530 gearing ?

[tom]

well last year ran best of 11.16 @11.18 mph with 15 /42 gearing with stock 1100 motor with rs36 thinking of trying 15/47 or 15/48 what do you think

 

[Nessism]

I don't know crap about drag racing but what rpm are you pulling through the traps?

 

[Agemax]

at 11.18MPH i would suggest you have it severely over geared!!!!!! (just kidding, lol)

 

[Steve]

As I understand it, your goal is to be right at redline in top gear as you cross the finish line.

If you were not yet at that point, add a tooth or three to the rear sprocket. Repeat as necessary.

We have several racers on the forum, I'm sure if they see this, they can speak from experience.

.

 

[Guest]

Tom,
If you have a 530 set up then 15/42 is to tall for the drag strip. I was at 15/48 when I ran a 10.62 @ 124 mph with my stock GS motor. This weekend I going to run with a 15/45 set up this weekend to see if it works any better. If it works better then I am going to go to try a 17/50. which is what I think will work best but my 17t countershaft won't be here in time for this weekend. I want to go with the 17 countershaft for 2 reasons one being it is the same diameter as the 15 in a 630 and it will allow the chain to have more clearance around the swingarm. The 17/48 is equal to stock gearing.
Come on down to South Georgia and play with us at the all bike race at SGMP

 

[tom]

hey ill txt you pics of the gunfighter seat im building be done painting the tail in about ten minutes .see if you can post up . would love to go to GA cant take time off work .working union butt might get laid of by aug or sept then ill have time

 

[Guest]

Tom,
I think I have an extra 530 48t rear sprocket for the GS and early GSXR wheels that I am not using right now so if you want to try it before you buy one

 

[tom]

sure thanks . the track is open at newEngland dragway today but the high is 48 deg think asphalt to dam cold . think ill try around the end of April.

 

[trippivot]

I like to convert to the numerical ratio and work off of that. 630/530/520/428 that puts all the chain sizes on equal reference-
divide driven by drive. ie; 15/45 is 3.0 to 1

a stock liter GS engine (2 or 4 valve) will run all out in the quarter at 3.5 but good luck launching it without wheelie bars. this is where the compromise begins MPH-VS-ET.

 

[tom]

closes i can get is 15/52 = 3.47 or 16/56 =3.50 i will try it

 

[verticalroll]

I am using my 750 on street and track (road course) can someone help me on changing the gearing for the 530 pitch vx the 630. need around 140 mph at red line top gear. what do you think???? Can the sprocket from Z1 18 front work on the 78' GS 750's

 

[posplayr]

As I understand it, your goal is to be right at redline in top gear as you cross the finish line.

If you were not yet at that point, add a tooth or three to the rear sprocket. Repeat as necessary.

We have several racers on the forum, I'm sure if they see this, they can speak from experience.

.

Actually the goal is to get to the finish line in the shortest time.

 

[verticalroll]

You are correct however, you do not want to run out of gear on the straights. 1/4 mile drag is not my thing so I need a taller gearing. any help please, maybe a 2 teeth lower from std on the 78 630 but need 530 chain and sprocket

 

[Guest]

I am using my 750 on street and track (road course) can someone help me on changing the gearing for the 530 pitch vx the 630. need around 140 mph at red line top gear. what do you think???? Can the sprocket from Z1 18 front work on the 78' GS 750's

Your stock gearing converted to 530 is a 17/47. When converting to 530 set up I like to keep the counter shaft close to the same diameter. The 15T 630 counter shaft sprocket is the same diameter as a 530 17T sprocket. If you do this you will retain all the original chain clearances. To figure your correct gearing you would need to make some practice passes to see where your top speed is now your stock gearing 15/41 in the 630 allowed your bike to top out at 125 mph and I am not sure that the stock bike was pulling it to red line in 5th gear at that 125 mph so to get to your goal of 140 should be real with just a few mods which you might have already done. Every tooth you change you rear sprocket will effect your top speed by about 2.5 to 3 mph. To set up your bike gearing for what you are wanting to do I would start with the stock gearing 17/47 and see what the bike does for top speed and how it still drives out of the corners. Because every time you change the rear sprocket you change how the bike drives out of the corners also not just the top speed. So you want to find a happy middle ground between your 140 mph back stretch speed and good pull out of the corners. When you have been racing for awhile you will end up with a 16,17T countershaft sprockets and a 45, 46, 47,T rear sprockets. Just one gear ratio is just not going to work for all tracks or all bikes what mods have been done matter a lot or all riders. Rider riding style matter big time.
I do some drag racing and I have a 14, 15, 16, 17T counter shaft sprockets and 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, and 52T rear sprockets for my bikes to get the correct gearing for each bike and motor build. I am lucky that all my bikes use the same sprocket bolt patterns except for my Bandits with the GSXR1000 wheels and the one with a Busa wheels they use the same pattern as each other. The GS 1100/1150 bikes use the same bolt pattern as the Suzuki Bandit 1200 just not the same gear ratio. I am not sure what the swap is for your model is but Z1 should be able to hook you up.

