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82 1100EZ crank issues :(

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

Guest
SO, in the midst of electrical upgrades...R/R & stator. I am the 2nd owner of the bike, just over 80K on the engine. Lots of progress today, feeling really good about things until I decided to pull the rotor to check the condition of the starter clutch & upgrade the bolts...

I thought the rotor bolt seemed to come off a bit too easily, but nothing else seemed amiss.

Then, I get the rotor removed to find this:

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Cassius086/Mobile Uploads/IMG_20140222_195332_zpsc28248da.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Cassius086/Mobile Uploads/IMG_20140222_195728_zpsf2b3c486.jpg


My apologies for the crappy cell phone pics....

I am completely deflated...


Can a machinist repair this (i.e. weld material over the damaged area and turn it back down to spec?)
 
SO, in the midst of electrical upgrades...R/R & stator. I am the 2nd owner of the bike, just over 80K on the engine. Lots of progress today, feeling really good about things until I decided to pull the rotor to check the condition of the starter clutch & upgrade the bolts...

I thought the rotor bolt seemed to come off a bit too easily, but nothing else seemed amiss.

Then, I get the rotor removed to find this:

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Cassius086/Mobile Uploads/IMG_20140222_195332_zpsc28248da.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/Cassius086/Mobile Uploads/IMG_20140222_195728_zpsf2b3c486.jpg


My apologies for the crappy cell phone pics....

I am completely deflated...


Can a machinist repair this (i.e. weld material over the damaged area and turn it back down to spec?)

Use red locktite when you put it back on and don't worry about it.
 
Any gouges? If not use it with red loctite.
I've seen worse.
I just tried to do a starter clutch on an 83 crank and the guy spun the rotor so long it ruined the taper to the point the rotor pushed up against the clutch. I have to replace that whole crank.
I really think you are ok though.
 
Thanks, guys.

Coming from you two, I feel a little better...but those really are bad pics. will take some with my proper camera tomorrow and post them up.

Would appreciate your opinion again with the better photos.
 
When my starter clutch spun on my '81 1100E a couple of years ago, the shaft looked similar to yours - couple of gouges with raised metal edge.

I carefully filed down the edges/high spots & cleaned up the taper area with some 800 grit paper, re-installed with red loctite and it hasn't been a problem since.
 
Wouldn't the bearing and stud version Loctite be more appropriate than the general purpose red type? I used that stuff on some wheel bearings that were loose in the hub (as as temporary measure) but it's held so well I've never fixed the bike properly yet.
 
Wouldn't the bearing and stud version Loctite be more appropriate than the general purpose red type? I used that stuff on some wheel bearings that were loose in the hub (as as temporary measure) but it's held so well I've never fixed the bike properly yet.

I'm not familiar with that flavor Loctite, but if it's desiged to fill in low spots then yeah I agree...

I guess either way, I would not be pulling the crank based on what I see.
 
I'm not familiar with that flavor Loctite
Its green. Very permanent.

When mine did that I used lapping compound and alot of elbow grease. My starter clutch was just as bad as my shaft. The lapping compound really smoothed out both surfaces nicely. I just went back and forth for about 1/2 hr (2 beers) with the clutch on the shaft, Sprayed / wiped it down with a whole can of brake cleaner, re-assembled it and hit the nut with green loctite and an impact gun. Done. Took about an hour.

GS4.jpg

GS6.jpg
 
Thanks for the help, guys :)

I ordered new parts for the starter clutch just because ($30.00 for new springs, pins and rollers) and I'm going to get a set of 12.9 grade bolts to replace the stock starter clutch bolts & Loctite them when I reassemble things. The crank bolt will get Loctite treatment as well.

OH...MR Cycles in Asheville NC is a great place for OEM parts...cheapest I have found so far :)

www.mrcycles.com is their OEM parts website.
 
file high spots, then use valve lapping paste till u get the best surface you can, then slap it all together with loctite
 
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