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still_bluenoser
Guest
TTT Anyone have any experience with my questions? I figure Katman does?
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El Giablo
Guest
I would use the GSXR ignition. El G.
mottyl
Forum Mentor
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still_bluenoser
Guest
So I think I've figured out my ground clearance problem. I just picked up this 954 top clamp.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170594863577#ht_500wt_731
It appears that I will be able to install this top clamp to lower the forks, than mount straight bar mounts to the top of the clamp with the existing threaded holes.
Or I could install this, and get clip ons with a lot of rise in them so they could be mounted under the top clamp and still have a sane riding position.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170594863577#ht_500wt_731
It appears that I will be able to install this top clamp to lower the forks, than mount straight bar mounts to the top of the clamp with the existing threaded holes.
Or I could install this, and get clip ons with a lot of rise in them so they could be mounted under the top clamp and still have a sane riding position.
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still_bluenoser
Guest
Couple of pics of new top clamp installed. Great ground clearance now!!
Lots of clearance issues with the fairing. Lower pinch bolts on bottom clamp hit the fairing frame, and the forks rub the fairing itself.
Lots of clearance issues with the fairing. Lower pinch bolts on bottom clamp hit the fairing frame, and the forks rub the fairing itself.
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Redneck
Guest
First of all let me say I hate you...just kidding... check this thread out he did a lot of what you are doing and his build came out awesome... made me want a Katana.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152706
He is around give him a PM i am sure he would give you some advice on what worked and did not work for him
Paul
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152706
He is around give him a PM i am sure he would give you some advice on what worked and did not work for him
Paul
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NBHab
Guest
All looks good Patrick. Seems you have more time on your hands than I since mine is sitting exactly where I rolled it to when I got it. I keep telling myself it's a summer project!
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still_bluenoser
Guest
I've been stealing time from things I shouldn't Greg, Make time!!! 
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Smokinapankake
Guest
Wow Paul, first time my thread's ever been referenced in another's build!
Thanks for the props, but I didn't do any fork/suspension changes. I've read that the GSX-R fork conversion rubs the fairing and fairing stay. The fairing is an easy fix, just trim to suit. The fairing stay, now that may take some more doing.....
And by the way, I only paid 200 for my Katana. Yours is much nicer than mine was, however. Congrats! It's always good to see more Katana's on here!
Thanks for the props, but I didn't do any fork/suspension changes. I've read that the GSX-R fork conversion rubs the fairing and fairing stay. The fairing is an easy fix, just trim to suit. The fairing stay, now that may take some more doing.....
And by the way, I only paid 200 for my Katana. Yours is much nicer than mine was, however. Congrats! It's always good to see more Katana's on here!
I was just looking at that tiple clamp figuring you would have to spend $350 for it; the see you stole it for about $60
That triple also looks to have holes for mounting a set of bar risers if you decided to go that way.
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still_bluenoser
Guest
I was just looking at that tiple clamp figuring you would have to spend $350 for it; the see you stole it for about $60
That triple also looks to have holes for mounting a set of bar risers if you decided to go that way.
That was as close as I usually come to being a thief
I was thinking about that, but ultimately think that the clip-ons look better with a faired bike. Also wonder about what bar I would need to work well with the Katana fairing.
I'm gona need about 2 or 3 inches riser with any clip-ons I order at this point.
Oh also I've got my 2 titanium gsxr headers now, just need to order welding rod and I'll be on that side of the project.
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still_bluenoser
Guest
Reviving this thread! I'm looking for help from fellow Kat owners who installed a B12 swingarm.
A couple clearance issues...
First one is the stud for the return spring on the brake switch. I ground the head of it down slightly, but it's still way on the welds once I drop the swingarm about 14 inches from eye to eye on the shocks. I guess it will depend on which shocks I choose.
Next is the mount on the LH side for the chain guard. Do you guys grind this off than find a new way to mount a chain guard? It makes contact on both up and down movement of the swingarm.
katman, I'm using your adaptor bushings on the pivot bolt.
Next question, Andre I know I asked you this a while back, but that PM is gone...
What is the stackup of the spacers on the rear wheel? 93 GSXR750 wheel and brake bracket. I have a custom made spacer from Andre, and a standard B12 spacer.
Also there is the hat shaped spacer and a washer...
Here is how it sits with 12in of shock (wood) under it. Jack isn't taking weight.
A couple clearance issues...
First one is the stud for the return spring on the brake switch. I ground the head of it down slightly, but it's still way on the welds once I drop the swingarm about 14 inches from eye to eye on the shocks. I guess it will depend on which shocks I choose.
Next is the mount on the LH side for the chain guard. Do you guys grind this off than find a new way to mount a chain guard? It makes contact on both up and down movement of the swingarm.
katman, I'm using your adaptor bushings on the pivot bolt.
