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83 GS1100 starter clutch failure

  • Thread starter Thread starter johnbtrask
  • Start date Start date
J

johnbtrask

Guest
Went on a ride with some friends several weeks ago and when I tried to restart the engine the starter motor just spun without turning the engine over. Managed to get the motor going by rolling down hill but had to park on a grade whenever I stopped for the rest of the ride. I knew something was seriously wrong with the starter clutch under the left side cover.

After draining the oil and pulling the stator cover I still couldn't see a problem, and knew that I'd have to pull the rotor, which I tried to do with universal type gear puller but it wouldn't budge. I ordered the Suzuki puller based on part number from the factory shop manual and when it arrived it was the wrong one. Turns out Suzuki mixed up the numbers some time in the last 25 years. They finally tracked down the correct one and when I finally got the rotor off (boy it was tight - heard a loud snap when it finally came loose, and thought something might have broken, but all was well).

With the rotor off the problem was instantly apparent. All three of the 3/4" long cap screws that attach the starter clutch cage to the back of the rotor had sheared off. They aren't real hard because I had no trouble drilling pilot holes for the Ez-Out into ends that were still threaded into the rotor.

There is a new part number for the bolts, and I suspect they have been redesigned. It will be nice to get the bike back on the road I've missed riding it.
 
ok, is there a technical question you want to ask, or were you just venting??

the 1100e's are good for breaking starter clutches, Suzuki kept developing bigger and more power from the engines but never improved or strengthened the design of the starter clutch.
 
John

John

If you have a caliper I would measure the outside surface of the large gear where the barrels go Also the size of the barrels. I can give you the numbers to what they should be and what size will stop working.

I installed once without the bearing and the clutch ground itself down :o so i know exactly what tolerance is too small to run; you can guiage how much life you have then.

A new clutch assembly is $95 from Flat Out. Given the hassle I have changed them out for new.
Also use red loc tire on the bolts and the tapered surface when reinstalling. Sounds like you were pretty lucky getting it off. I have had to heat with Mapp gas to break down the locktite material (about 400 deg F).
Jim
 
I think this is the same issue on my bike. Not sure yet as there are electrical issues as well that are stopping me from hitting the start button. But from what the PO described... sounds like this.

At least there is a solution.
 
83 GS1100 ES starter clutch followup

83 GS1100 ES starter clutch followup

It was kind of a rhetorical answer, you know, one that doesn't require a question.

Actually I thought I would just post the information and see what responses came back.

I'm considering replacing the bolts with higher grade ones.
I like the information about replacing the whole clutch cage and the barrels but it was working fine before it wasn't working fine, and another gasket only costs a few bucks as opposed to the cost of the new assembly.
It took 25 years for the bolts to let go so maybe I'll just replace them with the factory parts. (I probably won't be around when they break again)
 
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