83 550E stator & regulator

[don]

OK. So I ride my bike into work Friday 7-2-10. On my way home I stop at the store. When I get out to leave, it won't turn over, like a dead batt. I pop start it, get it home and let it cool down so I can work on it. While it's cooling, I charge the battery for a while so I can start it and do the voltage checks. End result, one burned up leg of the stator and no AC voltage from it. I call my local guy and order up a Rick's Electric stator and reg/rect. There's that part.

Immediaately I go to the stator papers and read them, then, read them, then read them again. I got it! Make sure all of the connections are good. Then do it again to be sure. That was done over the winter,(along with a new battery). Every connector I could find I cleaned with a brush and put dielectric grease on them, even the fuse box connectors and lugs. Litterally a week ago I put the voltmeter on my battery just to check things out and all was in order. 13.7V at idle and 14.2V at and above 5000rpm.

So, back to the stator papers. I understand that all 3 phases are rectified but only 2 are regulated. Due to my haste in ordering the parts before reading the papers, (and finding out I can get a 3 phase regulated unit), I am at a quandry. Do I put the parts I already purchased in and go, or do I buy the 3-phase jobber and try to sell the one I just got. I know I'll have a hard time getting rid of it here because I am probably the only guy here that didn't know about this due to my not reading the papers.

Kind of stuck here with my internal conflict. I really don't want to spend another $100 for something I know I already have and will work, but as everyone here seems to say, is inferior.

Thanks in advance.

Please advise.....................:-&

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I like having spare parts around. If you don't, offer it up on ebay or the parts for sale section.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[don]

So are you saying I should use my better judgement and get the 3-phaser, or do you just want parts..........:-\\\

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I guess I really didn't answer your question.

Thanks, but I've got spares. You can't go wrong installing the beefier part. But you probably won't be able to recoup your investment on the other part. Might as well keep it for a spare, or not.

Bleh, I'm no help at all.

I'll hang up on myself now.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

The stators are ALL the same!!! 3 phase.
Confusion is that the third leg runs up thru the light switch before going to the regulator.
It is suggested to run the third leg direct to the regulator bypassing the light switch.

 

[BassCliff]

Hmmm,

For some reason I thought you had purchased an extra regulator/rectifier unit. Are you saying you'll have an extra stator?

Lynn is so right. Disconnect that useless loop of wire to the (probably non-existant) headlight switch and connect all three legs of the stator directly to the r/r inputs.

Feel free to see the guides on my website for r/r and stator replacement and testing. They might help supplement the Stator Papers.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[don]

Thanks fellas.

I haven't physicly checked yet, but I don't think " the one phase" goes anywhere but directly to the R/R unit on my bike. I could be wrong because I have not checked.

I have gone through the stator and R/R stuff on your site. It will definitly be used as reference material when I put the parts in. I like the photos that accompany the details. (IE the whole stator wire grommet thing in the side cover. Great pointers.)

I may be going against my better judgement, but I think I'm going to put the parts I've purchased already in the bike. I'll have to keep a good eye on the charging voltage and the condition of the stator wires where they connect under the tank. I might even buy a cheap voltmeter from Autozone or somewhere and tuck it someplace out of sight but easy to get at for quick peeks. Behind a side cover or under the seat somewhere maybe. Any thoughts about that?

And since I have decided to just use the parts I have already purchased, no I will not have any spare parts. Sory.

Thanks
Don

 

[don]

OK.

Scratch my last post (#7). The angel on my right shouldr just poked the devil on my left in the eye with his thumb. I AM listening to the smart little voice in my head and getting the Electro-Sport R/R and sending the Rick's Electric one back.

I'm in sutch mental anguish over my indecision and anxt to ride....................:-k:-& lol

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I'm happy for your decisiveness.

If there is a next time, buy a great used Honda r/r unit from Mr. duaneage, a member in good standing here. Just send him a PM and he'll send you an upgraded r/r unit, tested, ready to bolt on, for about $45 or so. Lots of GSR members use his parts. He's a good guy.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[don]

Hey!!!!! How the heck are you supposed to put the wires back on these things??!!! LOL:lol:

Removed the old stator wires from the factory harnes and routed the new stator wires directly to where my new ELECTRO-SPORT R/R is going to be on Wed or Thurs.

I have to wait longer but.................I'll be able to ride longer as a reward. (At least on the charging system. lol)

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

MMMmmmm, toasty!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[don]

You really like that staor of mine don't you? I can mail it to you if you'd like. :lol: lol Or did you already print, frame and hang the photo up in your garage? :dancing:

 

[don]

Additional Inquiries

Additional Inquiries

I've been trying to find out the answer to this but haen't found an answer yet. Can anyone tell me what the current draw of the main hot wire for the entire bike should be? (Basicly the current through the DC output wire of the regulator.)

