• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

630 o-ring vs 630. Which is better?

KEITH KRAUSE

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
Charter Member
I'm about to buy a new chain and I'm considering going to a regular chain than the stock/OEM o-ring chain. Over time, it seems like the o-rings contribute to the links kinking. I always keep the chain well lubed and properly slacked. I think the o-ring chain is supposed to be quieter and possibly run cooler. Have any of you switched to a regular chain? Any noticable difference?
One other thing, I've heard they are not making the 630 with a master clip any more. The clip is replaced with press fitted pins. You slide on the plate and using a tool, you spread the end of the hollowed out pins. I guess you can improvise with hand tools if you don't have the tool. I'm also guessing if you want to remove it, you just squeeze the pins back in and you can do this as much as you need to? Any of you installed these new master links yet?
 
Re: 630 o-ring vs 630. Which is better?

I've switched to standard #630 chain on my 1150 and standard #530 on my 750. I had the same problem as you with links getting stiff on the "O" ring type chains. I keep chains well lubed and run them a bit on the slack side and have not had any problems with the non "O" ring chains. I'm going to stay with the non "O" ring type. I'll be returning to the #630 chain size on the 750
when I wear out the #530 thats on it now. Although heavier, the 630 runs smoother than the #530 does.

Earl

KEITH KRAUSE said:
I'm about to buy a new chain and I'm considering going to a regular chain than the stock/OEM o-ring chain. Over time, it seems like the o-rings contribute to the links kinking. I always keep the chain well lubed and properly slacked. I think the o-ring chain is supposed to be quieter and possibly run cooler. Have any of you switched to a regular chain? Any noticable difference?
 
Re: 630 o-ring vs 630. Which is better?

KEITH KRAUSE said:
I'm about to buy a new chain and I'm considering going to a regular chain than the stock/OEM o-ring chain. Over time, it seems like the o-rings contribute to the links kinking. I always keep the chain well lubed and properly slacked. I think the o-ring chain is supposed to be quieter and possibly run cooler. Have any of you switched to a regular chain? Any noticable difference?
One other thing, I've heard they are not making the 630 with a master clip any more. The clip is replaced with press fitted pins. You slide on the plate and using a tool, you spread the end of the hollowed out pins. I guess you can improvise with hand tools if you don't have the tool. I'm also guessing if you want to remove it, you just squeeze the pins back in and you can do this as much as you need to? Any of you installed these new master links yet?

I haven't used a regular chain since I switched to o-ring chains 25 years ago...the difference in life between the two was so great I never went back to a non-o-ring chain.

I have a rivited masterlink on my bike now. I had the swingarm off, so I took the new chain to a local shop and had them rivit the master link. You can peen it yourself but I'm so inaccurate with a hammer I didn't want to mess up an link that was next to the masterlink.

Hap
 
Re: 630 o-ring vs 630. Which is better?

My opinion is a riveted masterlink has some big faults. I always wear out a tire or two (or more) before I wear out a chain and sprockets. Its a pain in the ass to break a riveted master and re peen a new one. It makes it very difficult to make a tire repair when on the road. Its also difficult to peen a link if on the road. (at least decently)

I have never broken, or had a masterlink clip come loose in 30+ years.

Earl



Hap Call said:
I have a rivited masterlink on my bike now. I had the swingarm off, so I took the new chain to a local shop and had them rivit the master link. You can peen it yourself but I'm so inaccurate with a hammer I didn't want to mess up an link that was next to the masterlink.

Hap
 
I always go for the endless chain option, its easy enough to get the rear wheel out without doing anything to the chain.
I saw a friend lose his chain once because the master link came undone :( thats why I don't use it
 
I have O-rings on both GSes....(they keep the oil inside the case)...and I never worry about them.
 
I'm for the non O ring also but maintenance is a must. My 1100 has a 630 O ring job and because i lube the dickens out of it i don't even remember the last time i had to adjust it. So ill never put down an O ring chain.
The question is what do you want to do with your bike. Some of us walk around with secret formula's for Cain lubes in special oil cans. It is a hobby and fanaticism will always be there. Just enjoy riding from time to time. Then use an O ring chain and follow the recommender lubrication.
Some of us run lots of HP over stock and never have chain trouble with a master link type. There is a right way and a wrong way to install one and also a right way and a wrong way to maintain any chain.

I just want even the slightest gain in HP That i can possibly get.
 
As was earlier stated. Shafties rule the agricultural implement arena. :-)
Shafties are great.......for those not mechanically inclined. :-) :-) :-)

Earl

focus frenzy said:
SHAFTIES RULE!!!!!!
 
I have used a non-oring 630 for the last 20,000km. Does not need much adjusting for the (lack) of milege I do these days, but I have a full chain case on. The oring chains would have cost twice as much at the time. I have had (cheap) oring chains wear out before this.

