Im gonna strip the tank and start from scratch..I am pizzzzzed like no other and am done trying to unfluck this piece of schiet!!!!!
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4 1/2 year quest may be ending tomorrow
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
nvr2old
Forum Sage
Calm down, Chuck..
I didn't see a picture of your work, but a run is nothing to freak out about. If it's not too late..use the sanding block with 600. You want something that's gonna cut the run quickly. 800 might work, but anything finer and you'll have to sand too much and it will not remove the run and will affect the surrounding clear. People are always trying to not use something course enough to do the cutting. When you get it to the point that it's smooth..spray a few more coats of clear. Better to have a few, 3-4 coats of clear so you have some product to work with. To finish, start with 800, go to 1,000. then 1,500, then on to 2,000 before hitting it with a buffer. Start with something too fine and you'll be sanding the orange peel to death before it (if ever) smooths out. You just want each progressively finer sand paper to take out the sand scratches of the previous grit.
Take a deep breath..you can do this..
I didn't see a picture of your work, but a run is nothing to freak out about. If it's not too late..use the sanding block with 600. You want something that's gonna cut the run quickly. 800 might work, but anything finer and you'll have to sand too much and it will not remove the run and will affect the surrounding clear. People are always trying to not use something course enough to do the cutting. When you get it to the point that it's smooth..spray a few more coats of clear. Better to have a few, 3-4 coats of clear so you have some product to work with. To finish, start with 800, go to 1,000. then 1,500, then on to 2,000 before hitting it with a buffer. Start with something too fine and you'll be sanding the orange peel to death before it (if ever) smooths out. You just want each progressively finer sand paper to take out the sand scratches of the previous grit.Take a deep breath..you can do this..
Im done Larry. The tank is darker than the side panels and I just dont like anything about it. Its start over time. I have sanded the irst round down with 400 and then 800 ( the entire tank ) and reshot the silver metal flake base to "restart" once already. The tank need stripped to base metal and redone. I will not dick with it anymore today as I may well reach for the hammer and end the project on mass!!!!!!
You need to shoot everything at the same time or else they won't look the same. Plus, it's candy and you're trying to shoot it on only your second job for Pete's sake's!
It's not the end of the world. Strip it and start over if you don't like the results.
Or, get a 1/2 pint of normal red base coat and shoot that instead.
It's not the end of the world. Strip it and start over if you don't like the results.
Or, get a 1/2 pint of normal red base coat and shoot that instead.
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I am gonna do just that Dale. But first I need to get a price on more clear and color. I dont have enough of either left..and i also need to do the seat trim again. The whole deal is tryng to keep a consistant distance while trying to follow the tank contours and its really making me problems with runs and that foggy cloudy crap getting in it.
The dang tank has about 6 coats of pure crap on it now for god sakes!!!
The dang tank has about 6 coats of pure crap on it now for god sakes!!!
Would you like to borrow my Iwata?
I may not be able to even afford more paint and clear right now so its a dead in the water deal right now anyway. I need to not think about it anymore right now. I just get worked up and more frustrated with it all.
Good. That will give you enough time to make a proper booth so you don't get crap in the paint.
Its not getting crap in the paint Dale!!!!!!!! Its runs and bad distance control and its fuuuucking the finish up. The fogging is like trapped air mist in the clear...thats the best i can articulate it. I have gotten dust in anything. That and coupled with this huge assed tip on the gun isnt helping either.
I cant find a smaller tip and I dont have the money anyway so I will just stop where I am at till I can afford more supplies and a gun that has parts still available. Im almost tempted to solder the tip shut and use a micro bit and redrill it smaller.
I cant find a smaller tip and I dont have the money anyway so I will just stop where I am at till I can afford more supplies and a gun that has parts still available. Im almost tempted to solder the tip shut and use a micro bit and redrill it smaller.
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Well I am done due to financials........end of rant.
Been there...
Call me PLZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
https://www.tat-co.com/TranstarAuto...s/Z632-Paint-Defect-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf
Bubbles in the paint possibly from trapped solvent.
Needed pictures.
Wrong temp solvent/hardeners for the weather conditions. Humidity too high when painting or during drying. ??
Bubbles in the paint possibly from trapped solvent.
Needed pictures.
Stripped and will try again. Gotta learn somehow i guess. Got some primer on it as of now. I tried to take pics of the hazing but they didnt show well so i never posted them.
nvr2old
Forum Sage
I know how you feel, Chuck. Been there, too. All part of the learning experience. It's really hard to help diagnose problems when you can't be there to see the process and all the materials being used. There are SO many variables. Next time you spray your base and clear coats, try lessening the amount of fluid that your gun is shooting. Turn the lower/larger knob in another full turn or so, that will help with the larger tip that you have. The milkiness you describe is probably a combination of high humidity and as mentioned maybe a reducer that is drying too fast, Get some reducer that's about 10 degrees warmer then the air temperature you're spraying in and that should help..it'll stay wet a little longer. Don't worry so much about getting it so wet it runs on you. I know everyone, me including, wants the clear coat to be as smooth and glassy as possible to make final sanding easier, but it's not critical. You can always sand that little bit of orange peel out..way easier then sanding runs.
You couldn't have picked a harder type of paint to try on your second go. It's bound to be frustrating. Mixing ratios have to be right on the money and you have to know how much to spray on each pass to keep it consistent from part to part and constantly changing directions to keep it from tiger striping on you. There's a real "feel" to it that only comes from doing it, maybe screwing it up, learning from it, and doing it again. Expensive lessons for sure..this sh-t ain't cheap.
I agree with Dale. I'm absolutely positive that you can get a red base coat that will be very close to the candy. Ford and Chrysler both make reds that will be much easier to spray.
You couldn't have picked a harder type of paint to try on your second go. It's bound to be frustrating. Mixing ratios have to be right on the money and you have to know how much to spray on each pass to keep it consistent from part to part and constantly changing directions to keep it from tiger striping on you. There's a real "feel" to it that only comes from doing it, maybe screwing it up, learning from it, and doing it again. Expensive lessons for sure..this sh-t ain't cheap.
I agree with Dale. I'm absolutely positive that you can get a red base coat that will be very close to the candy. Ford and Chrysler both make reds that will be much easier to spray.
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They gave him an all temp reducer. 
Side covers and front fender look amazing. Nice even looking tone across the parts when laid side by side. I will snap a pic of whats done so far later today.
Just got off the phone with Chuck. He was gifted some mid coat red and another gun. He's blocking the tank right now and checking the P sheets to see how long the base coat he sprayed on the tail section is open for. Wish him the best in this his newest endever.
Very lightly sanded the primer with 600 and from what i can see there isnt any bubbles or showing defects. I will again take a very very close look in the morning before proceeding. Too hot to do anything else now so its wait.
Based on the tech sheet i should be okay with the tail / seat trim piece if I can get to it before around noon. I want to do the seat trim and tank at the same time so they have the best chance of being matched..which is where the eye is gonna register the most when looking at a bike. Seems the first thing noticed is the tank!!
Based on the tech sheet i should be okay with the tail / seat trim piece if I can get to it before around noon. I want to do the seat trim and tank at the same time so they have the best chance of being matched..which is where the eye is gonna register the most when looking at a bike. Seems the first thing noticed is the tank!!
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