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77 gs550 overcharging?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hell or high water
  • Start date Start date
IMG_0692.jpgThe side view looked like it made contact with the rotor???
 
So here's the old stator. Other than the wires being hard after they enter the case I dident notice anything wrong with it. Let me know if you guys see anything.View attachment 51716

I scanned the 40 posts. I don't see where you ever actually measured and diagnosed the stator was bad. It is not easy to test except on a running bike. I don't see anything obvious that has burned. If you diagnosed it as bad it should be replaced.
Do you plan to change it or put it back in?
 
I tested it when the bike was running and it tested fine from what I could tell. It had 60 vac from leg to leg on the generator output. The recharging voltage was all over the place from low 13 to low 14 at idle and was 14.7 to 16 at 4000 rpm. It was hard to get a number on it. From the general consensus everyone has been telling me that because the generators the only thing ahead of the r/r, it could be the only thing to burn them up consistently. I have been told that when the bike warms up or at higher rpm that that could be when the insulation is failing. I'm not sure about all that but it being ahead of the r/r makes sense I guess. What's your thoughts?
 
Im debating to replace it or not. I looked into the one posplayr recommended and though about replacing it for peace of mind but would rather put the money towards sorting out the carb issues I've been having. This however is a much more debilitating problem if I can't keep it running long enough to sort the carbs. So this must be taken care of first. I bought a genuine sh775 this time and am going to go with an agm battery instead of the gel battery as well. Just hung up on this generator issue.
 
I tested it when the bike was running and it tested fine from what I could tell. It had 60 vac from leg to leg on the generator output. The recharging voltage was all over the place from low 13 to low 14 at idle and was 14.7 to 16 at 4000 rpm. It was hard to get a number on it. From the general consensus everyone has been telling me that because the generators the only thing ahead of the r/r, it could be the only thing to burn them up consistently. I have been told that when the bike warms up or at higher rpm that that could be when the insulation is failing. I'm not sure about all that but it being ahead of the r/r makes sense I guess. What's your thoughts?

You can't confirm a stator is GOOD unless you fully stress it. From what I can tell you never did the leg to ground test which is the best test (Stator Pages Phase B).
You can confirm it is bad if it FAILED a test.
I don't think you did either.
I you have the time stick it back in and test it ; If you have the money buy a new one.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ECOND-LAW-of-Stator-testing&highlight=Phase+B
 
Out of curiosity I'll stick it back in and test it and I'll have one for someone on here if they need one, I'll probably still replace it with the heavier duty one you recommended that way it's a new stator, good sh775, and new agm battery...if it fries again I'll know it has to be a wiring issue. That's all that in the recharging system as I understand it. Also is it normal for a large washer to fall in the stator case when you take it off? I couldent tell if it was FOD or a shim for something. Surely if it was rolling around in the case it would be tore up but it's not. I'll take a picture of it tonight. Thanks again for all your help so far! I hope to be able to trust it for a good two hour ride in September lol, fingers crossed this works.
 
There are washers that run on both sides of the starter spur gear( about the size of a quarter but thicker)
 
That looks to be right it fits over the spur gear shaft so that's where I'll put it. Thanks, also I double checked my wiring here a moment ago and realized I did run one leg of the stator through the switch loop. I'll correct it when I put the new stator in but could this have been what's destroying my regulators? could the connection between the r/w and g/w wire through the light switch been bad causeing the stator to lose a phase which would damage the r/r? Just spit balling, it's got me wondering though...
 
That looks to be right it fits over the spur gear shaft so that's where I'll put it. Thanks, also I double checked my wiring here a moment ago and realized I did run one leg of the stator through the switch loop. I'll correct it when I put the new stator in but could this have been what's destroying my regulators? could the connection between the r/w and g/w wire through the light switch been bad causeing the stator to lose a phase which would damage the r/r? Just spit balling, it's got me wondering though...

with a shunt r/r the stator a/c voltages never get much over 15v because the stator is always connected to the battery through a diode. With series r/r the r/ r disconnects from the battery do you get the same open loop voltages you would get during phase b stator tests (80 vac @5k rpm). So it is possible with a headlamp loop to get a arching in the headlamp switch that makes your volt meter go haywire. You probably did not hurt anything.
 
That looks to be right it fits over the spur gear shaft so that's where I'll put it. Thanks, also I double checked my wiring here a moment ago and realized I did run one leg of the stator through the switch loop. I'll correct it when I put the new stator in but could this have been what's destroying my regulators? could the connection between the r/w and g/w wire through the light switch been bad causeing the stator to lose a phase which would damage the r/r? Just spit balling, it's got me wondering though...
Supposed to be two washes on either side of the gear. Careful you are not doubling up one side.
 
Ordered an electrosport esg014 stator and agm battery today so hopefully in the next two weeks I'll have an update, so just as a check on my wiring posplayr, I'll wire the three stator legs to the r/r bypassing the switch loop and the output of the r/r splits at the r/r with one leg to the battery and the other leg to the fuse block feeding the ignition switch...I'd hate for it to be a wiring issue after all this. Thanks in advance for not making me feel stupid, I just want to make sure I dident miss something in translation.
 
Ok so put the sh775 in and the new stator, wired directly to the r/r, and new agm battery. Checked my voltage at battery at idle and is charging at 14-15 volts... this seems high and also my r/r feels pretty hot sitting at idle. What's going on here? I cracked the throttle and spiked between 15-19 volts....
 
Also do the sh775 r/r ground through the case? I have the black wire to the battery but what the r/r is mounted to is painted. Could this be the culprit?
 
Have you read about single point grounding SPG yet? Find a good ground spot as close to the R/R as possible. The R/R mounting bolt is a common option. All the grounds (R/R, battery, B/W from the lights etc, and ignition I think) get crimped together in one or maybe two ring connectors and get ground at your SPG location.

Posplayr and his posts can tell you more.
 
I've read a little bit but not to much as I have everything spg to the neg Battery terminal. Since your post I glanced through and seen this is unwise? I don't understand why this makes any difference but I do understand it does. If that makes any Sense, could someone please explain why the battery terminal is not ok? Thanks
 
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Thanks everybody for all the help! I rewired my grounds as posplayer outlined in his spg thread and viola charging at 13.8v at idle and 15.2v at 5k and up. Thanks again all you guys, I'll give it a month or so and give an update as to how it holds up. You all rock!!!
 
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