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80 gs750 airbox

  • Thread starter Thread starter PaulNic
  • Start date Start date
P

PaulNic

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I have two small problems. 1. Anybody have any tricks to get the airbox reconnected to the rear of the carbs? The boots are still soft. 1980 L stock.

2. I have replaced the air filter on my 1980E with pods. Now what do i do with the breather hose?

I would like to thank all those that came before me as i have already gleaned many helpful tips that have made my life so much easier.

Paul
 
"....1980 L stock."

Didn't you say that you got pods ?

Anyways, get helper and wrestle carbs into boots
I hope you noticed all the stuff about rejetting in your gleaning!
 
Two Bikes

Two Bikes

My 80L is stock. I just love the way they look. My 80E has pods, i have bobbed it, and YES!!! that was one of my "gleans" a very important one too. Right now i have taped up the pods as i can not afford new jets right now. I have noticed what looks like a fine mist of oil coming from the open end of the breather hose and i don't think i should just close it off.
 
My Babies./Users/pauldagwood/Desktop/1980L.jpg/Users/pauldagwood/Desktop/1980E Bobber.jpg
 
I wrote this in answer to another person having the same difficulties.
I saved this as a txt so I could share again without all the typing.

Take note as to the order of attachment as this will make it so much simpler then what you are trying now.

What you need to do is attach the airbox to carb boots first.

After that you twist in the head to carb boots.

This is what I do to get the carbs/airbox/filter housing in the correct placement.
Remove the filter housing.
Loosen the airbox to frame bolts to where they will just hold in the airbox. (this will give you a bit of room to slide airbox around without the agrivation of trying to get the bolts back in when everything else is proper and tight)
Use a object to hold the carbs up level to bike for attaching the choke and throttle cables. (the right side works best and you want your carb stand high enough to hold the carbs up with cables attached so you can take a breather without having to hang the carbs off the cables)
Attach the choke and carb cables being sure the carbs will insert into airbox without twisting the cables.
Slide carbs into correct area while insuring the clutch cable is gently positioned into bracket on side of carbs for it. (the clutch cable will hang them up otherwise)
Slide carbs onto airbox boots and tighten clamps while making sure the boots are positioned correctly on carbs.
(I am sure many peoples airboxes are warped around the boot area and after attaching to carbs correctly you can use some heat to let the carbs pull it back into shape)


Boots at head.
Start with the two innermost boots and push smallest area of boot into largest gap between carbs and head and twist back and forth to seat them.
Temporarily reattach the filter housing to the airbox and position the two seated boots by twisting them to level out and correctly position the filter housing.
Remove the filter housing again.
Mark the top center on the two boots with a paint marker or a piece of tape.( They will be offset from each other,make sure the area is clean first and the paint drys well before next stage)
Put the two remaining boots on using the same method. (the marks on the other boots are in case you have to move them to get the two outside boots into position)
Make sure the boots are all seated correctly and not causing each other to bind at all.
Tighten clamps. (be sure to position screws on clamps to where they will not interact with the throttle or choke)
Tighten the airbox to frame bolts.

I clean and mark my head to carb boots before I remove them so less trouble the next time.

If you have any questions I am sending a PM with my number.
 
Thanks, that makes sense. My air box is concave. What do i do about the air breather hose on my bobber. I don't want it blowing oil on the tranny and i don't think i should just close it off.
 
They make filters for that purpose.
I am sure there are other brands but K&N has one.
May even find one for a mower that would fit.
I have seen bikes where people will buy a longer length of hose and attach a canister of there choice to catch any oil.
If you go that route, make sure there is some venting for the pressure to roll out the condensation.
Would choose something I could see through in case I ever did need to empty.
The possibilities of what to use would be endless.
Find something that goes with the shape or theme of your project.
 
Yeah, take the air box off, take the bolts out of the front box so it hangs loose. Install the carbs to the air box boots first, don't clamp down yet. Take the head boots and start in the middle and work out. Rotate the head boots so they are seated just right. Clamp the head boots first, then the air box boots and replace everything else. DO NOT use anything sharp to install the boots! It takes a bit of wiggling around and aligning though you'll get it. One person can do it, I have done many a time by myself.

Just make sure you use the OEM clamps for the boots, especially the rear boots to the air cleaner. When I reinstall the boots, I usually take some turtle wax dash cleaner (or something of that nature) and wipe the insides of the boots with it. Makes them a bit more slippery when you go to install, they slide in much easier. Get the alignments down and clamp and button up the air box.
 
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