81 gs1000 g

[zaipai]

Thanks, I found the wires. No problem now. However I just need the carb rebuild kit and manifold rings etc.. All in good time, this will be a long project.. One that pays off big in the end.. At least that is my hope..

.: Scott :.

 

[zaipai]

Before taking it apart

Before taking it apart

Its been a while, I have been working allot of hours at work including weekends. Well here is one last picture (after cleaning her up) of how she sits today. I have some vacation time coming up here next week so I hope to be doing some work on it, starting with the carbs. I still have not been able to start her, but I need a T connector for the gas line. However, I need to get moving on this bike. I really want to take it out and get some riding on it.

Well till next week!

 

[Guest]

Just to let you know

Just to let you know

I built my 1980 GS1000 from boxes of parts and a doner bike. My first time. With a repair manual and a lot of help from this sight. You don't even need a whole lot of tools. When it comes to the carb rebuild all I needed was all the O-rings. I think the Kits from the parts store would be a waste of money. Follow the directions keep things organized. It will not run without the aircleaner on. And no air leaks. Make sure you have a good flow of gas from the tank to the carbs. My bike is very picky about gas and air mixture if its not right it will run bad. I just shimed the carb needles on mine, easy job and it runs great. I made some mistakes . All part of the fun.

 

[zaipai]

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks for the info.. However I bought the kits.. errr.. Oh well I guess it can't hurt. Any tips for the exhausts? The ones that are on there are rusted on the bottom so I want to replace them with a good after market exhaust.

Thanks,
Scott..

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info.. However I bought the kits.. errr.. Oh well I guess it can't hurt. Any tips for the exhausts? The ones that are on there are rusted on the bottom so I want to replace them with a good after market exhaust.

Thanks,
Scott..

I'm not sure you get all the O-Rings you need in the Rebuild kits. The T's in the fuel tube that feeds the carbs all have O-Rings too. I used old stock exhaust on mine. Painted the pipes black out of the engine and left the back part chrome. The paint came off. Don't know about after market.

 

[zaipai]

Thanks Mike, I have found 2 after market pipe's but not sure I like them all that much.. Gonna keep looking as any mod's will happen over the winter. Right now I just want to get it started so I know for sure it runs before I start investing money in it. So far every thing shows it should start and run.. So tomorrow I plan to try and start it once more before I take apart the carbs. I really can't wait to get her running and see how she rides..

Happy 4th to all!

.: Scott :.

 

[Steve]

Thanks Larry, Nes and Dog... I did read cliffs page. ...

Just one page? :-k
Must be, you have only had it for two days.

There is so much to read on BassCliff's site, you can be fully entertained for days, no, weeks. :-\\\

..., but I need a T connector for the gas line. ...

What "T connector"? There is only one that I know of, and they almost never need replacement.

However I bought the kits.. errr.. Oh well I guess it can't hurt. ...

On the contrary, YES, THEY CAN HURT.

Too many times, the brass parts in the kits are made of sub-standard quality parts and do not work as well as the stock parts.
When you get your o-rings and carb dip, please just clean your stock jets very well and re-use them.
Only use the kits as a last resort, and only if the stock jets are totally destroyed.

.

 

[zaipai]

Carb Woes..

Carb Woes..

Thanks for the advice Steve, I will use the stock ones if at all possible. I only got the kits to use the gaskets etc.. Not so much for the jets..

I did hook up the T connector today, I needed one because the one that was there was missing when I got the bike, I suspect that it was used for some other bike. Once I had every thing hooked up, gas lines, vacuum lines etc.. I turned on the gas, and nothing.. Well I remember reading the petcock is vacuum activated however there is an over ride setting, so I moved the lever and sure enough gas started to flow. I know it was cause the lines are yellow see thru so I could see the gas flowing. So I hit the starter.. then again.. pulled the choke, it was warm out but I figured maybe it would help and hit the starter again.. Well after a few times of this, gas started flowing out of the air box..?! Is that normal of carbs that need rebuilding? I assume that means I need to crack the carbs open, so I went ahead and using BassCliffs instructions removed the air box and the carbs. They are currently draining the left over gas and later tonight I plan to start taking them apart and cleaning them in the gumout carb cleaner I picked up. Wish me luck..

One other question, I have to check for spark, before I do is there any thing in the headlight bucket that could keep the coils from sparking?? The head light was taken apart and I don't have most of it (see picture below) so I just need to know if I need to look for disconnected wires that would normally go in the headlight bucket. My old Honda has 2 wires in the head light that if disconnected would keep it from starting. So I figure better safe then sorry.

