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78 1000 seat trim plastic

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
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SVSooke

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2011_06230004.jpg

The seat trim for my 78 100 is broken.Is it ABS or something else?Hoping someone knows so I can plan ahead.If not ABS I'll plastic weld it,if it is I'll use the slurry method.
 
Acetone is a god send.

The light switch lever on the 1K was cracked around the hole where the screw goes through used to retain it to the switch. I took some acetone and applied it to the crack to meld the crack together and noticed the crack took on a shiny appearance that didn't go away after it evaporated. The knob was faded white from the sun beating down on it over the years, so I said what the hey, lets try wiping the surface of the knob down with it and see what happens. Well you know what, if you are careful in how you hold it and polish it with a fine cloth as it's drying, it works just as well at renewing the finish on faded ABS.
 
Rusty, that switch looks BETTER than new! :eek:
I will have to try that method on a bunch of stuff. ;)

Perhaps you would be good enough to add it to the tips section?

Eric
 
I've used acetone to fix ABS to.It's just with the 85 750EF I found out the hard way that the lowers where not ABS.Just thought I'd ask the GSR brain trust rather than experiment.
Thanks for the answer!
 
2011_06230004.jpg

The seat trim for my 78 100 is broken.Is it ABS or something else?Hoping someone knows so I can plan ahead.If not ABS I'll plastic weld it,if it is I'll use the slurry method.
Hate to sound ignorant, but I am. What is the slurry method. Mine is cracked and would like to mend it, before it breaks also.
 
Hate to sound ignorant, but I am. What is the slurry method. Mine is cracked and would like to mend it, before it breaks also.
Melt slivered ABS in acetone and apply it to the piece in question.How Matchless put the Windjammer that Chuck and RB sent him back together,
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=168826
Edit: If yours is just cracked put a bit if acetone on the crack,should "weld" it up PDQ.
 
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I have one or two of those bottom plastic filler panels that I might be talked into selling but,
they have those factory red and yellow(?) stripes on them for a Skunk.

Eric
 
Other than the broken bit this one's not that bad.Now I'm sure it's ABS I am confident it's repairable.Heck I could fix it if it was something else.Got to anyway,$$ here are to tight to get another one.
 
Eric, I had given thought to that very same suggestion on the way home from work today; I should add it to the tips and tricks section.

The only thing to be mindful of is, when the ABS surface is wetted with acetone it becomes soft and highly susceptible to being damaged. You must wait until the surface is about to leave it's plastic state, then start buffing the surface with a high thread count cloth.

I'm not sure how well this process lends it's self to larger pieces at the moment. If you decide try this on a larger item, say something on the order of a right or left control, err on the side of caution.
 
Acetone is a god send.

The light switch lever on the 1K was cracked around the hole where the screw goes through used to retain it to the switch. I took some acetone and applied it to the crack to meld the crack together and noticed the crack took on a shiny appearance that didn't go away after it evaporated. The knob was faded white from the sun beating down on it over the years, so I said what the hey, lets try wiping the surface of the knob down with it and see what happens. Well you know what, if you are careful in how you hold it and polish it with a fine cloth as it's drying, it works just as well at renewing the finish on faded ABS.

Those are flimsy knobs at best, you're not the only one that had that problem. Yours if probably as good as new now, it looks new.
 
2012_03170007.jpg

2012_03170005.jpg

Fixed up the break and reattached the broken end with a bit o' help;)Made some slurry to fill in to.
2012_03170004.jpg

Put it on the seat so it sets up right.
 
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