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77 gs550 overcharging?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hell or high water
  • Start date Start date
H

Hell or high water

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Hey guys so had the bike running for a couple months now and finally took it on a longer ride. Haven't hade any problems running around town, however low and behold I ride it to work and dies in the parking lot. Battery reads 0 and won't charge, bought a new battery and did some testing today. The generator checked out using the bikeclife stator test, so leads me to believe the r/r. It's just blowing my mind that at idle I'm charging at 33vdc... it bounces around but still I don't get it. The r/r was a eBay cheap find...so before you guys flame me lol my intentions was to just get it rolling. Now I need reliablilty. Help gurus of gs's!!!
 
Hell or high water said:
Hey guys so had the bike running for a couple months now and finally took it on a longer ride. Haven't hade any problems running around town, however low and behold I ride it to work and dies in the parking lot. Battery reads 0 and won't charge, bought a new battery and did some testing today. The generator checked out using the bikeclife stator test, so leads me to believe the r/r. It's just blowing my mind that at idle I'm charging at 33vdc... it bounces around but still I don't get it. The r/r was a eBay cheap find...so before you guys flame me lol my intentions was to just get it rolling. Now I need reliablilty. Help gurus of gs's!!!
Click to expand...
Yep, that is definitely a bad regulator. SH775 is the cats meow that all the cool guys are using.
 
Just make sure it says shindengen sh775 on the back of it. I ordered one that it was a sh775 but it was a knockoff so I sent it back and ordered a used one.
 
danbobberino said:
I ordered one that it was a sh775 but it was a knockoff so I sent it back and ordered a used one.
Click to expand...
I think if you look back at the listing for that unit, it probably says something like "replaces SH775" or "fits Polaris RZR" or something similar, but with VERY careful wording never actually claims to be an SH775.

Rather than type it all over, just click HERE, then scroll down to post #18.

.
 
FWIW, I was able to source the SH775 through amazon. The item is still listed, but the price has gone up considerably since (180$ shipped to my country), which IMO hints at it being genuine (Another hint is that the unit keeps quite cool, and the battery still being alive). However, I still have to confirm it conclusively, i.e. reading stator current etc.
 
Steve said:
I think if you look back at the listing for that unit, it probably says something like "replaces SH775" or "fits Polaris RZR" or something similar, but with VERY careful wording never actually claims to be an SH775.

Rather than type it all over, just click HERE, then scroll down to post #18.

.
Click to expand...

Yup, you are right, as usual
 
So put the new regulator in and charged at 13.5 at idle and 14.5 or so at 4K rpm. Ran fine for the day then took off for a quick ride and boom same thing. Battery at zero... what would keep blowing up regulators??? I'm about out of patcience with this thing. I'm gonna light it on fire!!!
 
So surprise us by telling what regulator you got! Your bike left factory with seperate rectifier and regulator...how about now?
 
Well you didn't leave the old battery in, did you?

Also, if you don't have patience, get another bike than a GS.
 
Charging at 33v is enough to cause damage, boil fluid out of the battery, reduce the life of your lights, and damage the stator. I imagine the insulation varnish on the stator wire is weak and breaking down under a heavy charging load because of the previous overcharging. I have experienced it myself where the stator checked out and failed later. There are definitive tests, but I didn't have the proper equipment to check for failure under load.
 
I replaced the battery with the same gel type battery as before and I used the Polaris style replacement regulator. Dident realize that until I looked at the listing again. However to burn two different regulators within three weeks? It just sounds to me like there's an underlying problem, I realize they aren't as good of quality as the mentioned one on here but at least should have lasted a little while right? Troubleshooting wise could someone tell me what would burn a regulator? The stator going bad has been mentioned but is there other things? My knowledge on bikes is very limited as this is the first bike I've ever owned or worked on. Thanks and sorry for the dumb questions I guess. I just know the guys on here are very knowledgeable.
 
I'll ask again....
Your bike left factory with seperate rectifier and regulator...how about now ?
these would be two physically seperate units. Did you run the 3 stator output wires direct to your new polaris type r/r?

"So put the new regulator in and charged at 13.5 at idle and 14.5 or so at 4K rpm. Ran fine for the day then took off for a quick ride and boom same thing. Battery at zero" This suggests that the r/r was working, but then stator likely failed to produce output. You need to test stator

Do this test.. Disconnect stator leads from r/r. with your multimeter set on 200vac scale (or same scale that you would use for house outlet) While running bike to about 4k to 5k rpms, measure stator lead to stator lead and note the 3 readings. At same time and same meter scale, put one meter probe on any stator lead and other probe on good bike ground - you want to see a very low voltage reading, 0 would be best.

​
 
What would make several shunt R/R's fail back to back are the same electrical conditions in the harness that made the first one fail. The plugs, connectors, switches and grounds on old bikes need to be cleaned thoroughly. If you had the bike running you could run your hands over the wiring harness and would notice some of the wiring was warmer or even hotter than in other places. This is usually at the bullet connectors or plugs and sometimes a wire (switches do the same thing but it is harder to tell). That heat is caused by poor or dirty connections, corrosion, etc. It's like adding resistors into the circuit. When they are totaled up it can be enough to fool a shunt R/R into overcharging or overheating destroying itself or other components. When I bought my bike, I also bought a parts bike that had only about 4,600 miles on it. Both bikes had connectors from the stator that were burnt and some of the large plugs ran very hot. Go through every connector and ground on the bike and clean it or replace the burnt ones. A small stainless steel brush, DeoxIT D5 and a coating of dielectric grease help a lot. The few connectors that may need to be replaced need to be done with a proper crimping tool. You may cure a lot of problems in the process. Look for discolored wiring or connectors or hard brittle insulation, an indication of excessive heat. Good luck.
 
The original regulator and rectifier has been replaced with a combination unit whic is the Polaris type r/r so no the original stuff is gone. I'll verify the wiring tonight but I'm 99 percent certain the three generator legs go to the combination r/r. Then the r/r is directly connected to the battery, positive and negative to ensure proper grounding. It sounds like everyone is pointing to the stator, I checked it according to the stator pages on bikeclifs website and it checked out but it seems that's not nessicerily deffinitive? At this point I'm gonna replace the stator with a oem one from rmstator and try to find a genuine sh775 which seems to be kinda difficult, and a new lead acid battery. Maybe the gels aren't any good? If someone has time please show me where to find a genuine one?
 
I rewiried the whole bike from scratch, new connectors and switches. Maybe I have something wired wrong, I'll verify tonight and update.
 
Only 3 parts and 6 wires should be involved if you have a single point ground set up, or you could have the R/R(-) going directly to the Bat(-) like you mentioned (whoops forgot to put in fuse between R/R and Bat(+)):

35116311032_194a4ff183.jpg


Here is the correct R/R: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-13-POL...ash=item1ec8b9c6b4:g:HBwAAOSwhvFZDb4p&vxp=mtr

Verify stator is good and battery isn't fried.
 
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That R/R Should be powered through the original power wire and then it will be fused. It will work the way you show but it is not recommended. posplayr could explain better than I ever can.
 
OldVet66 said:
That R/R Should be powered through the original power wire and then it will be fused. It will work the way you show but it is not recommended. posplayr could explain better than I ever can.
Click to expand...

You mean the fuse that should be on the positive terminal ?
Sam did say that it's not in the drawing.
Pic is from the CompuFire site.

CompuFire.jpg
 
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