Oh.. The very top of the motor, is very yellow, seems I did not escape that. Any tips for getting rid of the tarnish? Off to scourer the forums to look for some answers.

BTW: Holy cow, Basscliff's site is an amazing book of knowledge.. Dang.. Its going to take me a long time to go thru it all.. Thank goodness he did that.. Its a tremendous help and it could not have been that easy for him to put all that together!

Thanks!

Scott..

 

[zaipai]

Carb Day

Carb Day

Well I took the carbs off. They came off super easy, now I know why. The PO must have taken them off at one point, and when the PO put them back on the PO must have not tightened them back up all the way. There was red goop all over the front of the carbs, and the boots that have the O rings were rusted and corroded so I bet they were not on very tight. I am not sure.. However look at the image, the insides of the carbs are very clean, the picture below is seconds after I took them off.

More later..

Scott..

 

[Guest]

Red stuff?

Red stuff?

Well I took the carbs off. They came off super easy, now I know why. The PO must have taken them off at one point, and when the PO put them back on the PO must have not tightened them back up all the way. There was red goop all over the front of the carbs, and the boots that have the O rings were rusted and corroded so I bet they were not on very tight. I am not sure.. However look at the image, the insides of the carbs are very clean, the picture below is seconds after I took them off.

More later..

Scott..

I wonder what the red stuff is. Could it be that red gasket goop from a tube.

 

[zaipai]

I wonder what the red stuff is. Could it be that red gasket goop from a tube.

Yea, I suspect that is what it is. I can't find any reason the PO would have done that but there it is. It's gone now tho. However now when I put the fuel valve in a position to have the gas flow, it runs out of the air holes in the two left carbs (as you sit on the bike) so I have some investigating to do to figure that one out.

Scott...

 

[850 Combat]

gas leakes out because the float valves are not stopping it from doing so. Chances are that this is because there is crud in them, or they are worn out. More than likely, it is both.

 

[zaipai]

Bas leakes out because the float valves are not stopping it from doing so. Chances are that this is because there is crud in them, or they are worn out. More than likely, it is both.

Then its the floats? I replaced the float needle and the tube they sit in with new ones from the kit I got. I did go out and play with it some, I turned it to Pri again and the other two carbs started leaking, but not the left two as happened before. So just out of desperation, I gapped the plugs (.025in) and squirted some gas in each cylinder and replaced the plugs and tried it again and she tried to start, in fact got a big old back fire from it. So I suspect its the carbs. The main problem at this point is that bar that runs along the bottom that holds the carbs together.. has screws I can't get out because they are frozen in. So I am going to try again tomorrow and use some WD40 first..

Its getting there.. I think.

M Gosh 850 Combat where do you store all those bikes, and more over how do you find time to ride them all...?

Scott...

 

[Steve]

Thanks for the advice Steve, I will use the stock ones if at all possible. I only got the kits to use the gaskets etc.. Not so much for the jets.. ....

Those would be some mighty expensive gaskets.

Carb kits are usually about $20 or so each. You can get bowl gaskets for about $4 each.

However look at the image, the insides of the carbs are very clean, the picture below is seconds after I took them off.

Nice picture, but that's not where they need to be clean.

Remove the jets, take a look at the tiny holes behind them. THOSE are what need to be clean. :-\\\

Depending on how long the bike has been sitting, those little passages will gunk up and the best way to clean them out is to take the carbs completely apart, according to the carb cleaning guide and dip them. You will need to get that bottom rail off, though. Don't waste your money on WD-40 if you are wanting to remove stuck screws. WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. By the way, it's not much of an OIL, either, but that's another topic. Use PB Blaster for your penetrating oil, but you will likely be able to remove those screws without any oil if you would simply use the correct tools. Use an impact driver with a #3 Phillips bit.

.

 

[Guest]

impact driver

impact driver

I had to use an Impact driver. to get the screws out of the rack. I think its the best way and won't mess up the screw heads. Be careful. Impact drivers do not cost much. And there good to get side covers off to. Also if you have to drill the little caps out to get to the airscrews take it real easy do not drill into the screw. Then you will have to use a screw driver that fits real good. Mine were locked in with a drop of paint from the factory. After almost buggering the slot up on the airscrews someone on the site told me to put paint remover on the screws and wait then turn them in and out till they come loose.

 

[zaipai]

Good news.. Kinda

Good news.. Kinda

Well good news kinda..

