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'82 1100E Top End Rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter hoganjr
  • Start date Start date
H

hoganjr

Guest
Thanks for welcoming me to this forum. I have a little wrenching experience on vintage Japanese motorcycles and always need cash so I agreed to do some repairs for the owner of an '82 1100E. It's the 16 valve engine. I'm having a really difficult time finding a downloadable manual for it.
The guy who was riding the bike apparently kept spraying starter fluid in the #1 cylinder to start it and blew the head gasket. Oil was leaking out of the head under the #1 exhaust pipe.
I will def post some pics if I can. I had to cut the head off a couple of exhaust bolts to get the exhaust off. Took it to a shop to get the bolts extracted and chase the threads on a couple of spark plug holes.
I'm hoping you all can help me out with some Suzuki GS tips and maybe even some specs as I put her back together.
Thanks again!
HoganJr
 
I got my top end kit today and borrowed a valve spring compressor from a friend. But the tool is not gonna work. I think I know what I need...one of those "C-clamp-kinda" tools. I'd love to hear from somebody who has removed and replaced springs on one of these motors. Is there a specific tool I need or can I get a universal tool that will work?

Thanks.

HoganJr
 
I have heard of people using a large C-clamp from Harbor Freight plus an oxygen sensor socket (or just cut your own slit into an old deep-well socket) as a poor-man's spring compressor. Haven't tried this myself, but it's on my todo list.

Also, some auto parts stores will rent you a spring compressor.

Also, if the engine will be apart for some time and you just want to get the valves free for now and worry about assembly later, I have seen people put a deep well socket over the retainers and bang it with a mallet to get the retainers free. (This is more risky though, as if you're not careful you can lose them little buggers very easily.)
 
eil said:
I have heard of people using a large C-clamp from Harbor Freight plus an oxygen sensor socket (or just cut your own slit into an old deep-well socket) as a poor-man's spring compressor. Haven't tried this myself, but it's on my todo list.

Also, some auto parts stores will rent you a spring compressor.

Also, if the engine will be apart for some time and you just want to get the valves free for now and worry about assembly later, I have seen people put a deep well socket over the retainers and bang it with a mallet to get the retainers free. (This is more risky though, as if you're not careful you can lose them little buggers very easily.)
Click to expand...

I use the socket and mullet option, with the addition of a small magnet in the socket.... No losing them little buggers.
 
reinstalling the head!

reinstalling the head!

this has been a real education for me. I did the valves on my GL1000 a couple years ago and don't remember struggling with it. I rented a valve spring compressor from the auto parts store and it doesn't work without some kind of adaptor.
I pulled apart the tool my buddy loaned me. The one that looks like a gear or pulley puller. I lay a little bar across the "fork" part of that tool and push down. My wife sticks the magnet in there and pulls out the keepers. To put them back together I push down again and she guides the keepers back into place. Works pretty good and it's a great ab workout.
I'm ready to reinstall this head.
Any tips or tricks or pitfalls to avoid in installing the head gasket...camshafts...timing gears...
Clearly I need a little help!

HoganJr
 
mostly finished

mostly finished

having a little trouble getting the owner to come up with the cash he committed to pay me for this job so it is still in my garage. I started it and adjusted the idle and ran it a couple of miles the day I finished it (a couple of weeks ago). It seems to run ok except it races up pretty high when I turn up the idle to where it probably should be and will die sometimes after a few minutes if I back the idle off to where it won't surge. Nothing that a carb sync probably wouldn't cure, except that he is running individual pods on the intakes and one of the carb-to-head boots is all buggered up on the carb end. The owner hasn't agreed to pay me back for a new one and I'm thinking it is pointlless to try to tune the bike with a leaking boot.
Maybe, just for my own prides sake in doing a good job I should buy the boot, install it, sync the carbs and make it run right.
My question: is there a cheap, DIY-kinda fix or replacement for a boot with a buggered up end?
This bike is really too nice to be going down the road like this.

hoganJr
 
the rubber is split and coming apart across the groove where the clamp goes on the carb end. The parts store where I deal says they have no used boots for sale. I thought maybe this was a common thing and some of you GS guys had developed a cheap and easy fix.

HoganJr
 
Yes, it is a common thing. The cheap and easy fix is to buy a new boot. The correct and easy fix is to buy four new boots. Thankfully the intake boots on these engines are not as expensive as the 8-valve ones.
 
hoganjr said:
the rubber is split and coming apart across the groove where the clamp goes on the carb end. The parts store where I deal says they have no used boots for sale. I thought maybe this was a common thing and some of you GS guys had developed a cheap and easy fix.

HoganJr
Click to expand...


i have MANY GS1100/1150 parts...i'm just east of richmond In.
 
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