650 project

[mpls-ugly]

Jet

Jet

Thanks for responding. Im going to try to tackle it anyway, I want different high flow exhaust and pods. Thanks again

I think i am also but but I really cant without a little help.? My kit came with no instructions other than settings. I don't know what to do with the drill bit screw and glue??? If you can help me out when you git to it that would be great. Good luck on the project that will be a cool bike man!

 

[mpls-ugly]

Jet

Jet

Thanks for responding. Im going to try to tackle it anyway, I want different high flow exhaust and pods. Thanks again

I think i am also but but I really cant without a little help.? My kit came with no instructions other than settings. I don't know what to do with the drill bit screw and glue??? If you can help me out when you git to it that would be great. Good luck on the project that will be a cool bike man!

 

[first timer]

it's not that hard, there are 2 drill bits, one to drill out the cap that cover the air mix screw.

then there is another bit that is used to drill out the hole in the bottom of the slide (not the hole the needle goes through, the one next to it) . Making this hole larger makes the slide rise quicker under acceleration, its optional and you don't have to drill it and it won't effect anything except quicker revs.

that only leave the air correctors and probably 2 mains differant sizes, the air correctors go here

the hole on right (the one without the screw slot) face the air corrector ] like this and put the flat side into the hole this is where you use the glue apply just a touch of glue on the outside of the air corrector it keeps them from falling out. use the little brass tool that is machineed at the end and drive the air corrector in.

now that just leaves you with installing the needle, there should be setting with the kit but if not, set the clip at the middle groove. now install the mains, start with the smaller size and try them see how that goes.

and thats it your carbs are jetted.

Before you do this though i would go throught am do a carb clean and rebuild first so that you can elimate dirty carbs from the equation when you are trying to tune.

just follow this it's easy!
http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

also you better be using an impact screw driver when tring to remove these philips head screws any thing elese will strip them. Just take your time and DON"T FORCE ANYTHING!

 

[24flinchin]

I posted a new post about it and got some replies. Read it here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137567 .We can just follow the instructions from one of the other GS kits on the dynojet site.

 

[24flinchin]

Posted at the same time as First Timer, His instructions are better than the ones at dynojet. Thanks for the pictures.

 

[first timer]

 

[mpls-ugly]

Thanks, thats a big help. Now I just have some Stuck screws to deal with and Ill be on my way.

 

[mpls-ugly]

Carb snag, air corrector

Carb snag, air corrector

Thanks again to all you for helping me out on this but i have another question.

I got the carbs apart but one funny thing is that the original Main jet that was in the carb is bigger in total diameter than the dynojet that I got but it threads in fine. the dynojet carb looks like its the size to fit into the air mains hole. The original is a 110 and the stage 3 is a 160, it also came with a set of 155 mains btw. But what im concerned with is the air corrector. It looks like there is already one down there. is the one I install to replace that and I need to somehow remove the one thats in there and replace it? Or do i put the new one in on top of it bringing almost even with the carb body. Or were the carbs jeted at one time and I just leave it as is?? Any input would be a big help.

thanks,

 

[24flinchin]

Did you ever figure this out?

 

[mpls-ugly]

No im still a little stuck here. I think Im just going to go for it and see what happens. Im saving all the original stuff just incase I fail miserably and need to go back to stock. When you did yours did you see a little brass piece down in the air corrector hole? Its deep down there so I think I put this over it.??

 

[24flinchin]

I actually just started doing mine today. I do see what you are talking about(little brass cylinder in that hole) Im just going to put that air correcter in there and not look back. Pretty sure thats the way its supposed to go anyway. You can kind of see it in some of the carb rebuild pics too.

 

[mpls-ugly]

Haha Thats what I did today. I did make the mistake of letting some O rings and two of the pilot jet caps sit in parts cleaner and ate it up. FYI most of the orings ar a #5. siting on the floor of home depot for 30 minuets to figure that out.

 

[24flinchin]

I bought the o-rings in advance but its good to know they are available at home depot. Took me all day to clean,rebuild, and jet them. I just got them back together but not installed on the bike just yet. How far did you get?

 

[first timer]

the homedepot o-rings won't work unless they are vitron type rubber, the gas will destroy them. thats why we get them from robert barr his are the right rubber.

 

[Nessism]

the homedepot o-rings won't work unless they are vitron type rubber, the gas will destroy them. thats why we get them from robert barr his are the right rubber.

Pretty sure Robert uses Nitrle rubber (Buna-N) o-rings.

 

[first timer]

i think either one are fine, just checked mc master carr's table

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html//About_Orings/orings_comparison.htm

buna-n is ok for gas vitron is excellent for gas, basically check the chart and pick your poison.

 

[mpls-ugly]

Well thats a bummer but thanks for the heads up. Do I still want a regular #5? Soo manny set backs soo little time.

 

[mpls-ugly]

And how can I get in contact with this Robert Barr chap??

 

[maro]

Here is his site:

http://www.cycleorings.com/

 

[mpls-ugly]

Wow thanks. thats great!!! Got them on order. thanks your a lifesaver.