Next question, Andre I know I asked you this a while back, but that PM is gone...
What is the stackup of the spacers on the rear wheel? 93 GSXR750 wheel and brake bracket. I have a custom made spacer from Andre, and a standard B12 spacer.
Also there is the hat shaped spacer and a washer...
Here is how it sits with 12in of shock (wood) under it. Jack isn't taking weight.
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ukilme
Guest
From memory. It will be custom spacer first then the hub/wheel. Make sure your hub spacer is the GS spacer and not the GSXR. Then the top hat spacer, brake hanger and washer.
There was a little too much taken off of the hanger. That's why there is the washer. If you put the washer before the hang, your rotor and caliper spacing will be off.
-I would still double check your wheel alignment. It should be fine but every frame it a little different. If it doesn't align, use the B12 spacer with your other brake hanger and it should be fine but check again.
You could cut the return spring stud and a mount the return spring some else. Get a longer spring.
On the LH side, I had just grinded it (footpeg bolt hole) down before cutting them off to go with Busa pegs.
I have seen some thread on other boards, were they heat the brackets up and use a bottle jack to spread them a mm or 2. But you, I would think, risk a chance of cracking the tubing or breaking the welds.
There was a little too much taken off of the hanger. That's why there is the washer. If you put the washer before the hang, your rotor and caliper spacing will be off.
-I would still double check your wheel alignment. It should be fine but every frame it a little different. If it doesn't align, use the B12 spacer with your other brake hanger and it should be fine but check again.
You could cut the return spring stud and a mount the return spring some else. Get a longer spring.
On the LH side, I had just grinded it (footpeg bolt hole) down before cutting them off to go with Busa pegs.
I have seen some thread on other boards, were they heat the brackets up and use a bottle jack to spread them a mm or 2. But you, I would think, risk a chance of cracking the tubing or breaking the welds.
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Smokinapankake
Guest
I'm interested to see how you tackle the fairing frame clearance issue....
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Guest
Guest
wow, what a cheap bike. There is a dude on craigs here wanting 5,500 for two parts bikes. Good luck to him.
The foreward chain guard mount has to come off.
your brake spring tab needs to be relocated, or you can spread the peg stays out 1/4" to give you clearance. Would also would need to spacer the brake plunger out as well to keep the plunger arm straight inline. This also helps with the actuator on the peddle. The stopper pad on the actuator needs to be drownd down as well.
You need the .650" spacer on the sprocket side with a bandit arm combined with the bandit offset sprocket I sent you.
Use the GS sprocket carrier and inner bushing. MOving on to the right side of the wheel. You have an "S" style spoke wheel so you need the same year spacer for between the hanger and the wheel. The straight spoke wheels have a different offset on the rotor and use a different spacer. If you are using a bandit hanger and brake caliper it can get complicated. You will know when the caliper is aligned becuse the center of the rotor will be inline with the center of the caliper (the seam that runs down the center of the caliper)
The foreward chain guard mount has to come off.
your brake spring tab needs to be relocated, or you can spread the peg stays out 1/4" to give you clearance. Would also would need to spacer the brake plunger out as well to keep the plunger arm straight inline. This also helps with the actuator on the peddle. The stopper pad on the actuator needs to be drownd down as well.
You need the .650" spacer on the sprocket side with a bandit arm combined with the bandit offset sprocket I sent you.
Use the GS sprocket carrier and inner bushing. MOving on to the right side of the wheel. You have an "S" style spoke wheel so you need the same year spacer for between the hanger and the wheel. The straight spoke wheels have a different offset on the rotor and use a different spacer. If you are using a bandit hanger and brake caliper it can get complicated. You will know when the caliper is aligned becuse the center of the rotor will be inline with the center of the caliper (the seam that runs down the center of the caliper)
G
Guest
Guest
Couple of pics of new top clamp installed. Great ground clearance now!!
Lots of clearance issues with the fairing. Lower pinch bolts on bottom clamp hit the fairing frame, and the forks rub the fairing itself.
I am a little worried looking at the top triple. It is two pieces bolted together with spacers yes?
I will also tell you that the 954 top triple will not fit onto the 93-95 lower gsxr 750 triple. The stem offset is different. Yes, you can force it on with all the pinch bolts loose but they don't line up when tight. That will be putting more stress on your clamps and fork tubes.
Sorry M8, don't want to be wet blanket. Just want you to be safe.
As for clearance, you can space out the fairing frame with spacers or washers and or grind a 45 degree angle into the pinch bolt head and I think you will find you are good to go.
G
Guest
Guest
One more thing, you can't use the 954 ignition because it is in the way of the center fairing mount that goes to the neck. Feel free to email me directly with any questions at all and don't forget about suzuki-katana.com, it has lots of tech info there.
