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81 GS750 Repaint

IMG_4634.jpg


IMG_4635.jpg


IMG_4637.jpg
 
Looks like you guys should order up a couple of POR-15 gas tank sealing kits. POR-15 is good stuff and as long as it's done properly, there is minimal risk with the coating coming off.
 
Nessism said:
Looks like you guys should order up a couple of POR-15 gas tank sealing kits. POR-15 is good stuff and as long as it's done properly, there is minimal risk with the coating coming off.
Click to expand...

Ed,
ED has the Por-15 tank sealer and I have 2 cans in the garage. Bill doesnt want his sealed but I'm debating doing the GS750 and GSXR.

When I did the ED, I went all out soaking it is a complete bath of acid and flushed many times.i did Por-15 rust inhibit on the outside and Por-15 sealer on the inside before i started painting anything.

What to do to get a tank clean enough for POR-15 without the total ordeal? Use the metal prep, Marine degreaser and leave it at that. The tank it generally pretty clean and just has some rust scale from sitting empty.
 
Buffer the GS750EX; Paint on er is also done

GS750EX_Black.jpg
 
Last edited:
posplayr said:
Ed,
ED has the Por-15 tank sealer and I have 2 cans in the garage. Bill doesnt want his sealed but I'm debating doing the GS750 and GSXR.

When I did the ED, I went all out soaking it is a complete bath of acid and flushed many times.i did Por-15 rust inhibit on the outside and Por-15 sealer on the inside before i started painting anything.

What to do to get a tank clean enough for POR-15 without the total ordeal? Use the metal prep, Marine degreaser and leave it at that. The tank it generally pretty clean and just has some rust scale from sitting empty.
Click to expand...

Sorry Jim, didn't see this until just now.

Regarding avoiding the ordeal, not possible. Dump in the phosphoric acid wash and some aquarium rocks, seal up the openings really well and shake and rotate the tank every half hour until it's rust free. If the tank is really rusty it will take several days to get the surfaces like the hump over the frame backbone clean. Some people stop after the phosphate wash but I use POR-15 sealer after that. Seems to work well...fingers crossed.
 
Nessism said:
Sorry Jim, didn't see this until just now.

Regarding avoiding the ordeal, not possible. Dump in the phosphoric acid wash and some aquarium rocks, seal up the openings really well and shake and rotate the tank every half hour until it's rust free. If the tank is really rusty it will take several days to get the surfaces like the hump over the frame backbone clean. Some people stop after the phosphate wash but I use POR-15 sealer after that. Seems to work well...fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Ed,
Well I have learned the best stategy is to seal the inside of the tank first before even starting stripping and painting the outside. If the tank is bare, it is difficult to keep the inside covered unless you fill it with some thick motoroil or something but then you are asking for trouble in risking any of it coming out during the painting process.

Since these paint jobs are black it was pretty much mandatory to color sand and buff for the ultimate shine.

http://www.automedia.com/Color-Sanding_and_Buffing/res20030601cs/1

Also learned even though I got a pretty descent result in the end, there are much easier colors that Jet Black :o.

Jim

P/S Anybody planning to color sand it is not very hard to do and does significantly improve the job depending upon you paint skills. If you can lay those final coats on real smooth with no linkt or dust landing it in then there is probably no need to buff.

The main thing to remember about painting that you cant fix every well after you are into it is that you have to get plenty of paint and clear coat along the edges. So when you are painting, cover the perimeter areas first, like the bottom edge of the tank or the outside edges of the side covers. These are the areas you are most likely to burn through when you are sanding between coats. Color sanding an entire car must be alot of work.
 
Last edited:
jwhelan65 said:
Looks good Jim!, funny thing I just picked up a bike just like this. You did a great job on the paint, always faved the 700 and 750's
Click to expand...

Yea Joe I saw that. I have enjoyed mine as my first bike and an around town cruiser. Mine has been ultra reliable alway starting right away even when the battery is a little down and the starter drags.
Looking to move it out of the herd to make room for the GSXR street fighter. :D
 
HammerHead said:
Jim, can't seem to make this link work?? Would be Great to have that pdf.

Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...


Steve
Try these:
Jim

I uploaded a bunch of pics at photo bucket but now not sure how much resolution those will have.

Bills has about 3-4 coats of clear but no RUNS :D

http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/q...SR/Bills_Tank/

Here are the ones for the GS750. It now has about 7-8 coats total but spraying in the colder weather (60 vz. the normal 85 deg) I got some runs even though it looks very wet. I need to work on them after it hardens a bit more.

http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/q...SR/GS750_Tank/
 
posplayr said:
Beat the weather on Bill's bike
Click to expand...

Jim, no wonder the fumes make you a little crazy. How well does that Hornitos
spray anyway???;)

GREAT job on those strips on the 750. Love the red and orange together. The bike really
looks bitchin
 
Last edited:
HammerHead said:
Jim, no wonder the fumes make you a little crazy. How well does that Hornetos
spray anyway???;)
Click to expand...

I usually do the Hornetos full strength :-\\\.

It doesn't usually atomize much coming through the throat of the bottle. :eek:
 
GabrielGoes said:
thats the model with 2 valves per cylinder right? so its a 16 valve bike! your selling out!:D
Click to expand...

Sorry you have about 3 things wrong there so it is kinda killing the joke :confused:

  1. 1981 GS750EX is a 16V TSCC engine
  2. It has 4 valves per cylinder
  3. If it was 2 valves per cylinder it would be an 8V not 16V.
 
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