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79 gs 750EL turned the wrong screw HELP

  • Thread starter Thread starter confused honda owner
  • Start date Start date
C

confused honda owner

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I just put pod filters and synced my carbs. well before i synced them i wanted to clean them so i pulled them off and checked it all out. while doing that i removed the screw on the bottom that goes through the float bowel so when it was time to put it back together i was going to use the book to tell me how much to screw it out but all it says is not to touch it. i need to know were to set it becuase my bike is a pain to get off the line it bogs bad but midrange is awsome and it idles perfect. i also am wondering if going to 105 mains with pods would give my top range a boost or is that to big it has 102.5 now. i cant seem to find any info on what the screw is even called or what is for. i really need help my bike is my main form of transportation to work. :eek:
 
hi babes.
on my bike (CV carbs) the screw in the bottom of the float bowl is the float bowl drain screw....

has yours got slide carbs? if yes, im sure someone else will come along to help you...

on the question ov jets... sounds like the pilot jets are ok, and the needle height too but to me, 105 main jets still seem a bit small for pods (if you have a 4-1 minimal baffled exhaust but if you have standard exhaust its probably about right...) do a plug chop at the revs it boggs down on and see what they say, could be too rich, could be too lean...
does it pop and backfire when decelerating?

more info please.

XXX


XXX
 
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Those screws are called the Pilot Fuel Screws. Factory setting was in the range of 7/8 of one turn open.

Installing pods drastically changes the intake airflow, and subsequently changes the jetting requirements. Accounting for this change is not as simple as just bumping the main jet one size.
 
Seana23 said:
......... well...... what is it as simple as then...?

Captain Mystery Man.

XXXX
Click to expand...

Simple, reinstall the factory Suzuki airbox and leave the jetting stock. Silly girl.:p
 
thats so boring!!! we want sucky sounding pods and raspy exhausts!!!

BBBBRRRRAAAAPPPPPPPPPPFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF!!!

WOOHOO!
xxx
 
ok i tried 7/8 turn out still no change. i have slide carbs. it just bogs from idle to 3grand. has stock exhuast. i bought pods becuase the air box was missing the cage and air filter. didnt want to spend the the extra money to buy stock parts when a little extra power would be nice.the screw in front of the float bowel on the bottom is the pilot screw and the screw on top is what.
 
How's that "little extra power" working out for you now?

As Ed said, the screw on the bottom is the pilot fuel screw

The screw on the side is the pilot air screw - it should be 1 1/2 - 2 turns out

How did you clean your carbs if you never removed the pilot air screw?

Did this bike run in your care before you started down the pod path?

Go back to Ed's post and click the Top Newbie mistakes and see where you rank
 
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You need to re-jet for pods, and it will take a lot of trial and error. But the idle is the easiest part of that. So strip and dip the carbs, adjust the valves, and otherwise get the maintenance up to date before fiddling with jets.

FOr jets, what pipe do you have on the bike? 4-1 or stock?

My bike is the same as yours, and my modifications and jetting is in my sig. It still is not quite right though.
 
Seana23 said:
......... well...... what is it as simple as then...?

Captain Mystery Man.

XXXX
Click to expand...

Ed meant it's a royal pain in the a$$ and not simple at all. That's the price you pay for pods & a 4-1. Many will get frustrated and bag it, and some of those never stood a chance because they did not do the required maintenance before starting.

But if you have the patience and perseverance you can get your bike running right. There is no one size fits all, every bike will be different.

We pretty much have a base line for the '78 750E but it is only the starting point.
 
Check (replace) the orings between the Carb manifolds and the head while you have the carbs out for proper cleaning.

Proper cleaning you ask? Use the link in my sig, find the Carb tutorial, and do it right.

The manifold orings are a MAJOR cause of air leaks that cause all sorts of strange issues.

And, YES. You will need to re jet for pods. If you don't, you will run too lean, overheat the bike, burn holes in your pistons, burn valves, and basically never get your bike to run well while it still does run.

Not all pods are created the same either. Emgo pods will cost you way less, but will never allow you to tune your carbs even if you re jet. K&N are way over priced, APE pods are ok, you might be able to tune the bike after re jetting... depends on the weather that day. Of course, if the weather changes, you will have to re tune your carbs ... again. ..
 
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Oh ya, my 80 850 with a Kerker 4 >1 and APE pods, runs like a raped ape from idle to WOT. It only took me the better part of six months to get there.. . I don't ride in off weather, so I tuned it on a nice day.
 
I ride mine every day rain or shine without tuning issues. Dynojet does make a stage 3 jet kit for my bike which makes it a lot easier to dial in because of the superior taper of the needles. It's still not a walk in the park to get it right. The only thing I have noticed about rain is when the bike has been parked in a downpour, a fast roll on might cause a little sputtering from pod #4 until it dries itself out. Don't roll it on, it's not noticeable. Having said that, if you got your bike with a good set of stock pipes, I would recommend getting an air box if you don't have one, get it running right and don't modify it. Any power gain is negligible. The only real up side is easy access to the battery, but that's not worth the work or the hassle. None of this works unless you do the proper maintenance. You wasted your time on your carbs, they can't be cleaned without all components removed, soaked in dip at least 24hrs before spraying out with carb cleaner, compressed air, small wire run through the passages to insure they are opened and free of any blockage, O-rings replaced, boots replaced (unless you got extremely lucky and they are still supple and don't leak), valves adjusted, etc.
 
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