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82 gs650l ...

  • Thread starter Thread starter roguecreature
  • Start date Start date
R

roguecreature

Guest
Hi everyone, im new to this site and kind of new to grease monkeying around...

2 questions...

today i pulled the gas tank...took off the main fuel line, and the vent line directly on the fuel valve. also disconnected the electrics... pulled the tank and noticed a long tube coming out of it. is that a vent tube? best i can tell it was not connected to anything.

all i have at the moment is clymers (sucks!) and it did not reference this...it is attached to the same piece at the electrical wiring which i assume is the fule guage.

i drained the tank, put it back on, appears to be good . no sign of leaks yet
but i wanted to be sure.

if you have any pictures that would help.

also, are the fuel valves on these damn things supposed to be so hard to move? is that a sign of internal corrosion or anything?
thanks

Ted
 
The long hose is a drain, in case the fuel level sender leaks, it goes safely down this tube under the bike instead of dripping gasoline onto a hot engine right next to an ignition source right between your legs. The hose goes onto a nipple on that brass colored cover over the fuel sender, the other end hangs down betwen the engine and the swingarm.

The petcock is supposed to be easy to move. Maybe it's corroded inside, maybe it's just dirty. It probably doesn't work right anymore anyway.
 
tkent, thanks.
so i will make the drain as straight and close to the ground as i can (while avoiding the hot engine between mine legs....hah...laughing as i type that)
if you have any pictures of this that would be great...based on what you said, i think ive got it hooked up right...maybe tomorrow i will zip tie the drain more direct straight down instead of anywhere remotely close to the bike.

eta how much is a fuel valve for this bike?
any good websites for things like this and what not ?

i am coming from the old goldwing world and the GS stuff is still pretty new to me, as well as tooling around on bikes in general.

thanks again.
 
The drain doesn't normally see any fuel, it's only there if the fuel level sender happens to leak. Just route it to the rear of the engine however is most convenient. I believe mine goes over the airbox and then straight down where it is zip-tied to the battery overflow line.

That Clymer's manual _should_ have diagrams showing where cables and wiring go, not sure if it will have anything on hoses.

Here's a page showing where some of the other hoses and whatnot connect to: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/hose_locations.html

If you post a quick introduction over in the GS Owners forum, BassCliff will send you his legendary mega-welcome containing links to everything you'd ever want to know about fixing and maintaining your GS. There will probably be a factory service manual there too. (Also, we like pics!)
 
leaks....

leaks....

Alright guys...
thanks for the links.
Okay so i think ive got the vent figured out. trying to attach a picture.
i also have picture of the petcock reconnect.

new problem. when i turn petcock to prime, gas leaks out some ports between carbs on both sides?

is there supposed to a cover on those? they are difficult to get a picture of...when i touch them they seem to move.

any input on those? why would they be leaking? engine flooded? how do i fix that?

is there an off on the fuel valve on this bike? or is it just res/prime/on ? thanks again
 
also fuel vent reattachment.

was hoping to get this started today but not sure what this new leak is...time to ride the old wing :)

seriously guys thanks for help, will post in new member section hsortly.
 
roguecreature said:
Alright guys...
thanks for the links.
Okay so i think ive got the vent figured out. trying to attach a picture.
i also have picture of the petcock reconnect.

new problem. when i turn petcock to prime, gas leaks out some ports between carbs on both sides?

is there supposed to a cover on those? they are difficult to get a picture of...when i touch them they seem to move.

any input on those? why would they be leaking? engine flooded? how do i fix that?

is there an off on the fuel valve on this bike? or is it just res/prime/on ? thanks again
Click to expand...
You need to rebuild your carbs. They should not leak.
Your off on the petcock is in ON or RES position. The hose you circled is the vacuum line. When the petcock sees vacuum, it allows fuel to flow. Otherwise, the petcock will not flow any fuel.
You fuel vent hose is correctly located.
 
man, carb rebuild?
i was afraid of that.
fun fun.
any kits?

so b/c the carbs are f'd they are leaking fuel? SOB...well good info, now i just need to figure this out

do they sell kits for that with this bike?
 
Yes. That means your carbs are overflowing.
You do not need a "kit" per se, you need to follow this: Carb rebuild guide
This is very common with the Mikuni CV carbs, we have all done it from time to time. Be sure and follow it to the "T", and do not attempt any shortcuts.
 
Fuel runs down fuel line, fills bowls up ( vents let air out so fuel can get in) and then the fuel needle valves are supposed to shut fuel off when bowls are full; In your case, there is something wrong with these needle valves- they aren't closing (enough) and fuel is overfilling bowls into vent hose area where it leaks out. You need to clean carbs correctly and get new o-rings (cycleorings.com)- do NOT buy carb rebuild kits, your current metal parts are likely fine.
 
Thanks again Tom.
There is one more thing I want to try. I have carb tune up cleaner...I am going to inject this into the carbs probably tomorrow and let it sit for 12-24 hours, then drain it and see if they move any more.

thoughts on this as a troubleshooting step?

another question is are there supposed to be tubes on the vent lines between the carbs? i see them in the links you guys gave me, but they were not on the bike. is it problematic if the vents are not on the bikes?

thanks for the input again.

t.b.
 
would you happen to hav ea part # for those hoses?

im guessing trying the carb cleaner i should take the carbs off the bike before the "soak"
 
The "T" fitting seems to be 8mm dia- a 5/16 inch fuel line would likely fit on tight enough. measure yours and head to auto parts store'

If you're going to have the pleasure of taking the carbs off this model, I strongly suggest the full monty carb cleaning (see Basscliff's) and avoid shortcuts.
If carbs are still mounted, I suppose that you could drain all fuel bowls and refill the bowls with carb cleaner/gas concoction; best to have front end tilted up so extra fuel overfills into airbox and not into cylinders. But trying this does nothing to improve 30 yearold old o-rings.
 
everything is connected to everything :)

everything is connected to everything :)

so this is a slow project for me...
got the carbs off today...ended up removing airbox and clutch and choke . had to take off engine brace brackets to get the damn air box out. im a newbie at this and i dont mind it being a learning experience as i have another rider.

oh yea...in the airbox i found a bracelook looking piece of metal, any idea what the hell that is for? its about bracelet sized and it either sheered apart or was made apart. ill have to get a pic of it up later.

are all of the airfilter sponge or just low grade? i ask b/c after opening the box, mine was virtiual disintegrated sponge and oil.

ive got the carb cleaner goo in the carbs...ordered new airfilter, hoses, rubber band for the battery and thats about it .

on to another question... left side coil + and - as well as right side...what is the proper placement, i may find this in climers but havent looked yet.

the store told me there is a carb rebuild kit for $126 KLN , does that seem reasonable?
 
also it seems like there is alot of dried on grease/oil everywhere on this bike. is that normal? (my rider was either well maintained, or just doesnt have this problem or both)

the oil in the airbox was almost puddled, and saturated dried out sponge.
 
Repeat after me "I will not buy carb rebuild kits " . go to cycleorings.com for a nice kit of orings- the metal parts in your carbs are fine- just gunked up. Keep all carbs/parts seperate during teardown- inspect for odd variations (unlikely)
The air filter element is just all dried out after 30 years- new one (UNI 2440) is about $20 off ebay.
Left coil fires #1 and 4-. orange/white wires connect to plus mark on coils. now is a good time to clean connections.
I have no idea what the metal bracelet thing is in airbox-maybe part of old clamp????
 
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