I took some starting fluid and turned the gas on Pri and sprayed the starting fluid in the carbs and it tried to start, I did this a few more times (at this point gas is leaking out of all the cabs) and she started and ran. In fact it would idle and I have to say it ran smooth as silk given, there were no air filters on, and gas streaming out the back of the carbs. Once I turned the gas lever so it was straight up and down, it would run for a bit then stall, as if it would run out of gas. Then I figured it out. I only had a little gas in the tank, so I moved the lever to directly across from PRI position and started it up and she ran great, a few moments later the gas started streaming out of the back of the carbs again. So all this means, I definitely have to rebuild the carbs further then I am comfortable with. I am a complete newb here and really dont want to do it. However I can not afford to have the shop do it, so..

PB Blaster is out of the question, I have not found it any place around here. I saw a thread about it, so I went up to the local auto store and no dice. WD40 is a penetrating oil, and while it does not work great, it does work and its better then nothing. I can try the impact wrench, however first I have to stop some place and find one. Seem's that maybe the best option.

I am not sure exactly what you mean by removing the caps however I think I know.. If I run across that I will have some paint remover handy just in case. Thanks for the tip.

Lord, this could be a complete disaster, maybe I will see if I can find a step by step guide on it some place. Carb rebuilds make me very nervous.

I will take a Video of the gas coming out and post it once my wife and kid are back from the beach.

Wish me luck guys.. (Any one in Kenosha County feel like stopping by to help there is steak and beer in it for ya!!!)

Scott..

 

[will61310]

auto zone has PB Blaster

 

[Guest]

Do not fear the carbs

Do not fear the carbs

Well good news kinda..

I took some starting fluid and turned the gas on Pri and sprayed the starting fluid in the carbs and it tried to start, I did this a few more times (at this point gas is leaking out of all the cabs) and she started and ran. In fact it would idle and I have to say it ran smooth as silk given, there were no air filters on, and gas streaming out the back of the carbs. Once I turned the gas lever so it was straight up and down, it would run for a bit then stall, as if it would run out of gas. Then I figured it out. I only had a little gas in the tank, so I moved the lever to directly across from PRI position and started it up and she ran great, a few moments later the gas started streaming out of the back of the carbs again. So all this means, I definitely have to rebuild the carbs further then I am comfortable with. I am a complete newb here and really dont want to do it. However I can not afford to have the shop do it, so..

PB Blaster is out of the question, I have not found it any place around here. I saw a thread about it, so I went up to the local auto store and no dice. WD40 is a penetrating oil, and while it does not work great, it does work and its better then nothing. I can try the impact wrench, however first I have to stop some place and find one. Seem's that maybe the best option.

I am not sure exactly what you mean by removing the caps however I think I know.. If I run across that I will have some paint remover handy just in case. Thanks for the tip.

Lord, this could be a complete disaster, maybe I will see if I can find a step by step guide on it some place. Carb rebuilds make me very nervous.

I will take a Video of the gas coming out and post it once my wife and kid are back from the beach.

Wish me luck guys.. (Any one in Kenosha County feel like stopping by to help there is steak and beer in it for ya!!!)

Scott..

I never rebuilt a carb in my life . Untill I got the GS1000. The site has directions and good pictures. If you hit a snag just ask on the site here. Hearing it explained makes it sound harder than the hands on work is. Even shimming the needles is not a big deal. A guy asked me once, do you know how to change the plug wires on a 12 cylinder airplane engine. I said, that sounds complicated. He said, "One At a Time Son" can't go wrong.

 

[zaipai]

auto zone has PB Blaster

No autozone around here. Nearest one is over 1/2 hour away. I will try the impact wrench first. Our Bumper to Bumper does not have PB blaster.. sigh.. its what happens when you live in the sticks..
Sure hope your right Mike10.. I will start and see what happens, tho I am going to take lots of pictures along the way for when I have to reassemble.

Next question, what is a good product to dip the parts in, I have a bucket, i just need some thing that is going to do a good job cleaning the parts. Also I don't have a compressor so I am going to pickup some canned air and hope I can make due with that.

I did find some instructions, this forum and Cliffs site is amazing.. Sure hope its as easy is it seems.

Back in a bit..

Scott..

 

[ddaniels]

You can buy a gallon can of carb cleaner at AutoZone. If it's only a half hour away, I'd go there and get it. It comes with a dipping basket inside the can. Just put your parts in the basket and lower down inside the can and let it sit. I let things sit for 24 hours each load.

Don't be intimidated by this process. It's just a little patience and some reading and learning. You can do it. It's not rocket science. I have faith in you!