79 gs1000 upgrades

[ccriley6]

Got what i believe is a 79 model gs 1000. Looking to get all the power i can out of it. Any simple mods/tuning? It has dyna coils, ngk stock plugs, and original vm26 carbs.
Been looking into new pods, the uni foam ones in particular.....any insight? TIA

 

[niclpnut]

K&n pods or equivalent like ape and a dynojet kit.

 

[Guest]

K&n pods or equivalent like ape and a dynojet kit.

+1, along with a good 4-1 pipe. After that it needs internal engine work.


Mark

 

[rudeman]

get all of the periodic maintenance up to snuff first. Valve adjustment, ignition timing, and carb balance. If you're going to rejet, you can spend $139 for DynoJet Kit or assemble the needed jets yourself for a lot less $. There's a guide for getting some baselines for rejetting in a post. If you do a search you should be able to find it.

Here's one of 'em:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Pods-Pipes-Panic!-(Help!-Your-Bike-has-Pods)

Here's another:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?194050-Help!-Your-Bike-Won-t-Run-Well

 

[Nessism]

After you add a header and pods your wallet will be $500+ lighter and the bike still won't be as fast as a street punks 600. When it comes to vintage equipment it's best to be content with the power and work to keep the bike in good working order. If the stock exhaust is falling apart that obviously is different though.

 

[Guest]

If you're going to rejet, you can spend $139 for DynoJet Kit or assemble the needed jets yourself for a lot less $.

There are a couple good reasons to get a jet kit. First, if OP's carbs don't have an adjustable needle it is very hard to get the midrange correct without it. Second, you never buy just one set of jets when sorting the carburation. You usually end up with 4 or 5 sets of mains and maybe two sets of pilots. If OP has an adjustable needle and a decent baseline from someone else to start with then it might be cheaper to just buy jets on his own. I'm not saying he HAS to buy a jet kit, just that it is a nice one stop purchase for everything that has been tested as a combo and comes with all you should need to make things work with minimal screwing around. I bought loose jets for my 1100E because it had adjustable OEM needles and was part way sorted by the PO so I wasn't working in the dark on what I needed for main jets. With fixed needles I would have bought the jet kit.

After you add a header and pods your wallet will be $500+ lighter and the bike still won't be as fast as a street punks 600. When it comes to vintage equipment it's best to be content with the power and work to keep the bike in good working order. If the stock exhaust is falling apart that obviously is different though.

That depends on what OP's goals are. If he wants a fast bike then you are correct, it is a waste of time and money. However, if he wants period correct mods and a faster, more fun GS to ride then pods and a pipe are perfectly reasonable.


Mark

 

[SVSooke]

After you add a header and pods your wallet will be $500+ lighter and the bike still won't be as fast as a street punks 600. When it comes to vintage equipment it's best to be content with the power and work to keep the bike in good working order. If the stock exhaust is falling apart that obviously is different though.

Before you get worried about that to much this 1000 engine is in a mini pull tractor not a bike.Been kinda following the OP with it.

 

[GregT]

Before you get worried about that to much this 1000 engine is in a mini pull tractor not a bike.Been kinda following the OP with it.

Well that's different...tuning for torque is a much more interesting ballgame.
Compression, capacity and close lobe centers on std cams with smallish carbs and the early smallport head.
Probably going to have to build a pipe for the application. Headers 1 1/2in OD and 30in long. Tailpipe for torque, 1 7/8in OD and around 24in before whatever muffler you have to run.
I'd assume for the length of run time that a charging system isn't needed. I'd seriously look at making up a heavier solid rotor to replace the alternator. Some additional crank mass wouldn't go amiss. Look at the clutch backplate too.
Could be fun.

 

[Big T]

Well that's different...tuning for torque is a much more interesting ballgame.
Compression, capacity and close lobe centers on std cams with smallish carbs and the early smallport head.
Probably going to have to build a pipe for the application. Headers 1 1/2in OD and 30in long. Tailpipe for torque, 1 7/8in OD and around 24in before whatever muffler you have to run.
I'd assume for the length of run time that a charging system isn't needed. I'd seriously look at making up a heavier solid rotor to replace the alternator. Some additional crank mass wouldn't go amiss. Look at the clutch backplate too.
Could be fun.

CC

Follow Greg T's advise. He's a superbike builder with decades of experience.

Proper tune, adjustable cam sprockets and a header as described should be what you're looking for, inexpensively

Then, shave the head and get a big bore kit,which gets you into $$$

 

[ccriley6]

Wow, thanks for all the replies. It currently has a 4-1 pipe but no muffler. I plan on cleaning and balancing the carbs before my next pull. Jus want it to be 100% b4 i do. Def gonna look into some new pods, valve adj, and timing. Thanks fellas....wishd i new how to post a vid id show all yall my first hook from july 3

 

[ccriley6]

Well that's different...tuning for torque is a much more interesting ballgame.
Compression, capacity and close lobe centers on std cams with smallish carbs and the early smallport head.
Probably going to have to build a pipe for the application. Headers 1 1/2in OD and 30in long. Tailpipe for torque, 1 7/8in OD and around 24in before whatever muffler you have to run.
I'd assume for the length of run time that a charging system isn't needed. I'd seriously look at making up a heavier solid rotor to replace the alternator. Some additional crank mass wouldn't go amiss. Look at the clutch backplate too.
Could be fun.

Yes, it has no charging system....i have a dyna battery monitor on my dash and keep a hot battery on it. Supposedly has an aftermarket clutch and has been rejetted. It currently has old cheap looking pods. Also has dyna coils and ignition but i have no clue what model and how to go about checking them out.

 

[GregT]

I had a spare 1000 motor here I seriously thought about putting in a racing lawnmower, LOL...then sanity hit.

Pull the ignition cover on the RH side of the crank. If it still has a centrifugal advancer (you can turn the trigger piece freely) it's a Dyna S.
If it has a fixed trigger and there's a blue box somewhere in the ignition wiring it's probably a Dyna 2000. Either are good for your application.

 

[Big T]

Def gonna look into some new pods, valve adj, and timing. Thanks fellas....wishd i new how to post a vid id show all yall my first hook from july 3

Check the BassCliff site for all of your answers on tuning and posting videos

Go to GS Owners/ New Owners, Click Here!

 

[ccriley6]

I had a spare 1000 motor here I seriously thought about putting in a racing lawnmower, LOL...then sanity hit.

Pull the ignition cover on the RH side of the crank. If it still has a centrifugal advancer (you can turn the trigger piece freely) it's a Dyna S.
If it has a fixed trigger and there's a blue box somewhere in the ignition wiring it's probably a Dyna 2000. Either are good for your application.

There is a small black dyna box that is part of the ignition/coils

 

[GregT]

I don't recognise that version - but someone here will.

 

[Guest]

Probably a Dyna III