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33mm smoothbores

  • Thread starter Thread starter crazedfooter
  • Start date Start date
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crazedfooter

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so i have done some searches on jetting a gs1100 with 33 smoothbores. found some info on what i assume is jetting for a stock bike on the sudco website, my bike has yoshi(i believe) pipes and will have k and n air filters. anybody out there have a similar setup/a good idea of a starting point(even better the ending point:)

thanks all
nick
 
i have a 83 1100 esd with 33 smoothbores with a v&h pipe with race baffle in. mains are 135. pilots are 22.5 i believe. I'm not sure about needle height though and the screws are turned 1 turn out but i'm a little rich on idle. Also i have velocity stacks rather than pods so they probably flow slightly better
 
17.5 or 20 pilot jet - don't think a larger pilot will be necessary.

needle in the middle position (1 below middle is common)

mains from 127 ~ 142.5

good starting point for near sea level

33's don't idle very well and sometimes stall after coming to idle.
but no worries when you get to half throttle they work perfectly after fine tuning.
 
It is also important to have the float heights set correctly BEFORE you begin so that variable is removed. Ray.
 
further questions

further questions

So I have a few more questions, first, are there any good books or resources for smoothbore carb questions that may take care of some of my more basic questions without buggin you guys? started tearing into my smoothies to get em all cleaned up and realized, i know nothing about these carbs :-k.

my questions,

any special points to cleaning them, things to look for i might miss?

are the jets really plastic?? i found what appears to be a jet with 132.5 written on it, surprises me if thats the case.

looks like i hve 1.5 throttle valves so according to sudco im gonna need 2.0, anybody found otherwise before i order em?

what is the correct float height for these carbs? i read one post that spoke of 25, is that gasket removed? is that correct?

what about the bearings in the carbs, ok to dip in carb dip and then regrease or is there a better way?

sorry if these questions are basic thanks for all your help so far, bike is almost all back together just the carbs, brakes and some small misc. stuff to go, everything is at the paint shop. its getting close!:D

nick
 
Jets are brass. The carbs you have are getting rarer & more expensive when you find them. I recommend, if you aren't sure what you are doing, you send them to someone that does for the rebuild. Sudco used to have a Mikuni tuning manual but I'm not sure if it is still available or not. I have one & could help you out. If you want to call, my # is 714-356-7845. Ray.
 
Everything is hard/confusing until you spend the time to figure it out:). that being said I'm also smart enough to know what I don't know and when to ask for help. What my goal is, is to get as far as i can on my own while learning some new things along the way. If i get stuck I think i have a line on a local guy who may be able to help me out.

ordered the sudco mikuni manual, and also found another manual online to download, don't know if its any good as i haven't looked through it. really the smoothies look alot less complicated than the cv carbs i have rebuilt/cleaned i was surprised.

I will probably be giving you a call after i get the books and do a little reading, that way i will hopefully know the basics and will have more productive questions.

thanks,
nick
 
simple mechanical slide carbs. few more screws to adjust the needles over a CV type. other than that you prob. know the procedure. emphasis on float height and the pilot fuel and air bleed clarity.
plastic or brass main jets are available not to worry plastic works great too.

26 MM inner gasket surface gasket removed float height is good range... I have a drilled bowl plug with a hose attached to check fluid level. mating surface + or - a mm or 2, not more than that.

1.5 slide fine- just fine

don't go broke trying to make racing carbs into a set of street carbs. accept the flaws and faults of rich - lean- rich or lean - rich - lean or lean -lean-rich etc.. they are going to have 1 or more flat spots thru the rev range unless the weather never changes or you are a magician that knows more than I.

CVs' are the way to go for the smoothest street riding. (my expert opinion)
 
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If you go to Sudco.com then go to carburetor diagrams and then go to vm33 on the very bottom it shows a diagram of your carbs. Also, if you look on the bottom of the vm33 page you see a baseline for jetting for several bikes.
 
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