'78 gs750ec

[allojohn]

So I've begun the tear-down and found a few problems so far. One of the top shock mount bolts is stripped, I guess I need a tap & die kit. One of the front mudguard mounts is busted out - beyond repair? And many of the bayonet electrical connections are blackened and burned. I jumped the gun a bit a while back and acquired an aluminum swing arm off an '82 GS1100E. I had read in a couple of places it was a straight swap - well it don't look that way to me now. The shaft diameter is much larger, the arms are about 1" longer and I don't think the brake caliper support arm will fit at all. Advice anyone?

 

[Nessism]

Those blackened wires are for the stator. A very common issue. I suggest you replace those bullets with spade terminals and clean up the wiring. There are tons of threads on how to clean up the charging system wiring in the archives. More specifically, you should eliminate the stator wire loop out to the headlamp switch and wire direct to the R/R otherwise your harness could get cooked.

Broken fender mount is a bummer. It shouldn't be difficult to find a new/used fork lower.

Shock mount...I'd try to clean it up with a die. You may have to go down one size and rethead. The threads don't take much load so no worry with going smaller

 

[allojohn]

I had a quick look on ebay and found a few '78 forks but not the dual disk left leg - I'll keep looking. I read the "stator papers" but missed the direct wiring bit - thanks for pointing that out Ed.
I followed the forum advice and took a ton of photos during the tear-down and put all the bits into ziplock bags but it'll be a challenge for me to get it all back together again. If this forum didn't exist I'm not sure I would have set out on this project at all.

 

[Flyboy]

Don't sweat it, those are all minor issues, as Ed said, you will pick up a second hand one, just keep your eyes open, maybe post for one in the parts wanted section.
Yeah, shock monts are famous for that, not sure why, every G I have had, has had that issue, again as said above, maybe just go down a size and rethread, worst case senario is just grind it off, drill the frame for a bolt of the same size, that is what I had to do on mine, if you check out my build thread in my sig, you will see pics of the bare frame, and the hole that takes the bolt where that mount used to be.

There are lots of folk with plenty know how on these machines, so you are not alone, I have no doubt that the build is going to end in one sweet ride, I will be following with interest.

 

[knowyourenemy66]

I have the leg you need--I sent you a pm

 

[allojohn]

Crikey Flyboy, Jennifer needed a lot of help there! Looks like you know what you're doing - excellent work!

 

[allojohn]

I have the leg you need--I sent you a pm

I think I PM'd you back but I don't see the message in my sent folder (I'm still getting used to this forum stuff).

 

[allojohn]

More proof the PO cared for this machine - the intake o-rings were like new, unbelievable.

 

[allojohn]

Pretty well got her in pieces now. I broke an exhaust bolt in the head DOH! so I've got to fix that. Install a Dyna electronic ignition and new clutch springs (out of spec) but the clutch plates were fine.

 

[allojohn]

And this is what she looked like before I got started. Nice tractor tire on the rear end.

 

[7981GS]

Sweet bike with better suspension pieces.
Might I recommend Progressive Suspension springs and shocks on her some day.


Daniel

 

[Nessism]

What ever you do, do NOT use an easy out to try to remove that broken bolt. Since there is still a piece sticking out I suggest heating it up red hot to break down the chemical bonding holding it in place. Welding a nut on the nub is a good idea too if you have the tools.

Good luck

 

[allojohn]

Sweet bike with better suspension pieces.
Might I recommend Progressive Suspension springs and shocks on her some day.


Daniel

I had been considering upgrading to Works fork springs and shocks but a lot of people on here seem to favor Progressive. More research required....

 

[allojohn]

What ever you do, do NOT use an easy out to try to remove that broken bolt. Since there is still a piece sticking out I suggest heating it up red hot to break down the chemical bonding holding it in place. Welding a nut on the nub is a good idea too if you have the tools.

Good luck

Ed, I've been thinking long and hard about this as it's not something I've dealt with before. There was a bit more of the bolt sticking out before my dremel and impact driver took it off. I have no welding equipment so I have to try something else. Thanks for the advice on heating it up, I'll do that and then use the left handed drill bit method, although this scares me - it seems breaking the bit is common and makes the problem decidedly worse.

 

[Nessism]

Ed, I've been thinking long and hard about this as it's not something I've dealt with before. There was a bit more of the bolt sticking out before my dremel and impact driver took it off. I have no welding equipment so I have to try something else. Thanks for the advice on heating it up, I'll do that and then use the left handed drill bit method, although this scares me - it seems breaking the bit is common and makes the problem decidedly worse.

It's the broken ez-outs that's common, not breaking the drill bits.

If you decide to drill it out make sure to center punch the bolt after you grind it down flat. Use a small drill bit at first and make sure you hit the center of the bolt. If you are off center, work the drill bit back and forth until you enlarge the hole into the center of the bolt. I can't stress this enough. You need to keep in the center. After a centered hole is achieved, move up one bit size and keep drilling. Typically the broken bolt will spin free at some point if you use LH bits. Please take your time with this task. Many members here botch the job and trash the head.

 

[mike-s]

Perhaps consider trying something like this on the stub of steel left and then use vice grip pliers on the remaining stub to try and remove it.

Or alternatively, drill a pilot hole for the easy out as suggested by Nessim, get the easy out starting to grip in there, and then use this to cool the stub down to give yourself the maximum advantage you can give yourself. Also if you use an easy-out, make sure you use the largest one you can fit in there to minimise the chance of snapping the hardened steel tip off in there and really really screwing yourself over.

 

[allojohn]

It's the broken ez-outs that's common, not breaking the drill bits.

If you decide to drill it out make sure to center punch the bolt after you grind it down flat. Use a small drill bit at first and make sure you hit the center of the bolt. If you are off center, work the drill bit back and forth until you enlarge the hole into the center of the bolt. I can't stress this enough. You need to keep in the center. After a centered hole is achieved, move up one bit size and keep drilling. Typically the broken bolt will spin free at some point if you use LH bits. Please take your time with this task. Many members here botch the job and trash the head.

Perhaps consider trying something like this on the stub of steel left and then use vice grip pliers on the remaining stub to try and remove it.

Or alternatively, drill a pilot hole for the easy out as suggested by Nessim, get the easy out starting to grip in there, and then use this to cool the stub down to give yourself the maximum advantage you can give yourself. Also if you use an easy-out, make sure you use the largest one you can fit in there to minimise the chance of snapping the hardened steel tip off in there and really really screwing yourself over.

Great ideas guys, heating / freezing, I'm feeling more confident this is going to work out and I have a backup plan with LH drill bits.

 

[Nessism]

Or alternatively, drill a pilot hole for the easy out as suggested by Nessim, get the easy out starting to grip in there, and then use this to cool the stub down to give yourself the maximum advantage you can give yourself. Also if you use an easy-out, make sure you use the largest one you can fit in there to minimise the chance of snapping the hardened steel tip off in there and really really screwing yourself over.

Just to make myself clear, I do NOT recommend using an easy-out. I suggest use of LH drill bits and progressively steping up the size until the bolt is cleared out. If necessary, a tap can be used to do the final clean up.

Easy-outs love to break off, and then they are almost impossible to drill out. Best to stay clear of them entirely unless you are highly skilled in their use.

 

[allojohn]

10-4 Ed, received and understood. After heating and freezing I will use LH drill bits and move progressively larger to clear out the thread. Hopefully the remnants will unscrew while drilling, if not I will tap out the remainder.

 

[Big T]

I had been considering upgrading to Works fork springs and shocks but a lot of people on here seem to favor Progressive. More research required....

Works are excellent - most members here are too cheap for that upgrade