'83 gs 1100 wiring question

[ptomkrvr]

Hello all, I bought another one. Thanks to responses from previous questions, looked at, and liked the GL version. I took off the battery box to paint , didn't note where all the wires came from, and am paying the price. There are two grounding wires(blk./wt. ,wth eyelets) that are with the harnesses relative to the rectofier. They look like they go to the hardware that holds the frame where a lot of stuff goes on the side of the battery. The battery box is not grounded,on purpose, and I am worried I might be doing a bad by doing so. One short wire really looks like it went to a screw that holds the selenoid on,(this one is grounded) the other,(not grounded) not sure. I have a feeling I am asking a question that is like the top of a funnel, but if you can help. thanks PS. I hope to be getting a used manual I got from amazon in the mail today. I am dislexic, so can't spell etc. , hate computers, but ain't dumb. thanks again

 

[ptomkrvr]

Doing my homework. The Stator Papers are a blessing, and make more sense after I more or less took everything apart, and put back together again. I have the concept. The ground wire from the R/R will go to the battery. I think I,m going to be ready to start checking. There is a diode in the headlamp that I can't find anything on. I will check, hopefully it has resistance in one direction. thanks

 

[Steve]

If you look at the schematic, the diode is between the low oil pressure light and the sidestand switch.

If I remember correctly, if the sidestand is down, it only lights its own light, but if the oil pressure is low,
it lights its light and the sidestand light to draw your attention quicker.

.

 

[Redman]

If you look at the schematic, the diode is between the low oil pressure light and the sidestand switch.

If I remember correctly, if the sidestand is down, it only lights its own light, but if the oil pressure is low,
it lights its light and the sidestand light to draw your attention quicker.

.

Good description.

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[Redman]

...
.... The battery box is not grounded,on purpose, and I am worried I might be doing a bad by doing so. One short wire really looks like it went to a screw that holds the selenoid on,(this one is grounded) the other,(not grounded) not sure. ..........
.........

You can run the R/R ground to any ground, and that will be okay for the R/R operation (better yet: to battery negitive).

But that is not the main thing I want to state here.

You may also find that if you dont have a ground wire to the battery box (solenoid mounting stud) that the solenoid may not pull in. Notice that the solenoid itself does not have a negitive wire, the solenoid relys on its case being grounded. WHich is one reason the battery box has that black/white wire from the wiring harness connected to the battery box (typically the ring terminal there on the solenoid mounting bolt.) since the battery box itself may not be well grounded to the bike frame.

And many folks (myslef included) will recommend adding your own wire from that battery box point (solenoid mounting bolt) to battery negitive. So not relying on that blk/wht wire in the wiring harness. Adding this additional wire is moslty intended for the purposes of the R/R operation, but also serves the solenoid also.

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[ptomkrvr]

Thanks, that is the way I set it up. That is, I grounded the battery box complex with the ground from the harness. I grounded the R/R to the battery. I tested my charging system, and my numbers are good,but will keep an eye out for a bargain stator or R/R, just in case. I put a 12v load on that diod thingy,or whatever it is, in the headlight, and it had flow in one direction, and resistance in the other, so I guess it is doing what it should. My manual calls for a front blimker with one tit, but there are two **** in the base. I put some 1157's in, and now I blow a fuse when I pull the front brakes...... I can't express what a great "site" this is, besided the bickering. I have other bikes I will list, when my wife shous me how to do it.