'82 GS450, New R/R, Now New Problems....

[remiller88]

So, this is my first post on here, and as it says in my signiature I am very new to this hobby so bare with me if I ask stupid questions or a LOT of questions in general to your responses.

I just bought a 1982 GS450(I think L) from a friend I work with. Put a used Stator in it, brand new battery, and it was running. Key word "was".... We even took turns riding it around the neighborhood for about 30 minutes or so. A friend of mine that is helping me learn how to work on bikes, started checking all the electrical around the bike after we had it running fine. He noticed that we weren't getting an increase in volts when we raised the RPMs which I guess means that there isn't a higher charge coming in to charge the battery. Because of this I purchased a new R/R off of Ebay. When we pulled the old one off it had a decent size crack on the back of it and I figured that must have been the issue. We put the new R/R on and the bike starts right up! Less than a minute goes by and before he is able to start checking any of the electrical, the bike dies and has absollutely no power. That is where we are currently at, assuming a fuse is blown and we're trying to find it.

First question, where abouts would be the most likely place to find a fuse/fuses on this model? And with it being an 82 is it possible that it has the in-line wire fuses?

Second question, when we pulled the original R/R we found that it was smaller than the new one. Is the bigger size just to disipate heat better, or could it be pushing too much and overcharging the system, blowing a fuse on its way through?

Another thing I found odd about the new R/R was that it didn't have the matching wires like the old one did. The old one had a white wire, a white with green stripe, and I think a white with a bold green stripe. Then of course the ground. The new one just has a ground and 3 solid yellow wires. Does it matter which ones are connected to which? or is it fine to connect them in any order?

Thank you so much in advance for any help you can give!

 

[tom203]

". We put the new R/R on and the bike starts right up! Less than a minute goes by and before he is able to start checking any of the electrical, the bike dies and has absollutely no power. That is where we are currently at, assuming a fuse is blown and we're trying to find it."

the new r/r won't make it start right up , but wiring it or the stator wrong could cause the fuse to blow as soon as it does start. Double check your connections and find the fuse. Recharge your battery, it's ok to boost from NON running car. Get extra fuses 15 amp should be in there- don't be tempted to use 20 amp fuses.

 

[remiller88]

" wiring it or the stator wrong could cause the fuse to blow as soon as it does start. Double check your connections and find the fuse. Recharge your battery, it's ok to boost from NON running car. Get extra fuses 15 amp should be in there- don't be tempted to use 20 amp fuses.

That's my biggest question really. The new R/R has 3 solid yellow wires and a ground wire. The old R/R and the bike itself had seemingly particular wires for each of those three. They had a solid white wire, a white wire with a green stripe, and a white wire with a bold green stripe. Does it matter which of the yellow wires I connect to the 3 white wires? And if so, how can I possibly tell which is which since all three wires are solid yellow?

Also, the battery never actually died. We drove it for a short while, then started checking all of the electrical just to be sure after installing the stator and new battery that everything was functioning properly. That's when we noticed that the volts weren't ramping up to the battery when the RPMs were higher, and triggered our response to replace the R/R. Again I'm very new to all of this so I don't even know for sure if that was the right move, but it seemed correct at the time.

 

[posplayr]

That's my biggest question really. The new R/R has 3 solid yellow wires and a ground wire. The old R/R and the bike itself had seemingly particular wires for each of those three. They had a solid white wire, a white wire with a green stripe, and a white wire with a bold green stripe. Does it matter which of the yellow wires I connect to the 3 white wires? And if so, how can I possibly tell which is which since all three wires are solid yellow?

Also, the battery never actually died. We drove it for a short while, then started checking all of the electrical just to be sure after installing the stator and new battery that everything was functioning properly. That's when we noticed that the volts weren't ramping up to the battery when the RPMs were higher, and triggered our response to replace the R/R. Again I'm very new to all of this so I don't even know for sure if that was the right move, but it seemed correct at the time.

The 3 stator wires do not matter as to the order so neither does the color of the insulation. Except they should run straight to the stator from the R/R and not go to the Lg/W and W/R wires in the OEM harness. Those are now free wires. See GS Charging Health. It has been mentioned a million times.

If you are concerned about charging run the "Quick test" and report the numbers or take a swag at your own diagnosis.

 

[remiller88]

Thanks! I'll check out those resources. Real quick though, what does Lg/W and W/R stand for? (me noob, lol)

 

[posplayr]

Thanks! I'll check out those resources. Real quick though, what does Lg/W and W/R stand for? (me noob, lol)

Look in the manual, there are color codes and the abbreviations for all listed on the schematics . And do NOT USE A Clymers or anything else other than the OEM manual.

Lg - Light Green
W- White
R- Red.

First abbreviation is the Wire Color
Second abbreviation is the Tracer (stripe) color.

 

[Guest]

The first color is the predominate color of the wire and the second the color of the stripe. The wiring diagram should have a color code chart. https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=2370B62DDF9F0C6B&id=2370b62ddf9f0c6b!1031&sc=documents&v=3