Hmm .. maybe I need to be more detailed. The pilot jets (idle circuit, yes?) were a few sizes larger than stock. Bike fouled plugs quickly at idle when I bought it, AND when it sat and idled, raw fuel would drip out rapidly, almost pour, where the airbox boot and carbs come togethor. Obviously there were no clamps on the boot/back of carb joint, and the extra fuel was not being drawn in at idle...hence the leak.
I hope this makes sense, and if not will be good for a quick chuckle! Ha!
Jason
It doesn't make sense cause that's not how they work brother.
Fuel is metered into the float bowls of the carbs by a float valve. It works much like your toilet tank does. Gravity and air pressure, combined with vacuum draw of the motor allow fuel to pass from the tank into the float bowls. When the fuel reaches a certain level, the float valve closes and the fuel flow essentially stops, or slows at least. Just like your toilet. The pilot jets in your carbs are actually fed through the main jet, and emulsion tube. (were you to open them, there would be, or should be, a rubber cap covering the actuall pilot jet. If not, you'll want to remedy that)
Now, even if the jet was massively too large, it may foul the plugs, but the float valves "should" prevent overflow of gasoline. If you've got that much gas leaking, you've got either shot float valve needles, leaking Oring around the valve seat (which since you said they've never been replaced, is likely) or a bad petcock, or all three. The performs equipt from the factory are designed only to flow when the motor is turning over, unless they're on the "prime" position (it flows freely then). If the petcock is bad, it may flow gas all the time. Try as they might, even float valves in perfect shape cannot hold back the pressure from a tank full of gas. They'll give up, and the gas will over flow into your crankcase. Which is bad as gas will wash the cylinder walls and crank bearings of oil, leaving metal on metal contact. I'm sure you know that isn't good.
I'd suggest, as has been already, tearing the carbs down, replacing the Orings after properly cleaning them, and replacing your 30 year old petcock with new. (rebuilds fail more than they succeed and are a waste of money...buy new a d don't worry about it for another 20 years)
The carb rebuild tutorial by Nessism and many others is quite comprehensive and thorough, and while daunting at first, they're quite easy to rebuild. Just be organized and thorough. Once you've done it, you'll be amazed at how easy it will be to get the bike to perform as it should.
There are no shortcuts brother. They end up being the long way around. And motorbikes are a lot like airplanes. When something fails, it's generally painful, and possibly fatal. If ya need some help, shoot me a PM, I'll pass ya my number and can talk you through as much as I can. Anything to help.
And to answer your question:
I absolutely LOVE my ZRX. Its everything I love about GSes, but better brakes, suspension and rubber. Oh, and a wee bit more power helps
Like a good friends brother used to tell him: you don't need 100+ horsepower to have fun on a bike......but it helps.
