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530 vs 630

I need a link to explain how the X o-ring chains works. This is new to me. And do any vendors offer a kit with both sprockets and chain? This would also be a perfect time for changing my final drive ratio. thanks all...
 
Basically the chain is greased, and then sealed when the plates are pressed togther during manufacture. Dirt and water sealed out, grease sealed in. Look at Z-1, they sell complete kits. Actually better to call them, they have real people who know what they are talking about. A few are even members of this forum.
 
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one more time...

one more time...

the difference between a standard O ring chain and a X O ring chain?????
 
the difference between a standard O ring chain and a X O ring chain?????

Cut across the o ring chain's ring, look at the end of the piece you cut, so you can see the cross section. The end of the o rings are round in cross section. Just like a tiny donut. The x rings are shaped like an X. It makes them operate with less friction, so less rolling resistance on the chain going down the road. Also it acts as a separate oil seal and dirt/water seal, so the sealing aspect of it lasts a lot longer.
 
could feel the difference in throttle response

Really? Now you're talking my language! Now I'll consider it.

Are there any numbers (1/4 mile, top speed) that quantify the difference?

What's the weight advantage of a 530 set up over a 630 on an 1100EZ?
 
I will switch when my Skunk needs a new chain. No reason to while my 630 is still good. I hardly ride the Skunk anyway.
 
I need a link to explain how the X o-ring chains works. This is new to me. And do any vendors offer a kit with both sprockets and chain? This would also be a perfect time for changing my final drive ratio. thanks all...

http://www.didchain.com/streetChains.html





D.I.D's High Performance X-Ring? for Street Bikes
D.I.D X-RING? IS SUPERIOR TO OTHER TYPES OF O-RING DESIGNS
xRingStreet1.jpg
Half the Power Loss
(Compared with Normal O-Ring)
D.I.D?s PATENTED X-Ring construction reduces friction by twisting between the side plates instead of being squashed. Normal O-Rings and other makers? modified O-Rings have squashed points that increase friction. The twisting action of the X-Ring disperses the pressure and minimizes power loss.
X-Ring is a U.S.A. Registered Trademark of D.I.D; Daido Kogyo Co. Ltd. Japan1.5 to 2 TImes Longer Wear Resistance
(Compared with Normal O-Ring)

The X-Ring?s four contact points greatly increase its sealing performance. This keeps the dirt out and the lubrication in much better than any other O-Ring. X-Rings have the greatest wear resistance of any other type of O-Ring or Non-O-Ring chain.
frictionChart.jpg


wearChart.jpg


VXStreetChain.jpg

All New for 2012; D.I.D has merged our Professional O-Ring V Series and our top selling Premium X-Ring? VM Series into ?ONE? New Pro-Street X-Ring? VX Series. Created from the severe demands of today?s top World Superbikes, D.I.D is proud to introduce this New high performance VX Series. In developing this new series, D.I.D focused on improving ?Rigidity?. Traditionally, ?Tensile Strength? has been used to indicate the overall strength of a chain. But Tensile Strength is only a laboratory static measurement of a chain?s ?breaking point?. Rigidity, on the other hand, is the ability of a chain to withstand forces that occur in a rider?s real world experience. Increased rigidity means better power transfer from the engine to the ground and greater resistance to stretching under load. This translates into smooth handling and quicker response time. To maximize performance, D.I.D?s race proven X-Ring? design delivers overall improved performance that meets the demands of today?s high-performance machines. The VX Series is the ultimate in performance and durability, now available at a new low O-Ring Chain Price. VX Series Chains are available in 428VX, 520VX2, 525VX and 530VX sizes. D.I.D?s New PRO-Street X-Ring? VX Series Chains are a perfect match for your dual sport, sport bike or sport touring bike.
CHAIN
DISP. C.C.
MAIN FEATURE​

428VXMAX. 350 C.C.GREAT VALUE X-RING?520VX2MAX. 750 C.C.GREAT VALUE X-RING?525VXMAX. 900 C.C.GREAT VALUE X-RING?530VXMAX. 1000 C.C.GREAT VALUE X-RING?
Available in Gold and Black (unplated steel) or Black (unplated steel)


superStreetLogo.jpg

zvmxChains.jpg

Super Street Series X-Ring?
CHAIN
DISP. C.C.
MAIN FEATURE​
520ZVM-XMAX. 1200 C.C.SUPER STRONG/LONG LASTING525ZVM-XMAX. 1300 C.C.SUPER STRONG/LONG LASTING50(530)ZVM-XMAX. 1400 C.C.SUPER STRONG/LONG LASTING

Available in Gold Silver or Black (unplated steel)

D.I.D's engineers are continuously improving chain designs in order to handle the tremendous horse power loads of today's high performance motorcycles. D.I.D?s ZVM-X Super Street Series X-Ring? Chain was designed with better power transfer from the engine to the ground, greater resistance to stretching under load and overall improved performance that meets the demands of our current high-power, large displacement street bikes and the people who ride them.
 
