B
Bjones89
Guest
I'm doing an oil change on my bike next month and it's nearly empty wat type of oil I should use and oil filter? Should I be concerned it was so empty when I got it?
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
D
Downs
Guest
Pick whatever you want in 10W-40 that's NOT "energy conserving", which you shouldn't find in a 10W-40 anyway. I personally use a MC Specific Semi-Synthetic that I can find locally easily on the shelf for a good price. But I've used everything from SuperTech wal mart oil to Amsoil to Shell Rotella T. They've all worked just fine and oil analysis shows that nothing bad is happening internally using even the cheap oils.
As for filter, again doesn't' really matter here either. You can get FRAM (Not a favorite due to filter construction techniques) from Auto Zone and probably Wal Mart. If you want to order online that opens a ton of options. I'm not usually a fan of FRAM filters but their CH6000 (the one for these engines) is pretty well built and I don't have a problem running it in the GS. I usually stay away from their spin on filters though.
As for filter, again doesn't' really matter here either. You can get FRAM (Not a favorite due to filter construction techniques) from Auto Zone and probably Wal Mart. If you want to order online that opens a ton of options. I'm not usually a fan of FRAM filters but their CH6000 (the one for these engines) is pretty well built and I don't have a problem running it in the GS. I usually stay away from their spin on filters though.
Last edited:
SHell Rotella T diesel oil (yes seriously). Either the 15w40 dinosaur version or the 5w-40 synthetic. It's VERY popular amongst all the older motorcycle riders (older bikes not riders).
The Gearbox "cuts" the long chains in the multigrade oil. 15w40 lasts longer than 10w-40 because it's not a multiple but you could use a 10-40 motorcycle or Diesel oil (or even a real cheap oil that's not energy conserving). Diesel oils are better as they have more zinc in them. Don't ask me to explain the actual chemistry!
I buy the K&N filters off Amazon because they are as cheap as any other but I've used all different brands.
There is a shed load of info on here or if you really want to check out the website "Bob is the oil guy"
The Gearbox "cuts" the long chains in the multigrade oil. 15w40 lasts longer than 10w-40 because it's not a multiple but you could use a 10-40 motorcycle or Diesel oil (or even a real cheap oil that's not energy conserving). Diesel oils are better as they have more zinc in them. Don't ask me to explain the actual chemistry!
I buy the K&N filters off Amazon because they are as cheap as any other but I've used all different brands.
There is a shed load of info on here or if you really want to check out the website "Bob is the oil guy"
Last edited:
How are you deciding it's nearly empty ?
How much can you see and is the bike on the main stand when checking ?
Is it running and is the oil pressure light working ?
I use 10W40 and 15W40 dino or semi-syn, preferably a formulation for light diesel trucks or cars built in the 90s.
I use Hi-flo filters. Cost about 3 or 4 Euro.
How much can you see and is the bike on the main stand when checking ?
Is it running and is the oil pressure light working ?
I use 10W40 and 15W40 dino or semi-syn, preferably a formulation for light diesel trucks or cars built in the 90s.
I use Hi-flo filters. Cost about 3 or 4 Euro.
G
Guest
Guest
You need to make sure you're measuring the oil level properly. Level ground, side to side and front to back. On the centre stand. It's doesn't take much at all to show that's it's empty or over full. DO NOT over fill the crankcase. Rotella 15-40 (diesel) any decent oil filter will do (Fram).
I use Rotella oil and HI FLO filter. Part number HF 133
The Suzuki specified method for checking the oil involves having the bike on the center stand and the engine cold. Start up the engine and let it run for a min. or so and then shut down, then check the oil level after allowing the oil to drain back down to the sump for a min. or two.
B
Bjones89
Guest
I've heard really good things about rotella t diesel oil I'ma pick up a jug
B
Bjones89
Guest
Thanks this forum is proving invaluable on my build
B
Bjones89
Guest
I'm finally getting my oil and filter change done...but I need 3.8 liters of oil wat kind of measuring cup I need for that type of measurement?
A GS 1000 doesn't take 3.8 LITRES !! It takes 3.8 US QUARTS !!!.
Put in 3Quarts and start the bike for a minute to fill the new filter and shut it off. Wait 2 minutes and fill to the F line on the clutch cover. Bike is on the center stand while filling.
Put in 3Quarts and start the bike for a minute to fill the new filter and shut it off. Wait 2 minutes and fill to the F line on the clutch cover. Bike is on the center stand while filling.
Last edited:
Steve
GS Whisperer
Very true. I responded to the question without checking the accuracy of the numbers.
My 850 has the same capacity, I just dump in the whole gallon.
.
Yes you can dump in the whole gallon with the only thing being the oil will fill the sight glass to the point there will be very very little air bubble at the top. The extra oil wont hurt the engine any.
HOWEVER..the good visible air bubble ( and knowing the oil is right at the "F" mark ) gives you two known visual "markers" to look at. And if for some unexplained reason the level goes up and becomes noticeable this is a good signal that "just maybe" the rise in oil level may be due to gas getting to the crankcase and a red flag should be going off in your brain to investigate things.
HOWEVER..the good visible air bubble ( and knowing the oil is right at the "F" mark ) gives you two known visual "markers" to look at. And if for some unexplained reason the level goes up and becomes noticeable this is a good signal that "just maybe" the rise in oil level may be due to gas getting to the crankcase and a red flag should be going off in your brain to investigate things.
Gumpster
Forum Apprentice
The actual spec is
3.6 qts oil only
4.0 qts oil and filter
4.4 after overhaul
i always change the filter with every oil change so a gallon jug of Rotella 15w-40 is perfect as mentioned. Good to see someone else from coastal Georgia on here. I'm a little further south at the Jekyll island exit. Best of luck.
3.6 qts oil only
4.0 qts oil and filter
4.4 after overhaul
i always change the filter with every oil change so a gallon jug of Rotella 15w-40 is perfect as mentioned. Good to see someone else from coastal Georgia on here. I'm a little further south at the Jekyll island exit. Best of luck.
Ive never had to use that full 4th Q when doing an oil change to get it to the F mark. I always have a little left over. But the manual says what it says.
B
Bjones89
Guest
Coastal Georgia in the house!
Dumpster...I see your gs grand has a welded and shimed clutch basket...wats that? And I'm good with putting the whole gallon of rotella (super cheap at Wal Mart btw I love it) in after I change the filter?
Dumpster...I see your gs grand has a welded and shimed clutch basket...wats that? And I'm good with putting the whole gallon of rotella (super cheap at Wal Mart btw I love it) in after I change the filter?
B
Bjones89
Guest
I ment GUMPSTER.... Stupid auto correct...
Gumpster
Forum Apprentice
https://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm
Attached is a link that explains a clutch rattle repair that usually is most prominent at idle. My 1000 was horrific but used this link to guide me through a successful repair. APE clutch nut is also advisable if you ever have to remove the clutch basket. If it's not making a racket, then no repair needed.
Attached is a link that explains a clutch rattle repair that usually is most prominent at idle. My 1000 was horrific but used this link to guide me through a successful repair. APE clutch nut is also advisable if you ever have to remove the clutch basket. If it's not making a racket, then no repair needed.
