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78 gs 1000 need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter nativebane04
  • Start date Start date
N

nativebane04

Guest
Ok so I bought this bike about 2 weeks ago ran good when I got her seafoamed and all no smoke.had to let motor warm up for a good 10 min on choke then could ride all day no prob.until I ran out of oil.sputtered.took her home filled her up and. Now she acting like no gas.full tank.my guess was carbs.worked on my 90 katana before so prity familiar with the carbs plus auto mech for 4 years grew up on 38chevy motors.so took carbs off cleaned very thuroughly.put back on.dnt know specs so I did 1 1/2 turn out.wnt start unless full choke and a lil bit of throttle.and if I wide open throttle she will bog and die.same as if I let off choke bog and die.stumped on what to do.flooding? Not enouph gas? Idk if its to lean or to rich.any responses will be greatly appreciated o and has brand new plugs and air n oil filter plugs are good color not black or white
 
nativebane04 said:
Ok so I bought this bike about 2 weeks ago ran good when I got her seafoamed and all no smoke.had to let motor warm up for a good 10 min on choke then could ride all day no prob.until I ran out of oil.sputtered.took her home filled her up and. Now she acting like no gas.full tank.my guess was carbs.worked on my 90 katana before so prity familiar with the carbs plus auto mech for 4 years grew up on 38chevy motors.so took carbs off cleaned very thuroughly.put back on.dnt know specs so I did 1 1/2 turn out.wnt start unless full choke and a lil bit of throttle.and if I wide open throttle she will bog and die.same as if I let off choke bog and die.stumped on what to do.flooding? Not enouph gas? Idk if its to lean or to rich.any responses will be greatly appreciated o and has brand new plugs and air n oil filter plugs are good color not black or white
Click to expand...


Is this a joke?? don't mean to be insulting but it sounds a bit like a joke. You let an air cooled bike warm up for a "good" ten minutes...choked. Then you ran it out of oil and now it won't run properly?? funny stuff.
 
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General Maintenance

General Maintenance

Adjust valves for sure. What kind of carbs? Ran it out of gas or oil? Any leaks vacume or other? Any modifications?
 
If you have the VM carbs set the bottom pilot screws at 7/8 out from very lightly seated. Side mixture screws ( air screws ) at 2 out. I would also recheck the tips on the bottom ones to be sure you havent broken any off in there. If so, there are tutorials on how to remove broken tips.
 
And to set the big idle knob I use the touch it off to the throttle linkage and add 2 turns in. It may be a bit high at start but it can be turned down. Do NOT twist the grip as you try and start it either..it will not ever start that way. Just choke and hit the button.
 
thanks

thanks

No not a joke.thanks for all the replies.I live in a very cold part of n.m. so letting any motor warm up is a usual.I got her running today.just needed sum good carb adjustment thanks for the 7/8 pilot screw out tip.I knew the air 2 out but not pilot screw.so thanks for that.went for a ride today just down the road and back runs ok unless I hit the throttle realy hard then she bogs down and dies.il work with her more tomarow and let u guys know how it goes.thanks for all the replies
 
Have fun with the adjustments and I hope you get lucky, but I suspect in the end you will need to totally strip down the carburetors, soak them in a carburetor dip for 24 hrs., replace the O-rings and carburetor boots. Then you get to adjust and sync the carburetors again, but this time it will warm up quickly and run nicely. The VM carburetors do not self adjust for altitude so that may or may not be a problem for you. Welcome to the forum.
 
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azr said:
Is this a joke?? don't mean to be insulting but it sounds a bit like a joke. You let an air cooled bike warm up for a "good" ten minutes...choked. Then you ran it out of oil and now it won't run properly?? funny stuff.
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I think what azr is saying is that these bikes (or any air-cooled 4 stroker) can be cold blooded. I've heard a lot of guys recommend letting them warm up until able to idle unchoked. I'm sure you have other stuff going on with yours, but it'd be a good habit to get into anyway. With my 1100, 10 min warming up won't always do it. So if I have to take off, I keep it under 4k rpms or so, usually less, until it'll idle off choke.

Good luck!
 
thanks

thanks

Well I very very thuroughly went through each carb and let base of carbs set in carb cleaner.made em realy nice n smooth.then cleaned each piece by hand.only upgrade is dyna 3 ignition so no more points whew.thank goodness.tomarow il do the 7/8 and 2 out and hopefully that will work.thinking about keeping all original as much as possible eccept paint.thinking a nice grey /black.with deep purple midlines to split the black and grey.and maby a white in between the purple.and this is my first 1000cc bike.my first bike was a 250 but I only had it for 2 weeks befoew I had to sell it then that's when I got my 600 rode it for a week or two and then the solenoid went down ao stoped riding for awile now I have my gs and I love it.harley/streetbike mix.I'm thinkin of puting sum harley pipes on it sound a little deeper tone.but I want to keep original pipes so I can switch em whenever I want.any sugestions about paint/ pipes.and no not 10 min straight choke 10 min from full choke down to no choke.to warm up sometimes a lil less.any good suggestions would help.no I dnt wanna cafe or bober it though
 
Plus not to mention thia bike has 33, xxx mi well now 34, xxx mi.but this bike sat in a barn for 20 sum odd years
 
If the valves haven't been adjusted, they should be your priority. They tighten up with wear. After that and a good carburetor adjustment and synchronization, I would highly recommend cleaning all your electrical connections, plugs, switches and grounds coating all with dielectric grease. Then check out your charging system. I got my bike a '78 and a '79 parts bike. Both bikes had burnt bullet connectors going to the stator, so it is common for lurking electrical problems waiting to bite you if you don't do the maintenance.
 
Ok so she started but only for a second.I know it is the carbs not adjusted right for sure.the whole 2 out fir air and 7/8 for gas is nt working.any ideas
 
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Ok so no matter what i cant get the carbs adjusted right.i pulled the plugs and they were kinda white so i know its running lean.i looked inthe manual online and it says to just leave them alone...no help there....so what is the stock.how many turns out on both the main on the bottom and the air on the top?realy need to gether running or the wife is gona make me sell her ugh
 
OK so its running. Now start on carb 3 from the left side of the bike and turn the side mixture screw in very slowly till it starts to buck and want to stall...then slowly turn it out and listen to the RPMs go up. Once you have reached the HIGHEST the idle ( listen and watch the tach for this ) will go up, turn it in 1/8 turn and rest the idle at around 1200.

Repeat this process on 1, 2, 1nd 4. Bet youll find your more at around 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 on them at the end. Leave the bottom pilots at the 7/8 out..thats the best I have found on all 4 of my 1000s. The fine tuning is now done up top.

The mixture screws on the side meter in air to the muixture..turning them IN will richen the mix and out will lean the mixture. Sort of like slowly cracking open an air line on a compressor..the more you open the valve the more air will come out..follow me here??
 
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You also need to check the timing and the valves adjusted as was mentioned earlier. I think youn said you did a full carb tear down and rebuild with all,new orings..yes ? How about the intake boot orings? How clogged up and dirty is the air filter..can it breathe and not be getting choked to death by the filter???
 
Orings and boots are in way good condish.so no air leak.and from what I rwad sum people say 2 out on the main is good and 1 1/2 on the air.are they wrong?.I know it has to be the carbs though.
 
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