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Other than for authenticity, there's not much of a reason to stay with the 630 chain these days.

As others have mentioned, 530 chain is very, very good these days. The wear, the tensile strength - all plenty good enough for 'busas and other high-powered bikes.

Nearly every bike shop will carry 530 chain, but most bike shops don't routinely carry 630 chain.

We do carry 630 chain - but typically will recommend converting to 530 where possible (there's a couple of Kawasaki models where the 530 conversion sprockets are not available).

With 530, there's many more color choices - everything from pink to neon green and more.
 
Yup, when I compared my old 630 to the new 530 set up, the weight difference was huge. Being that a new 630 chain just by itself was going to cost more then the complete 530 setup. Once I had installed the 530 set up the alignment was spot on and could feel the difference in throttle response as well. .....

Ditto...

PLUS: I converted my '81 750 last year from a 630 and a NYLON rear sprocket that I had installed in the early 80's. The new 530 on steel sprockets was QUIETER :D. Now I'm hearing noises I never new the bike was making before :rolleyes:.
 
Thanks, Tkent & Gatekeeper & Jeff @ Z-1 . This site has been a wealth of knowledge.
 
Really? Now you're talking my language! Now I'll consider it.

Are there any numbers (1/4 mile, top speed) that quantify the difference?

What's the weight advantage of a 530 set up over a 630 on an 1100EZ?

Seat of of my pants quantify my statement, less rotational mass and unsprung weight.
 
Weight savings equates to about 1lb of rotational mass on a GS1000 chain. Less driven weight, so a very small performance gain.
 
I don't think they even make x ring 630s.

I had "O" ring #630 on my 1150 for a couple of years. You may be right about X ring #630 not being made though. I don't remember ever seeing any.
 
I had "O" ring #630 on my 1150 for a couple of years. You may be right about X ring #630 not being made though. I don't remember ever seeing any.

They do make it - we sell it... RK 630 XW-Ring Chain. Just not many places stock it.
RK XW-Ring Chain
We are one of the few places that carry it.
 
I just got my 530 conversion "kit" from z1 yesterday. I've been reading up on how to replace everything, but I'm not sure how to figure out the proper length for the chain. Also, how does the chain clip work, there is some wire included, I'm not sure why.

I know the spacer goes on the outside of the small sprocket, but I think i read somewhere I should keep the bike in 1st so the shift linkage doesn't fall out. Is this true?

Any tips, tricks, or detailed instructions will be greatly appreciated.
 
I just got my 530 conversion "kit" from z1 yesterday. I've been reading up on how to replace everything, but I'm not sure how to figure out the proper length for the chain. Also, how does the chain clip work, there is some wire included, I'm not sure why.

I know the spacer goes on the outside of the small sprocket, but I think i read somewhere I should keep the bike in 1st so the shift linkage doesn't fall out. Is this true?

Any tips, tricks, or detailed instructions will be greatly appreciated.

Get your sprockets installed and snugged down, don't fully tighten them just yet. Push your rear wheel as far forward as you can on the swing arm and snug it down a little. Take your chain and wrap it over the sprockets. At the rear sprocket pull it where the rivets on the plates line up. You don't want the chain tight at this point, so move it back a link or two and see where your slack is at any point. Once you figure the slack you need to tighten correctly, take a chain breaker or grind off the rivet heads to remove the excess link(s). My chain was 118 links and I believe I removed 2 links, don't remember now.

Don't know about keeping the bike in gear so the shift linkage won't come out. Though I would place in gear once I got my chain ready to size it.

As far as the clip master link is concerned, you'll need a little tool to compress the outside side plate and orings onto the link so the clip fits on correctly. Don't use a pair of vise grips, it won't compress it far enough. Once you get the clip seating into the link grooves (make sure you got the clip facing the right direction of travel, dab a bit of silicone over the clip to help secure even more. Tighten up your sprockets according to the specs and adjust away on the chain to your manual specs.

Once you have everything buttoned down and tightened, rotate your rear wheel by hand and check your sprocket and chain alignment. Mine was spot on.
 
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