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'82 GS450L - No spark left side HELP!

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Ok I checked both coils ohm impedance, here are my findings:

LEFT COIL:
point-to-point (from positive (+) to negative (-) terminals on the coil itself) = ~4 ohms - 8ohm

from positive (+) to inside connected spark plug wire boot = disconnected\infinity\no continuity

RIGHT COIL:
point-to-point (from positive (+) to negative (-) terminals on the coil itself) = ~4ohms - 8ohms

from positive (+) to inside connected spark plug wire boot = steady 229,000ohm (22.9 when on the 200K multimeter setting)


CONCLUSION:
This is indicitive of the left coil needing to be replaced, correct?

Should I replace it with this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321158054731?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

The part number on that says 3210TR 61, my coil that I will be replacing says 3210TR 21; what is the difference? Will that one be a direct replacement of mine?

Thanks
 
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Last thing you need to eliminate is the spark plug wires. If you look where the spark plug wires connect at the coil, there is some sort of screw-on system there. Test your resistance from that point to the small + lead. If that's infinite, then the coil is bad. If it's not, then test between that screw post and the other end of the spark plug boot wire. You could have two bad wires. That would be unlikely, though. I'm betting you've got a bad coil.

I don't know what the part number difference is.
 
Yeah, I just tested from the other end of the wire to one of the leads on the coil and it didn't produce any reading, just infinity.

Where would you recommend getting a new coil if that one I showed isn't compatible?
 
That's not a Suzuki part #, I'm not sure what that number is.

Here is your Suzuki part #:
33410-44X50

I just checked, same part number for the '82 and the '86 450L.

There you go!

-Matt
 
On second look, the original part numbers were different, and then Suzuki issued a superseding part, 33410-44X50. So that may explain the different stamping. But because Suzuki replaced both the original part numbers with a common one, I'd say they're definitely compatible, wouldn't you?

-Matt
 
For sure, they look pretty much identical except for that '6' instead of a '2' LOL

I just wanted to make sure before buying something that may not work and\or may cause more problems because it's not the right part
 
Well I ordered that part so we will see once it gets here if all is well.

I'm still expecting to have to adjust some stuff on the carbs after I had them off and rejetted everything; I'm hoping I don't have to swap out the #130 main jet for the other one I got, #127.5, but we'll see I guess.

Thanks to everyone that has helped me with this monstrosity of a project this has turned into!
 
Sorry for the late chiming in here, haven't logged on for a bit...

You may find it's the spark plug cap on the end of the lead.

You can get new ones or you can take the old one off, trim 1/4" or so off the end and twist the plug cap back on again.

Just another option...
 
After replacing the left ignition coil everything started falling into place quick.

It's running great now, I'm gonna try and do some plug chops.

One small problem I noticed, when starting it (warm or cold) it'll kinda require me to roll back a bit on the throttle to get going.

Any ideas why?

thanks for all the help to everyone in this thread!
 
yes! thanks!
it's running great now!

I just replaced the headlight that was blown before I did all of this work, and now all I have left is the valve cover gasket (right now it's a self-made silicone gasket) that I just received in the mail yesterday, intake o-rings (which are on their way here), and rear brake pads sometime in the future because they're squealing lol
 
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