.

 

[CivilRock]

Actually the goal is to get to the finish line in the shortest time.

This is an interesting statement.

Yes, in road racing, you want the bike right at or under redline at the end of the longest straight in top gear. You don't want to be bouncing off the limiter as bikes are going by you, and you don't want to be geared unnecessarily high for starts. Assuming that doesn't totally wreck your gearing choice for some other corner.

But drag racing? I would assume you'd want as low of gearing as you could get away with because the launch is so important. On the other hand, if you're wheelieing hard, or shifting too early, I can see how this could slow you down.

I have a 530 setup with a 17 tooth front and a 48 or 45 rear. I ran the 48 with my 1100 motor and did a 11.5 at 118. But I have no idea what my RPM was across the line. I have the 17/48 still on the bike. I also have a 190/70-17 rear.

I thought the 1100 and 1150 transmissions are the same ratios. True?
Am I going to hit the redline before I cross the line?

I guess I can take the 45 tooth rear and some wrenches with me.

-Kevin

 

[blowerbike]

1150 ratio is different by 2 teeth.
the 1150 has 89 teeth on the basket.
the 1100 has 87 teeth.
ideal situation is crossing the stripes at max hp/rpm whether is be in 4th or 5th gear.
on a drag bike then you would want max hp/rpm in 5th when crossing the stripes.
it is quite simple but quite difficult to figure what you need unless you spend every free minute at the drags testing.
i used to go 3-4 times a week depending on the track schedules and if they overlapped with each other.
i am lucky enough to have 3 tracks all within an hour of me.

 

[posplayr]

This is an interesting statement.

Yes, in road racing, you want the bike right at or under redline at the end of the longest straight in top gear. You don't want to be bouncing off the limiter as bikes are going by you, and you don't want to be geared unnecessarily high for starts. Assuming that doesn't totally wreck your gearing choice for some other corner.

But drag racing? I would assume you'd want as low of gearing as you could get away with because the launch is so important. On the other hand, if you're wheelieing hard, or shifting too early, I can see how this could slow you down.

I have a 530 setup with a 17 tooth front and a 48 or 45 rear. I ran the 48 with my 1100 motor and did a 11.5 at 118. But I have no idea what my RPM was across the line. I have the 17/48 still on the bike. I also have a 190/70-17 rear.

I thought the 1100 and 1150 transmissions are the same ratios. True?
Am I going to hit the redline before I cross the line?

I guess I can take the 45 tooth rear and some wrenches with me.

-Kevin

I chose to state the obvious rather than try over simplified analysis of a complex problem. People with first hand knowledge would have better handle on that. Whoever I could probably figure it out with some test data and a little model


Here is a little puzzle. If you have an electric car and one gear and no drag, what defines the optimum gear ratio to fastest ET? Keep it simple a constant max torque motor output.

 

[CivilRock]

1150 ratio is different by 2 teeth.
the 1150 has 89 teeth on the basket.
the 1100 has 87 teeth.

:-k So the 1150 is geared lower? - hope I'm saying that right. As in the 1150 will be turning slightly more RPM than the 1100 given everything else is the same?

Here's my supermoto experience: KTM SMR450. Geared to go about 98mph for Euro Supermotard Racing. Our tracks here never got to more than 60-70 mph. I never used 6th gear in a race, and I would have to slip 1st gear sooooo long at the starts.

I finally geared way down and added a "holeshot" device. (It's a little button/clip that holds the front down until the first bump) I went from starting mid pack to starting in the top 3. I still hardly ever used 6th gear, but the lower first gear helped a ton on the starts.

IDK if that lesson translates to a bike that weighs 2x as much with 1/3 the suspension. Maybe it's me.

I'm trying to get a hall pass to go to the strip tonight and see if 4 months of work on my bike will net me lower times. I'd hate to get there and have to turn up my rev limiter just to make it across the line.

BTW, what is a safe limit on a stock 1150? I have it set at 9500, which I thought was the tach redline (which I don't have), but my builder buddy said 11,000.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[CivilRock]

Here is a little puzzle. If you have an electric car and one gear and no drag, what defines the optimum gear ratio to fastest ET? Keep it simple a constant max torque motor output.

1:1 with the motor attached directly to the wheel. I think the gearing would be the only losses in power.

I love this question.

But if the motor had a speed limit, wouldn't you want to want to gear it down as far as you could until you were at the motor's limit at the finish line?

Finish line wheel RPM = 2500
Electric motor max RPM = 10,000
Then gear ratio should be 4:1

That's my answer. You want to most leverage possible without blowing up the motor.

-kevin

 

[blowerbike]

10500 is safe RPM for the rev limiter on a stock engine.
and yes your saying it right....the 1150 engine is geared lower.