I measured it on my bike and it's around 13-14 amps. Does this seem appropriate? My guess is it's at least close. I also measured the current through the coil relay, ( the wire right from the battery to the relay contact set), and it's about 5 amps. I figure the headlight, tail light, and gauge lights have to ammount to about annother 5-7 amps. I also have to guess the ignition box and various dropps across the key switch, right handle bar kill swith, brake switches, etc would be annother 2-3 amps. Added all up it seems in the ball park, (5A + +6A + 2.5A = 13.5A).

I know all of my battery to fuse box and ground voltage dropps are good because i did measure them. The ground voltage drop is exactly zero because I have done the single point thing, and the drop across the battery + and the supply side of the fuse box is .08 whitch is the same as from the battery + to the regulator DC output.

As allways, experienced input is welcome and appreciated.........

Thank you.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi.

The biggest fuse in your fuse box should be 15 amps.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[tom203]

I like your current research! As Basscliff said, the biggest fuse (main fuse) is 15 amp. Now you're probably thinking that all these current loads are just about to trip that 15 amp fuse. But actually the r/r positive (red) output does not all go thru that fuse- it goes directly( this is very debatable in a suzuki wiring harness ) to the fuses of the ignition system, lights, etc. - with any leftovers thru that main fuse to recharge battery. Of course, some folks wire r/r red wire ( with seperate fuse ) direct to battery to eliminate connection woes.
I'm curious about stator output myself- have many tests in mind , but I'm lazy and just want to ride before cold arrives.

 

[posplayr]

I've been trying to find out the answer to this but haen't found an answer yet. Can anyone tell me what the current draw of the main hot wire for the entire bike should be? (Basicly the current through the DC output wire of the regulator.)

I measured it on my bike and it's around 13-14 amps. Does this seem appropriate? My guess is it's at least close. I also measured the current through the coil relay, ( the wire right from the battery to the relay contact set), and it's about 5 amps. I figure the headlight, tail light, and gauge lights have to ammount to about annother 5-7 amps. I also have to guess the ignition box and various dropps across the key switch, right handle bar kill swith, brake switches, etc would be annother 2-3 amps. Added all up it seems in the ball park, (5A + +6A + 2.5A = 13.5A).

I know all of my battery to fuse box and ground voltage dropps are good because i did vmeasure them. The ground voltage drop is exactly zero because I have done the single point thing, and the drop across the battery + and the supply side of the fuse box is .08 whitch is the same as from the battery + to the regulator DC output.

As allways, experienced input is welcome and appreciated.........

Thank you.

.
Your measurements sound correct . Not sure why you thnk the electrosport r/r is of any particular advantage? The electr osport stator on the other hand I feel is good value. If you have a persistent issue with burning up stators get the compufire series r/r or see if you can sneak by with a Honda r/r. Isuspect with that 550you rev it retty well and so yur are stressing your stator to the point of smoking it.

 

[don]

Thanks for the responses fellas.

( Posplayr, to answer your inquiry about why I put the E-Sport R/R in..., because not only was it recommended by others here but there is a link right in the stator papers, ( the holy grail of electrical here), for it. Even the most unobservant idividual couldn't miss the suggestion......).

The reason I'm asking all of this is because I've gone through all of the above stuff with the stator and R/R because they had expired. All seems well with the new parts. Good voltages etc. I looked under the seat to make sure all was well with the connectors and one was starting to look like it had gotten hot and disscolored. It was the R/R DC output connection. That's what prompted me to start measuring actual current in stead of voltage. That one connector got so hot that it melted the plastic housing the male spades are in on the E-sport unit. I have since cut that wire out of the E-sport plug and put a high amp, (50A @14VDC), connector in it's place. My guess is this is what happened when I smoked the stator and R/R. I think the same thing happened and the connector melted to the point that the DC output and one of the AC wires shorted.

With all that said, you can see all of my voltage dropps are also in good order, are there any thoughts as to why I am experiencing this? I would really hate to spend all of that money and time again. ( I've put about 300-400 miles on since the new parts). I just don't know if I missed anything or did something incorrectly.

Thanks.

 

[don]

Forgot to mention, the voltage drop measurements were before I repaired the connector, they were with the " overheated " connector. With the new connector the voltage drop on the positive side is .01 volts.

 

[don]

Well, I've put about 300 miles on since my repair and there is no signs of reoccurenc of my issue. I have to believe my problem was with my execution of connecting the two parts. I may have not got the connector "plugged in" correctly the first time. all is well so far........... I take the seat off and check after every ride to look.

I know we banter some posplayr, but I do believe you're correct about you're persistance about connections.......Thanks..........

 

[don]

Here's a couple of pics of the connector on my Electrosport R/R.

The yellow wire with the blue crimp on connector is one I did a while ago because that one had started to melt soon after i replaced all of this. I now have all blue crimp-ons.

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s350/donmod/DSC00172.jpg

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s350/donmod/DSC00174.jpg