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77 550 not starting

  • Thread starter Thread starter bobth1019
  • Start date Start date
B

bobth1019

Guest
evening,

I'm having some starting issues with my 77 gs550. I picked this up recently. Clean, in one piece but bike had not run in 7 years and was garaged. Push button start does not work so kick start only. Engine turned but no start.

Dumped old gas, soaked carbs, did not totally take apart carb as they seems clean as does tank. Fuel fills bowls. Spark at plugs when kicked over.

Can get bike to momentarily start with starting fluid shot in carbs then once burned no more starting or coughing even. If I remove plugs and shoot some starting fluid into cylinders still will not fire which surprises me.

I've hit a road block at this point and could use some suggestions. Thank you.

Bob
 
Everyone will tell you to break them carbs down and clean them proper before anything else. Jets out, 24hr dip, blown out, new o rings and gaskets, new intake and air box boots, and seal up your air box. Til then, there are way too many issues that could be at the heart of the matter.
 
Thanks for the reply...I did pull the jets out, clean passages but before I start hunting down gaskets, boots, etc I am wondering why not a cough with fuel directly in cylinders when it will start for a moment anyhow with starting fluid sprayed into carbs from behind...would seem as though regardless of potential carb issues it should at least fire there, yes?


Everyone will tell you to break them carbs down and clean them proper before anything else. Jets out, 24hr dip, blown out, new o rings and gaskets, new intake and air box boots, and seal up your air box. Til then, there are way too many issues that could be at the heart of the matter.
 
It would appear that you have the airbox off the bike at the present time otherwise you could not squirt starting fluid into the rear of the carbs. P*ss the starting fluid off, you don't want your bike to become addicted to that stuff. Fix the starter issue first. You are up against it trying to use the kick starter, it will not spin the motor fast enough to start a motor that has problems. You will only get frustrated kicking when the bike will not start. Does bike have pods.

What I would do is this. But are only my suggestions:

Fix starting issue. Put a good battery in the bike. Test for a full 12v at the coils. Refit any and all bits of airbox, carbs, etc. Try to start the bike again on the starter with the float bowls full of fresh fuel. If it still won't start then add a teaspoon of fuel to each cylinder and replace the spark plugs and if it fires and runs for 10 secs or so then you have a fuel delivery problem. If it still doesn't fire then you have other issues - Valves out of adjustment, compression, etc.

Hope this helps. remember there are no quick fixes, take your time and do the things that are necessary to get it to run properly.

And dip those carbs if that is what is required and replace all the "O" rings and boots. These motors do not like air leaks or blocked jets and passages.
 
Your expectations are too high

More wrenching is required on a 33 year old bike that hasn't run in 7 years, probably because it needed maintenance then

Spark, fuel, compression, air = running

Which is missing from yours?

It appears you did not get a megawelcome as yet, Cliff will show up soon
 
thank you

thank you

Thanks for your suggestions...the reason for the lo-tech, just-get-started approach at this point is before I sink a few hundred bucks into this bike just to start it (rebuild carb, boots, etc, etc) is I'm trying to get a sense of what I'm up against...as in start it to hear if there are bottom end issues, how tired the motor is, etc. Thanks again
 
Thanks for your suggestions...the reason for the lo-tech, just-get-started approach at this point is before I sink a few hundred bucks into this bike just to start it (rebuild carb, boots, etc, etc) is I'm trying to get a sense of what I'm up against...as in start it to hear if there are bottom end issues, how tired the motor is, etc. Thanks again

There won't be any bottom end issues on this motor unless the sump has filled with water and rusted the crank or something terrible like that. This motor has a complete roller bearing bottom end in it. Almost unburstable. Look elsewhere for problems. If the motor is tired then it's just a set of rings and gaskets and it will be like new again. Maybe a hone for the cylinders thrown in there as well for good measure.
 
Just a quick response as to where you are on this bike. I fully understand what you're going through as I have been through the same thing 4 times now. What the previous posters are trying to make clear is that these are great bikes, however when you get one that's been sitting around for a while, there are things that need to be done in order that you can eliminate what problems you don't have.

A little maintenance/updating work can move you down the line to getting it up and running a lot quicker. I'm no expert...but a little research/reading on this site will save you a lot of headaches and money. Most things are simple but may be irritating. But knowing what is right with the bike helps you work toward what may be going on wrong with the bike. Good luck and hang in there.
 
Thanks for your suggestions...the reason for the lo-tech, just-get-started approach at this point is before I sink a few hundred bucks into this bike just to start it (rebuild carb, boots, etc, etc) is I'm trying to get a sense of what I'm up against...as in start it to hear if there are bottom end issues, how tired the motor is, etc. Thanks again

It doesn't cost hundreds of dollars to clean the carbs. It costs 18 bucks for the o-rings from cycleoring.com and around 20 bucks for berrymans carb dip. The jets are fine. If a gasket rips while opening it, they are cheap.

What is wrong with your starting system?
 
We all agree with getting it running as the first thing to do before spending big bucks but as mentioned there are some basic things you do have to do to get there.

Cleaning and rebuilding the carbs is issue one.

The next is getting the electric start to work. You need a good, well charged battery a circuit test lamp and a wiring diagram. 9 times out of 10 the primary issue is dirty contacts and connectors along with poor grounds. You need to clean any and all that you find as dirty connectors creat resistance in the circuits that causes voltages to drop or in some cases not to pass at all.

With the starter circuit a lot of the problem can be at the runswitch/starter button. The contacts get dirty or corroded. Voltage flows into and out of the switch down to the solenoid so likely your switch contacts need cleaning. Be careful opening up the switch as the contacts are tiny and parts are easy to lose. Place a container under the mechanism as you work on it to catch any parts that may drop out.

Once cleaned turn on the key and trace the voltage up to the switch and out again when the button is pressed. If that was the problem your solenoid should activate. If not, you should check that voltage gets to the solenoid connector, line in ( two wires one is power one is ground). It may be that you solenoid is toast if you have power but it doesn't activate. Replacement solenoids can be had at Lowes in the garden tractor section for around $12. Not plug and play to the GS harness but easily rigged.

Hopefully with clean carbs and starter circuit you should hear some signs of life.

Good luck,
Spyug
 
Good suggestions

Good suggestions

Thanks again...very good straightforward suggestions and advice. Gave it one more shot with the carbs as they were and no go. So I pulled the carbs and will do the cleaning as all mention. Plugs are dry but float bowls have gas so gunked up somewhere in there, yes? I'll track the starter button issues as outlined and see how that goes. My leg was wearing out with the kicking anyhow...forgot how old that gets.

I hadn't been on this site till I came across a link saying how good it was. really true...great community of people here. Thanks

Bob
 
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