I don't have to break the chain to change a tyre...thats a new one on me!
 
Thanks for the replies. According to the local parts store, the clip style master links are being discontinued. I guess too many people have trouble installing the clip correctly and they fly off. The new master link has hollowed out pins. You slide the plate on and flare the end of the pins with a tool. I suppose you may still be able to buy a regular clip style master link and use it if you would rather? There may still be some chains that were shipped with the clip style master links too. At least 2 local stores only have the "newer" chains now.
Just because some bozo's can't install a clip correctly, this change is happening. :x I still don't know if this new style of link can be removed for cleaning and re-used. Guess I'll be finding out.
 
Keith: The tool for pinching the chain is pretty expensive. When I found out that my RK 530 had a riveted link I got the shop to put it together for me. You should have heard the pounding coming from the work shop! They gave the pins a beating you wouldn't believe. 8O I don't even know if you'd be able to push it apart at that link. You'd be better off removing another link but then you'd have a chain full of Rivetts and who wants that? :)

Cheers, Steve
 
The chain case is a Furlong (UK). It is made of fibreglass, so not as flash as some of the alloy and rubber factory jobs. I bought it back in 1982 or so. Looks a bit daggy I suppose, but it makes a big differencr if you ride in all weather or on dirt roads.
 
I've used both sorts of links, & I can honestly say that I've had no problems with either. When I fit the rivet masterlink type I get a freind to hold a lump-hammer behind the master link, then put a shallow point punch in the hollowed end of the pin and give it a sharp blow with a 2 pound hammer. If done correctly it only needs one blow to spread the rivet.
An "O"-ring chain will outlast a conventional chain if it is looked after correctly. Some penetrative chain lubes will destroy the rubber O-rings! The O-rings hold the chain grease inside the links, & keep dirt out.
A non O-ring type can (& probably will) get grit inside the link/joints and wear away from inside, but you can clean & then boil it in grease.
There again, O-ring chains cost more, so cost probably works out the same. It depends where you ride.
As Dom says, regular maintenance makes all the difference to a chain.
 
saaz said:
The chain case is a Furlong (UK). It is made of fibreglass, so not as flash as some of the alloy and rubber factory jobs. I bought it back in 1982 or so. Looks a bit daggy I suppose, but it makes a big differencr if you ride in all weather or on dirt roads.

I did a web search on it and could not find the company. I did find mention of it being used on a Honda CB750. I would love to get my hands on one...

Could you post some pictures?

Hap
 
I think it's just a deal between factory's and aftermarket company's to really stick it to the rider, Pay 50-100 dollars for an hour's worth of repair that should take 2 minutes to install a chain cause nobody wants to buy the special tool for a couple hundred bucks. Master links have been around sence the Monks invented beer. I have no problems with links or beer not unless it's hot links then I'll take two.

I Think
 
I have run both and found the O-ring to last much longer with the same maintenance (cleaning/lubing).

I am currently running an O-ring chain with a riveted master link. I never had problems on any other bike I've had loosing a master link but I had several clips for the O-ring chain that seemed extremely fragile as the would break while trying to squeeze them on and I had one break after about 3000 miles, which cause me to through the chain when the master link came loose and do some damage to the sprocket cover and case.

That's why I switched to a riveted chain. I have another chain and sprockets for my next change and am going to go to 530 chain and may try the clip style master links again.

Another option to consider is an X-ring chain. The stock chain on my Honda reflex was an X-ring and it lasted from 1986 to last year and saw a couple of years of street and dirt use and then 11 years of use as a dirt bike and trials competition use. I just change the chain and sprockets a few months ago. In the whole time I've owned it I regeared it from a 13 to a 9 tooth counter shaft for trials use and replace the 9 tooth once before the chain and sprocket replacement. I've never seen anything wear as well as it did.

Mike
 
For those who don't use o-ring chains, what conditions do you ride in? Rain? Dirt? I'm just curious to see if the non-o-ring chains, properly lubed will last a decent amount of time in less then perfect conditions.
 
I ride in rain a lot. About four months of the year, that is everyday at some time. Maybe about 1% of my riding is off road or in dirt. I dont enjoy stop and go city traffic, so possibly 10% of my milage for that. The other 89% is highway and almost all of that is at speeds between 65-100 mph. On the average, I ride a steady speed around 75-80 mph most of the time. I give the chain a couple squirts of lube about every 200 miles, and clean it up at oil change time (about 1500 miles)

Earl



lhanscom said:
For those who don't use o-ring chains, what conditions do you ride in? Rain? Dirt? I'm just curious to see if the non-o-ring chains, properly lubed will last a decent amount of time in less then perfect conditions.
 
Back
Top