82 GS 750T Creeping idle-

[Badooka]

Hello folks, I'm new to the site and have read for many months without registering. This is a great site.
The problem I am having is this- I have completely rebuilt the 82 GS 750T.
I had the carbs professionally done by ELi in Austin Texas.
She has new rings and coils with also plugs. I just cannot seem to get the carbs synched. I have come across people talking about Intake gasket boot O-rings, but my bike has all rubber boots and not sure if I need O rings on the head and or on the carbs themselves. Number 3 has perfect 11 HG on the gauges but only about 2-7 HG on the other ones. when I try to adjust any of them the RPM climbs and the bike soon gets to hot to continue. The crazy part is the bike rides ok- but the idle RPM climbs to around 2-2300 when at a light or stopping. She isn't running too hot and the air mix screws are about 1.5 out from bottom. I really want these carbs synched proper so I can get onto riding with no worries. My intake boots are in great shape with no cracks or rot so I am at a total loss on what this can be- losing no oil and no leaks with oils or fuel. Everything in my mechanical past tells me some type of vacum leak but I have found none. Valves are also in fine shape. IS this a boot o- ring issue- there aren't any on the bike so I wonder if this is a non issue- the clamps seem to be tight and I have sprayed for leaks with nothing found- one other thing I heard was weak weights on the ignition advance but mine is electronic. Thanks

 

[Cdnpt1]

Hi, our bikes, the 750's of that age at any rate, don't have the o-rings so that is a non issue. Try adjusting one carb until it maxes out the RPM, then back the idle back down and move to the next carb and do the same. The mix screws are only 1.5 turns? Typically you are looking at 2 to 3 turns on those. Have you looked at the allen head screw in each intake runner and made sure those are all tight? I am sure someone with alot more experience than I will chime in soon and will help you get it sorted.

 

[Badooka]

CDNPT1,
Thanks for reply.
Thats what I thought on the O-rings but could not find anything for sure. I put 135 mains in with the ACCEL coils and figured 1.5 would be a good starting point- I can try the 2-3 turns and watch my temps. My screws on the intakes were torqued.

 

[Cdnpt1]

This is a puzzler, very odd that vaccuum is so different. I am assuming you set up valve clearances .03 to .05, you sound like a thorough individual. That's a pretty big main over the stock 112.5, are you running a 4 into 1 with pods or something? I don't think that will effect idle but it sure will effect your top end performance. It may be that the choke plungers aren't closing on 1, 2, and 4. Take a look at the forks and see if they aren't on wrong, causing the choke plungers not to close entirely, they may be flipped. Not trying to disparage anyone, but if you didn't do it yourself you can't always be sure, hell, if you do it yourself you can't always be sure! ; )

 

[Cdnpt1]

Never mind the pods/exhaust question, just looked at your album. That's a beautiful bike. Did you have to polish the exhaust up or did it come to you that clean? I have a lot of work to do on mine! Once I get the E back on the road the T will be my next project.

 

[Nessism]

First of all, you need to place a strong fan in front of the engine to keep it cool while performing the carb sync operation.

When syncing, the first thing is to adjust the #2 & #3 carbs level. Next, adjust the two outer cylinders, one at a time, level with your 2-3 baseline.

The photos in your profile suggest the bike is stock. So what's up with the different jets?

 

[Badooka]

Try to answer you both here, the bike is mainly stock- I drilled the exhaust to let her breath-also put the ACCEL hot coils in, doing so I added the 135 mains to keep her cooler to offset the pipes. I hear you on the fan, I don't own one but maybe need to look into a large shop fan. I ran the sequence per the manual and had no luck- at times when trying to do 2-3 there was zero vacum showing. This just had me numb with what was up. I am goin to pull the carbs off again and bench synch once more. Take a look at the airbox for leaks as well.
Those are stock pipes, and they were rusty when I got it. Get this- I read about this chrome cleaning method on a ladies sewing site- I was so taken I tried it at 2AM to see if it was BS- it wasn't. You take aluminum foil(heavy duty better) and fold into palm size squares- dip in in water a and scrub the pipes. keep it wet- It's some type of chemical reaction between the chrome aluminum and water and it works. To get them gleaming I use 0000 steel wool with MAAS polish and there is no going back. Thanks for the words- I hadn't yet finish covering my sissy bar in the pics- it's done so I will post soon. MAAS was invented by a housewife in her kitchen and it is the best metal polish I've found for the money. I use the steel wool method on the aluminum as well.

