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'79 GS1000 baseline help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Throttlejock
  • Start date Start date
T

Throttlejock

Guest
Just picked this bike up last week and it feels much slower than it should, basically empty on acceleration. It's gone 33k miles so far, 300 in the last 3 years, and doesn't appear to have been well maintained. Carbs are torn apart at the moment for cleaning and Mr. Barr has an o-ring kit on the way. Valve adjustment is on the to-do list as well but it would be nice to get the carbs closer before putting it all together again.

Jets are stock 95/15 and the one needle I've taken out is in the 3rd slot from the top. Air screws were all about 1 1/4 turn out except for #1 which was an extra 1/4 turn and the only one that lined up with the notch. I got in too big of a hurry and didn't check the pilot screws, but they were all in noticeably different positions and the #1 pilot screw had a different head on it.

image.jpg

The bike still has the stock air box with what looks like a new filter, and an open header. I'm at 1300ft here in Kansas and was wondering if I should step up to 100 for the mains? Should I leave the needle as it is? And I think I read somewhere that the pilot screws are set 1 turn out for exhaust. Is this true?
 
No if anything you need smaller mains for higher elevation but at only 1300' that's not required. Check the can timing. It's off a tooth our two on a lot of old bikes, can cause a very gutless engine. Could be a clogged exhaust too. Probably a bunch of little things wrong so check everything.
 
I just got a little worried seeing guys with much bigger mains with not a lot of mods. I'm still pretty green to all this but I have the manual pulled up on my phone so hopefully I'll get it figured out. Exhaust doesn't seem clogged but couldn't hurt to pull it off and be sure.
 
I highly recommend that you get a legit header (which those are not) or a set of stock pipes. Stock pipes are tough to come by but a Vance and Hines header will only set you back about $365. Those open pipes don't scavenge properly if at all and it probably doesn't endear you to your neighbors (and law enforcement).
 
Good god man, get a muffler on that thing or you are just wasting your time trying to tune it.
 
What's the opinion on MAC 4-1? Always had a thing for black exhaust but can't find a Vance and Hines set that isn't chrome or polished.
 
This San Diego CL seller may work with you on shipping to KS. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mpo/5463917044.html


[h=2]SUZUKI GS1000 EXHAUST - $200 (EAST COUNTY) [/h]
00505_aHzk998vZkV_600x450.jpg



This exhaust came off a 1979 Suzuki GS1000. May fit other years. Good shape. Please call 619.249.612O. Thanks.
 
Awesome. Thank you. I wonder how much shipping would be though. The MAC I found was about $300 brand new with free shipping
 
Seller isn't sure what exhaust it is. If I go this route, should I up the main jets to 100? Based on the chart I found, it says to go up 2 sizes for 4-1, up one for drilling air box, minus 1 size after total. 100 still seems small compared to other guys, and V&H say to go up to 117.5 or somewhere around there for their exhaust. There seems to be a lot of information out there, but it's conflicting.
 
Alright, brass tacks. At 1300' elevation, with stock airbox and Mac 4-1 with or without a competition baffle, what should I do? Currently stock main and pilot jets and the needle clip is 2nd from bottom. I would prefer to buy proper sized jets than drill the stock, in case I forget and/or sell the bike.
 
try a 17.5 - 112 first - adjust the needle - if you remove the airbox and baffle you will need a bigger main but the pilot rarely needs to be upped to a 20 no matter what you do. I have tried a 20 many times but have always returned to the 17.5 - it works on vm26/vm28 for gs1000/kz1000 -

it's approximate science thanks to internal wear and weather wish it was an exact science but it is not.
 
That seems a bit radical for exhaust and drilled airbox. Up about 6 or 7 sizes on the main? And it turned out I was wrong about the needle. It looks like they are also at stock setting. Is there an easier way to remove the clip? I'm having a hell of a time getting any of them off.
 
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