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82 GS 750T carb help

  • Thread starter Thread starter dcsowrider
  • Start date Start date
D

dcsowrider

Guest
Hi all,

For a little background, I recently bought this bike in October and plan on doing a cross country trip with a couple buddies after we graduate from college this May. It's pretty ambitious, being two of us have little experience with motorcycles but we have no clue if we will have the chance to do this again.

As for the bike, it has 15,000 miles on it and I rode it some before the snow hit and i've been having some problems, im guessing with the carbs since they are notorious for carb issues. The bike is cold blooded and takes awhile to warm up before i can take the choke off. But even when fully warm whenever I drop the RPM's down it wants to die. I messed with the idle screw a bunch and got it to idle around 1500. But i can't let off the throttle fast without it wanting to die. It's so bad that I could barely use the front brake when stopping because i always had to ease of the throttle slowly to prevent it from dieing. The previous owner put bigger jets in it and NGK wires but thats it. He said the carbs looked good when he had them off a couple years ago, but I'm thinking about taking them off and running them through a sonicator and replacing spark plugs.

What do you guys think?

Also, any other general tips about the bike or trips would be much appreciated!

Thanks
 
BS series oring kits here and the intake manifold orings are on page 3. Dont waste money on kits full of inferior crap and things that you dont need. get some Berryman Parts And Carb Dip, the oring kit, and new bowl gaskets and youll be in for about 75 bucks. One kits does one full rack of carbs.

http://cycleorings.com/
 
Also check valve adjustments, air cleaner is actually clean and not clogged, proper vacuum sync with gauges, timing, and pull the existing plugs to see if they are sooty and black indicating a rich condition.

Yes all the above items MATTER and act in concert to effect proper operations.
 
Awesome, thanks for all the info! I'm going to have to enlist some help to teach me the ropes because a lot of this is over my head.
 
Its as simple as reading the tutorial, looking at the pics, and doing it one step at a time. Take your time and take pics as you go. Its intimidating at first but its really nothing once youve done that first rack.

The only thing you need NOT DO is to grip and twist the float seats with pliers to remove them and get to the internal oring. They are soft brass and will usually get squished and thats bad. Just use a thin bladed old screw driver to wedge between the carb body and the shoulder of the seats and gently pry them up.
 
Welcome and please take pics. I am very interested in your task completion.

Thanks to you too Chuck...


Ed
 
IMG_0290 - Copy.jpg

I pulled the carbs off yesterday and checked the plugs. They all look clean and the gaps are fine. The boots are good as well, no cracking and pliable. Everyone I talk to says they think theres a problem with a pilot jet. I decided not to take the rack apart myself, not that i'm worried about screwing anything up. It looks simple enough. I just don't know if I would notice any problems if I saw one. I'm going to bring them to a shop to be cleaned in a sonicating bath and have the guy look at them to see if he sees any problems.

The bike runs fantastic once above an idle. It just has the problem of wanting to die once dropping RPM's. I'm just worried about not seeing any problems with the carbs and putting them on and having the same problem. This whole trip is going to be tight with money, so every dollar counts haha. I'll cross my fingers though. I hope it's something small.
 
dcsowrider said:
The bike runs fantastic once above an idle. It just has the problem of wanting to die once dropping RPM's. I'm just worried about not seeing any problems with the carbs and putting them on and having the same problem. This whole trip is going to be tight with money, so every dollar counts haha. I'll cross my fingers though. I hope it's something small.
Click to expand...

Your idle passages are tiny and hard to clean thoroughly,and you need them in low to mid-range rpms; ultrasonic might work, but you'll find out when you reinstall and run it.
guy in my area advertises this service

http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/4800274183.html
 
tom203 said:
Your idle passages are tiny and hard to clean thoroughly,and you need them in low to mid-range rpms; ultrasonic might work, but you'll find out when you reinstall and run it.
guy in my area advertises this service

http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/4800274183.html
Click to expand...

yea that's true. I figured ultrasonic would definitely clean them out, but it may be worth it to clean them out by hand to make sure they aren't plugged. Does anyone have any experience with sonicating carbs? It'll run me about $100.
 
$175.00 from me. This includes the orings, new bowl gaskets, and return shipping. Any broke needles or other hard parts are extra at the cost of replacement.
 
I ended up sending the carbs out to Steve for a full tear down and clean and boy am I happy. He found one of the pilot jets was stuck and the float levels were way off. I just put it back together and she's purring purrfectly.


 
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