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81 Gs1100 Starter relay?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lawhook
  • Start date Start date
L

Lawhook

Guest
turning key results in 'not dim' headlight with turn signals working as well but nothing else when starter button is pushed (clutch is in and kill switch is in run position). The manual states it could be an open circuit in the relay coil, due to the relay not making any sound when the button is pushed. I did a search through the threads and found most common is a bad ground or electrical needing a good cleaning...I will most definitely be going through all the wires, but just wondering what/where this issue could be residing. I appreciate all input and give thanks in advance, as I am new to this (in dire need of a GS 101 course) and would much rather be working towards showing off and enjoying this unique and classic ride...
 
well if it is the relay itself, it's easy to test, take a cheap screwdriver ( with a plastic handle! ) and cross the poles on the solenoid.. if it's just the relay the bike should turn over just fine.

i would also check all your fuses.
 
Did you check your fuses?? Make sure your battery connections and grounds are tight.
 
bike turned over

bike turned over

crossed the poles on the relay and the bike turned over just fine...Anyway I could still have a bad ground somewhere or does this mean I need a new relay....

Thanks again
 
I need to replace mine. I was told a broad range of years ford one will work. Mine, you push the starter button and there is a 3 to 8 or 10 second delay before it turns, and I know my wiring is straight.
 
I hate having little patience with ordering online when I can drive down the street to get it but then having to pay extra....The ford one? Part number? I need to spend sparingly because I'll be putting some more bucks into this bike soon...
 
Lawhook said:
I hate having little patience with ordering online when I can drive down the street to get it but then having to pay extra....The ford one? Part number? I need to spend sparingly because I'll be putting some more bucks into this bike soon...
Click to expand...

Hopefully somebody will chime in. I'll try a thread search. It's the one used on most ford models from the 90's I think until pretty recently. Once we confirm, I'm pretty sure you can go to parts store and say "Starter relay for a 94 escort" or something similar and it will be the right part.
 
Quote from an old thread

The starter solenoid on my 87 Mustang is roughly the same size as the one on my bikes.
 
if you got like, a murrays, pep boys, auto zone or whatever near you that doesn't suck, if you take the solenoid in and say " i need something about this size " they should be able to produce one.
 
Thanks...

Thanks...

Are the gs1100 known for going through a relay, once and a while...Or this might just be the original...Thanks and I'm going to hit up the checkers down the way...I'll let you know what the part number is after/if I get it.
 
And you are Not it...

And you are Not it...

replaced the relay and it wasn't that so on to removing the gas tank and searching for some bad connections...
 
Starter Relay

Starter Relay

In order to confirm that the problem is the relay and not some component in the circuit that supplies power to the relay solenoid (wiring, connectors, starter, ignition switch etc) you need to disconnect the small leads from the relay and apply 12 vdc directly. If the relay still doesn't work then is really is the problem.
 
kill switch

kill switch

Ya still getting power when crossed, I'm thinking its a bad connection with the kill switch....
 
Lawhook said:
Ya still getting power when crossed, I'm thinking its a bad connection with the kill switch....
Click to expand...
well fortunatly, it's pretty easy to disassemble and clean the kill switch. just take it apart slowly as there is a small spring in it.
 
Apply 12 volts to 1 of the little terminals on the starter pull off 1 but not the black /white thats ground if it starts its good. Then I would check the clutch handle switch, follow the wires from the clutch handle under the tank and unplug them and check the connections. Now connect ur black lead from ur volt meter to ground now prob the 2 wires coming from the harness with the ignition on and the start switch pushed u should have 12 volts on 1 of those wires. If not the problem is between the start button to run switch to fuse box. If u have 12 volts plug the lead with the 12 volts into the connector it was plugged to and test the other lead from the switch with the handle pulled in for the 12 volts. No voltage and the problem is probably the switch. Connect both leads to the wires from the switch in the lowest ohm scale u should get 0 or there abouts when u pull the lever. If it seems to be the switch Ill bet with a good cleaning it will work fine.
If it went the other way go to starter button and look for the 12 volts not there go to start switch and back to fuse till u find the 12 volts.
My money is on the clutch switch, happy hunting
 
Thanks lucabond, and everyone else...The voltmeter turned out to be a very beneficial and needed tool, that would have saved me a lot of time. I was able to pin point the connection that needed cleaning and off I went (took about 15 minutes to diagnois and fix, I guess all those other days were spent learning the electrical system :-P, so no time was wasted). Thanks again and hopefully this winter will be the next time I post in this section of the forum...enjoy the weather while it's here (at least if your in CO)...
 
Lawhook said:
The voltmeter turned out to be a very beneficial and needed tool, that would have saved me a lot of time.
Click to expand...

Good to hear that you are up and running, but there is another tool that is even quicker and easier than your voltmeter in times like this. A good test light.

Sometimes you just need to know if there is power or not, and don't really care whether it's 12.4 or 11.9 volts. A good test light will have a quality, flexible lead with a good clamp on it, and an incadescent bulb. With practice, you will be able to tell when the voltage is a bit low as the bulb will not be as bright, but you are just looking for the presence of power, not the quantity. Other times a light is better than a meter is when the power is intermittent, like a turn signal. A digital voltmeter will show the increase, but probably never read the voltage by the time the power goes off again. An analog meter takes time for the needle to swing. The light simply goes ON and OFF.

Besides checking for power, you can also check for grounds by moving the clip from the negative side of the battery to the positive side. Now anything you touch with the probe that is grounded properly will make it light up. You could have done this to see if your starter solenoid case was actually grounded.

.
 
Thanks

Thanks

I can only spend thirty dollar bills and have ocd about change...so the volt meter fit the bill :-)...I definitely will be picking up a test light ( i had used one of the led's off the bike to make one for this past issue but it was very ghetto rigged and a quick tester, but a test light would be great for my on the road tool set...thanks again
 
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