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78 GS 1000 cylinder sleeve

  • Thread starter Thread starter 78caferacer
  • Start date Start date
7

78caferacer

Guest
Yet another expensive Zuk lesson learned. Purchased a new sleeve for the #2 cylinder, installed it using the "oven method," and honed it up nicely. Then after spending all day cussing while trying to install the 2 and 3 pistons into the cylinders, I finally got some sense and measured the sleeve diameter...over .5MM too small!!! A tic smaller than the piston, in fact. GD it! Now I have a $75 paperweight to add to my growing collection. Does anyone have a decent used sleeve out there for a reasonable price? I'm not able (yet) to find a cylinder set on eBay that I can canibalize the sleeves from. There is a new Wiseco sleeve on eBay, but I don't trust them now and until the seller mics the diameter for me, I'm not investing in another paperweight that was "guaranteed to fit."
 
78caferacer said:
Yet another expensive Zuk lesson learned. Purchased a new sleeve for the #2 cylinder, installed it using the "oven method," and honed it up nicely. Then after spending all day cussing while trying to install the 2 and 3 pistons into the cylinders, I finally got some sense and measured the sleeve diameter...over .5MM too small!!! A tic smaller than the piston, in fact. GD it! Now I have a $75 paperweight to add to my growing collection. Does anyone have a decent used sleeve out there for a reasonable price? I'm not able (yet) to find a cylinder set on eBay that I can canibalize the sleeves from. There is a new Wiseco sleeve on eBay, but I don't trust them now and until the seller mics the diameter for me, I'm not investing in another paperweight that was "guaranteed to fit."
Click to expand...

I have a set of cylinders with good sleeves, standard bore.

Pm me if you want it.
 
Is there a reasou you can't let a machine shop bore that sleeve to the proper size ?
 
I suppose, but I don't know of one. Assuming I can find one, what do you think would be a reasonable fee for it?
 
That sounds about right, just take the block in & show them what you need. May seem like a big job to you, but just another day at the office for them.
 
Yeah, even APE will do it for about $50 per, have to ship to them of course, probably a local shop that can do it.
 
If you just put a sleeve in the block, it will need to be pressed to seat the flange, then the block surfaced.

Jay
 
Big Jay said:
If you just put a sleeve in the block, it will need to be pressed to seat the flange, then the block surfaced.

Jay
Click to expand...

Press is not needed with GS1000 liners; the liner will drop right in and seat down fully if you heat the cylinder block to 350F or so. I say this because I've done it.

Regarding surfacing, it's possible...or even recommended but the only way to really know if it's required is to check the flatness. On the cylinder I did the sleeves went down flush the the top deck surface and measured OK - not perfect but serviceable.

All this stuff said, one huge caution regarding anyone doing the BBQ cylinder sleeve swap; three of the sleeves fit loosely into the block on the cylinder that I did. It's just a matter of a few thousands with the interference fit and critical details matter. The sleeves don't fall loose or anything like that but if you take a soft hammer and rap on the bottom edge of the sleeve they will move up in the cylinder block.

I noticed when removing liners from a couple of different blocks that they both had some color coded dots on them next to the cylinder holes. I'm wondering if Suzuki matched the fit of the sleeves into the block much the way engine bearings are matched? Not sure but I do know there is a difference in some sleeves.
 
You have not done nearly as many as I have. When you drop the sleeve in, as it cools it first grabs the od of the sleeve. Then as it cools, the counterbore area retracts away from the bottom of the flange as much as .005"

If you then surface it so the flange is not sticking up, as soon as the motor gets up to operating temp, the sleeve will drop.

I have fixed hundreds of these that people have done.

Jay
 
Big Jay said:
You have not done nearly as many as I have. When you drop the sleeve in, as it cools it first grabs the od of the sleeve. Then as it cools, the counterbore area retracts away from the bottom of the flange as much as .005"

If you then surface it so the flange is not sticking up, as soon as the motor gets up to operating temp, the sleeve will drop.

I have fixed hundreds of these that people have done.

Jay
Click to expand...

I believe you Jay. Maybe the one I did did not have the sleeves popping up as it cooled because the liners were not tight enough? And speaking of that, are you aware of any difference between liners for different year engines, or differences between the 1000 shaft vs. 1000 chain? Still trying to figure out why these liners are loose.
 
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