 

[Nessism]

Sounds like you are doing something wrong with the sync process.

This link is to Cliff's carb sync tutorial. Please review and see if it helps...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/carb-balance.pdf

As for the jets, you went too far with the mains. I'd dial them back till you are maybe 2 steps richer than stock and try again.

 

[Badooka]

Now on the port that goes to the small side of the petcock, do you plug the petcock or the port or both? I had the port on the carbs plugged, the petcok unplugged- I was using the gas tank and in the prime position for fuel-

 

[7981GS]

Beautiful bike that you have there!!!

Eric

 

[Cdnpt1]

Now on the port that goes to the small side of the petcock, do you plug the petcock or the port or both? I had the port on the carbs plugged, the petcok unplugged- I was using the gas tank and in the prime position for fuel-

The vacuum from the carbs operates the petcock. As far as I know if you leave the petcock on prime you are going to start running fuel into the case. That may be the vacuum problem right there! See Basscliff's top ten to-do's and one of them is getting that petcock in good order I believe. After all the beautiful work you have done it would be a shame to not have everything running as it should or burn up your internals because you have a case full of gas.

 

[Cdnpt1]

Thanks for the polishing info too!.

 

[MisterCinders]

Now on the port that goes to the small side of the petcock, do you plug the petcock or the port or both? I had the port on the carbs plugged, the petcok unplugged- I was using the gas tank and in the prime position for fuel-

If you are running an auxiliary tank or a long fuel line to the detached tank, set the petcock to PRIME, and disconnect the vacuum line from the tank and plug that hose. Otherwise, the vacuum line will suck air into the carbs, leaning you out.

 

[MisterCinders]

Try to answer you both here, the bike is mainly stock- I drilled the exhaust to let her breath-also put the ACCEL hot coils in, doing so I added the 135 mains to keep her cooler to offset the pipes. I hear you on the fan, I don't own one but maybe need to look into a large shop fan. I ran the sequence per the manual and had no luck- at times when trying to do 2-3 there was zero vacum showing. This just had me numb with what was up. I am goin to pull the carbs off again and bench synch once more. Take a look at the airbox for leaks as well.
Those are stock pipes, and they were rusty when I got it. Get this- I read about this chrome cleaning method on a ladies sewing site- I was so taken I tried it at 2AM to see if it was BS- it wasn't. You take aluminum foil(heavy duty better) and fold into palm size squares- dip in in water a and scrub the pipes. keep it wet- It's some type of chemical reaction between the chrome aluminum and water and it works. To get them gleaming I use 0000 steel wool with MAAS polish and there is no going back. Thanks for the words- I hadn't yet finish covering my sissy bar in the pics- it's done so I will post soon. MAAS was invented by a housewife in her kitchen and it is the best metal polish I've found for the money. I use the steel wool method on the aluminum as well.

You don't need a massive fan for this. A cheapo box fan in front of the bike will suffice. You just need some airflow to replace the cooling effect of a moving bike.

 

[Badooka]

Thanks folks- will look at the forks and I walked right passed a 5 dollar box fan today!
I had a water cooled machine with a fuel pump and guess I was spoiled but it did not handle like a GS- nothing I've ridden does. It took me 25 years to get this GS close to one I had and this one isn't going anywhere! Thanks for the good words and compliments. Tuning carbs when its 107 is a turd sandwich- I had the vacum port plugged at the carbs, the petcock) brand new) in prime and the port on the petcock unplugged- I wonder if I just run longer hoses with everything hooked up as it should be would I get where I need to be. Gonna take them off and start over after an in depth inspection of box and boots.
Thanks again!

 

[Badooka]

Well I went at looking for vacuum leaks and found them, all four of my CARB boots to the head we cracked. They were cracked really fine and I had to flex them to see it. Kept getting engine rev with starter fluid but the boots looked like new and were as tight as could be. Airbox was Ok- now to find a new set of boots.