn't change anything though.
I'm going to replace some valve shims and put back together to try other things

 

[suziman]

If your#3 plug is gassy, the petcock diaphragm has failed and extra fuel is entering the carb

Oil running down #3 is most likely failed tach drive seals

the oil actually is not running down the engine but coming out of between #3and #4 where the pipes connect

 

[Big T]

To answer your questions,

Pull the spark plugs and compare them. Is #3 dark and smells of gas?
Then, detach the vacuum line from the petcock, plug it and run the bike on Prime. Is the #3 working now?

The oil leak is most likely coming from the tach drive, or the valve cover gasket. There are holes in the fins on the cylinder head that can allow a leak in one area to appear in another area.
Decrease the oily area and spray it with foot powder. Let it dry up, start the engine and track where the oil appears.

If it is the tach drive leaking, consult a parts fiche and order the seals. Remove it ( not always easy) decrease, replace seals, regrease and reinstall

If it's the valve cover, clean both surfaces and use an OEM gasket. I prefer to seal * the gasket to the cover and grease the other side lightly. This makes it easy to install and later remove. Do not tighten the bolts past spec.

*I'm old school and use Gasgacinch for this

 

[oldGSfan]

The oil leak is most likely coming from the tach drive, or the valve cover gasket. There are holes in the fins on the cylinder head that can allow a leak in one area to appear in another area.

Agree on probability of tach drive leaking, many think it's a head gasket. I've gotten a few GS's oil tight with that fix. On the GS1100E there's also the sealing nut and o-ring on the cylinder studs at the front of the cam tunnel which is also mistaken for head gasket leak. I don't see those seals on the GS1000 tho.

 

[Rob S.]

Certainly sounds like a tach drive leak.