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still_bluenoser
Guest
Wow, Info overload!!! 
I'll start with the swingarm. I'll have to relocate the spring tab, I'm not a fan of the thought of spreading the peg stays. I'm sure you have relocated it before, any pics of what you did there?
I guess I'll have to get creative with a chain guard too.
The LH side of the wheel is good to go, I'll have to ask ukilme if the wheel he was using was from a 93 to see if the RH spacer I have is correct.
Top Clamp: Its the one part of the bike so far that I really am conflicted about. The alignment issue not as much as the design of the clamp. Its not just bolted, the underside of the clamp is welded, I plan on bringing it to a welder I know to have the entire thing welded, and than have it powdercoated.
Main thing I dont care for is the decreased distance between the lower and upper clamp. I feel that there is much more force placed on the upper clamp with the decreased space... I'm going to work with it for a while, once I get it completely welded and everything tightened up I'll make my final decision.
I was planning on using the GSXR ignition switch, or trying to make the Kat switch work. I've already had both bolted up to the clamp with spacers that were provided with it.
I really appreciate the help!!
I'll start with the swingarm. I'll have to relocate the spring tab, I'm not a fan of the thought of spreading the peg stays. I'm sure you have relocated it before, any pics of what you did there?
I guess I'll have to get creative with a chain guard too.
The LH side of the wheel is good to go, I'll have to ask ukilme if the wheel he was using was from a 93 to see if the RH spacer I have is correct.
Top Clamp: Its the one part of the bike so far that I really am conflicted about. The alignment issue not as much as the design of the clamp. Its not just bolted, the underside of the clamp is welded, I plan on bringing it to a welder I know to have the entire thing welded, and than have it powdercoated.
Main thing I dont care for is the decreased distance between the lower and upper clamp. I feel that there is much more force placed on the upper clamp with the decreased space... I'm going to work with it for a while, once I get it completely welded and everything tightened up I'll make my final decision.
I was planning on using the GSXR ignition switch, or trying to make the Kat switch work. I've already had both bolted up to the clamp with spacers that were provided with it.
I really appreciate the help!!
U
ukilme
Guest
Yap, it was a 93 GSXR 750
I would listen to Rob. If you read my old thread, you will see some discussion on the rear spacer and wheel alignment. It is a good read on what and not what to do. I know Rob and Posplayr both used .650" spacers but for some reason my I had to add a 2 or 3mm. I can not remember.
I believe the stock B12 RH spacer is .650" or 16.6mm. Measure it. And the B12 RH spacer is the same part as your stock GSXR750 RH spacer.
Also, when checking wheel alignment, I would take the tires off and just use the rims.
I would listen to Rob. If you read my old thread, you will see some discussion on the rear spacer and wheel alignment. It is a good read on what and not what to do. I know Rob and Posplayr both used .650" spacers but for some reason my I had to add a 2 or 3mm. I can not remember.
I believe the stock B12 RH spacer is .650" or 16.6mm. Measure it. And the B12 RH spacer is the same part as your stock GSXR750 RH spacer.
Also, when checking wheel alignment, I would take the tires off and just use the rims.
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G
Guest
Guest
Wow, Info overload!!!
I'll start with the swingarm. I'll have to relocate the spring tab, I'm not a fan of the thought of spreading the peg stays. I'm sure you have relocated it before, any pics of what you did there?
I guess I'll have to get creative with a chain guard too.
The LH side of the wheel is good to go, I'll have to ask ukilme if the wheel he was using was from a 93 to see if the RH spacer I have is correct.
Top Clamp: Its the one part of the bike so far that I really am conflicted about. The alignment issue not as much as the design of the clamp. Its not just bolted, the underside of the clamp is welded, I plan on bringing it to a welder I know to have the entire thing welded, and than have it powdercoated.
Main thing I dont care for is the decreased distance between the lower and upper clamp. I feel that there is much more force placed on the upper clamp with the decreased space... I'm going to work with it for a while, once I get it completely welded and everything tightened up I'll make my final decision.
I was planning on using the GSXR ignition switch, or trying to make the Kat switch work. I've already had both bolted up to the clamp with spacers that were provided with it.
I really appreciate the help!!
You can cut the return tab in half and with a welder blob the top and grind flat. Or cut it downa and weld on a flat washer. There is far more room than need be for that spring.
As for the brake switch which you haven't mentioned yet, I would go with a banjo bolt switch. Very easy fix, other wise you need to find another tab for the brake switch. I just cut it off, its cleaner that way and use the banjo pressure switch.
Spreading the stays with a ram or hydrolic jack is very easy by the way.
The kat ignition can be made to fit pretty easy. its only plastic and you can carve it and drill a couple holes in it for mounting. I have done that with a few kats. The GSXR ignition doesn't mount up the the existing holes.
