• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

81 850 g

ron bayless

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I picked it up today.The previous owner had disconnected things,,trying to find out why the bike didnt start.My phone is dead, and dont have a manual.i will post pictures tomorrow.On the right side he disconnected wires going down from the handlebar switch.He exposed 1 orange white,1 orange,i green with yellow.I dont know why.I will reconnect 1 orange white to the cut orange white, and the other orange white to the orange.I haven had time to look on the schematic yet.Also he had the black lead on the solenoid so loose you could easily move it.He didnt even have a wire on the other terminal.He also had 2 black boxex dangling down from under the left sidecover.I dont know what those might be yet.I never looked in there on my other gs bike.One looks like it might be the igniter.I hope he didnt fry up a lot of things.
 
Go on bikecliff's website and download the shop manual for it. If not you're just spinning your wheels.
 
The orange/white wires are power to and from the kill switch. One of them should probably have a red sleeve over it, that will be the 'hot' wire from the battery. The other one will go to the coils and ignitor.

The green/yellow wire goes from the starter button, through the "safety" switch at the clutch lever, then down to the starter solenoid.

Items under the left side cover generally include the ignitor, the fusebox and the starter solenoid.

Both large wires on the solenoid are usually black. One will go to the battery + terminal, the other will go to the starter.

.
 
Steve, from the handlebar switch it has a solid orange and an orange white.Coming from the bike is 2 orange white.I suspect hook it up one way, see if the ignition system works, if not switch the wires.It would be real hard to go through the harness and trace it down to either the solenoid or igniter.
 
Steve, from the handlebar switch it has a solid orange and an orange white.Coming from the bike is 2 orange white.I suspect hook it up one way, see if the ignition system works, if not switch the wires.It would be real hard to go through the harness and trace it down to either the solenoid or igniter.
You have a test light or a voltmeter? :-k

One of those orange/white wires will be 'live' when the key is turned on, the other will not.

To determine which wire to connect to on the switch side of the connector, use a jumper wire from the battery + terminal, connect it to one of the switch-side wires. Move the Engine Stop switch to OFF. Press the starter button. If the starter engages, connect your 'live' wire to the other orange/white wire. If the starter does NOT engage, move the Engine Stop switch to RUN, press the starter button again. If it engages this time, you have the correct wire.

Click HERE to get a good wiring diagram from BassCliff's site. It's for an '80, but it's virtually the same as your bike.

.
 
last one.And i do follow you steve, on the orange wire checking out.I work nights, still tired.

IMG_20130912_161516.jpg (43.4 KB)
 
one orange,one brown,one gray,one red.orange and red look to be 14 ga and brown and grey are 16 ga.my connector is crumbling away.The key i got wont work, the previous owner guy says thats the key.locksmith says no it isnt, it is a yamaha key.guy lives to far to go get one, so took the ign switch out, thats when i found the destroyed connector.I have the male and female connector and pins plus the tool from vintage connections to replace it.I have never done that before.So I have no key,no switch cause the locksmith closed and wont be back till monday.Can I hotwire it using the wires I wrote here.I would at least like to hear it turn over and see if the other wires i reconnected are right.i have seen toggles in place instead of keyed ign before, I want to do that temporarily.It looks like the orange would be to the ignitor, the red to the solenoid, the gray and brown i dont know.Even if i made the connector I can only do 1 half because the other half is locked up in a locksmith shop.Any input appreciated.I know I can go across the solenoid terminals and make the engine turn over, but i wanted to try starting it.it last ran in march 2013.
 
Order a replacement ignition off ebay. In the meantime, get a wiring diagram and label the wires so you can see what is going on. While you are labeling you can also clean the connectors and see if any need to be replaced. I can see from the pics that there are pods on the bike, I'm sure that is going to be real fun to tune :rolleyes:
 
I already am getting hopefully the ignition switch sorted out by the locksmith guy,if not will buy another ignition.Some of these connectors have had it.They were marlex material from what i read and are much better if replaced with new materials.I guess i dont know what you mean by difficult tuning with pods.i much prefer them to the cumbersome stock airbox. You have to have a guage, make the adjustments.Just like always.
 
I guess i dont know what you mean by difficult tuning with pods.i much prefer them to the cumbersome stock airbox. You have to have a guage, make the adjustments.Just like always.

You will need to make far more adjustments on a bike with pods than with a stock airbox. If a jet kit is available for your bike use it, if not you will find it challenging to get the bike running well.
 
one orange,one brown,one gray,one red.orange and red look to be 14 ga and brown and grey are 16 ga.my connector is crumbling away. ... Can I hotwire it using the wires I wrote here. ... It looks like the orange would be to the ignitor, the red to the solenoid, the gray and brown i dont know.
If you only want to fire it up (and not take it on the road), all you need to do is to connect the red and orange wires.

The red wire is the hot wire from the battery (via the MAIN fuse), the orange wire goes back to feed the other fuses in the fuse box.

The gray wire is fed by the LIGHTS fuse, the brown wire goes straight to the tail light. :-k
The tail light is separated from the other lights so it can be illuminated by itself when the key is in the PARK position. Normally, the brown wire is fed by the gray wire when the key is in RUN, which also connects the red and orange wires to provide power to the whole bike. In PARK, the brown wire is connected to the red wire, providing power only to the tail light, at least until the battery goes dead in a half hour or so. :-\\\

.
 
Thanks steve.I dont know how you know all this.I wont ever drive a bike with wires like that, but it is good to know in case of emergency sometime.Hopefully the guy will fix the ignition key on monday.If not I will look online for one.The ones they sell at autozone are for keys which could eventually be wired up but it would be hard to figure out.I will buy a bike ignition if necessary. And the other gentleman that posted ere about pods, I never had problems with my other gs with pods. Thanks for your expertise.
 
Thanks steve.I dont know how you know all this.
I am comfortable with electrical problems and I can read a wiring diagram.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
I tried 3 times to pm you.It didnt work for some reason.In short, thank you so much for your help.The previous owner obviously didnt know what he was doing.I will unziptie the igniter and ground it properly.Hopefully I will get the igniton switch back today.if he cant get a key to work i will buy a new switch.The original one had all the settings written on it,like on,off,park,run.I doubt the new one will.Heres hoping.
 
i think these 2 wires are right

i think these 2 wires are right

Looks like he didnt mess this up.One red wire, about 12 gauge wrapped in cloth goes to igniter.other one goes to positive post of battery. IMG_20130915_103058.jpg (38.1 KB)
 
Back
Top