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79 GS 1000 carb -Post rebuild problem/info Help !

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hello Folks,
Does Holly make a 4-BBL carb that will replace these 4 trouble maker carbs??? Just kiddin' I have a 79 GS 1000 that's sat since 1998. I removed, cleaned, & put new kits & O-rings in the carbs. I removed all adjustment screws & installed them to approx. stetting. I used to run a small engine shop so I thought I was capable. Lots of diff between Suzuki & Briggs & Stratton. Anyway, changed from stock jets to 120's. Has 4 into 1 exhaust(brand unknown). I bought Emgo pods & installed. Problem seams to be , will only run with choke on. That is on center stand, not riding. It only runs at a little above an idle. When throttle turned it pops some & dies. I haven't changed anything inside(needle positions or ?)...Been watching suggestions here for moving needle position but unsure if it pertains to my problem. I got this bike & have never had it running before it sat (since 1998). I have Clymers & Factory manuals which do not really address this problem. Bike has new oil & plugs @.28 gap...I never could get the stock air box back on. Please help with a detailed solution if possible or suggestions where to look!
Thanx in advance,
God Bless,
..T.J...
 
Only running on choke would indicate a lean condition, it will die when you open the butterflys and add even more air. Did you dip the carbs when you jetted them? Lots of tiny fuel passages that are hard to see in these carbs. How about the air jets? Are they free? Fuel won't flow from the bowls if they are plugged. Manifold o-rings intact? How about the manifold boots? Any air getting through these and you'll get nowhere. Is the vaccum line from the petcock to the carbs in place?
 
You have opened a bucket of worms. Your best bet is to through the emgo pods in a trash box & get the K&N filters & the K&N jet kit if you ever want it to run properly
 
I'm sorry to be a pain people, I've worked on a lot of bikes in my life, but have never had this much trouble with all of them put together..I just want to get it running so me & my wife will have something to ride on CMA events. We are on a limited budget & can't afford to by a running one big enough for 2 large people. I have a 500 Vulcan but its to light framed for us both to ride safely together.

1. As a starting point, should this thing run at all with just the stock air box removed with the stock #95 jets? Or are they that tempormental ? As stated it's sat since 1998 & I've never had it running. I did put #120's in at carb rebuild..
2. I don't mean to sound stupid actually being mechanically inclined & all, but when I removed the carbs I didn't notice any O-rings in the rubber carb boots, just a formed hump cast into the carb neck itself. Boots appear good.
3. I soaked the carbs in Berrymans for only about 4 hours to keep from endangering the few plastic pieces left on them. Could this be to little to get to stubborn clogged air passages somewhere. I probably answered my own question as I've seen this happen in chainsaw carbs, moisture will oxidize in these places & you can't get it out & a new carb is the only option with those air passages being so tiny.
Thanx for all your help guys,
God Bless,
..T.J...
 
1. As a starting point, should this thing run at all with just the stock air box removed with the stock #95 jets? Or are they that tempormental ? As stated it's sat since 1998 & I've never had it running. I did put #120's in at carb rebuild..
Click to expand...
These bikes are very sensitive as to air fuel mix so it probably won't run much at all with out the stock air box or some type of air filter. If you are going to try to run aftermarket filters you will need to re-jet the carbs, which is a total PITA.
2. I don't mean to sound stupid actually being mechanically inclined & all, but when I removed the carbs I didn't notice any O-rings in the rubber carb boots, just a formed hump cast into the carb neck itself. Boots appear good.
Click to expand...
If you have them they would be under the carb intake boots (between the boots and head). I don't think that your bike has them.
3. I soaked the carbs in Berrymans for only about 4 hours to keep from endangering the few plastic pieces left on them. Could this be to little to get to stubborn clogged air passages somewhere. I probably answered my own question as I've seen this happen in chainsaw carbs, moisture will oxidize in these places & you can't get it out & a new carb is the only option with those air passages being so tiny.
Click to expand...
After you soak them blow all of the passage ways out with compressed air if you have it, if not use the spray cans of carb cleaner to make sure the passages are clear.
 
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