83 GS1100e Cylinder Gasket Replacement

[Guest]

I developed a leak right the very front in the middle (where the hump with the 6mm bolt is) that is getting worse and need to replace the cylinder head gasket.

Besides the cam cover gasket and the actual cylinder head gasket, what other parts would you recommend to get in advance of pulling the head.

This is my first time doing this, what is the level of difficulty for someone with just average mechanical skills. Anyone have step by step of what to watch for, things I should absolutely do while having the head off, etc.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John

 

[rapidray]

John, while it IS possible it could be the base gasket, I would first replace the o rings on the front, center 2 head nuts that are on both sides of the cam chain galley. I have seen this as the issue more times than the base gasket. Call me at 714-356-7845 if you want help or have more questions. Ray.

 

[BadBillyB]

Besides the cam cover gasket and the actual cylinder head gasket, what other parts would you recommend to get in advance of pulling the head.

Hey John, you will need an inch/lb and a ft/lb torque wrench, a good manual, and of course these great forum members.....Billy

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys! Ray, I will definitely try that first. Can you please let me know the part number you are referring to from the attached fische. Thanks!
http://www.gssuzuki.com/fiche_image...tegory=Motorcycles&dc=3675&name=CYLINDER+HEAD

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Thanks guys! Ray, I will definitely try that first. Can you please let me know the part number you are referring to from the attached fische. Thanks!
http://www.gssuzuki.com/fiche_image...tegory=Motorcycles&dc=3675&name=CYLINDER+HEAD

It would be part #17.

 

[Guest]

Well, I followed Rapidray's advice and it fixed the whole problem. $5.00 in parts and no more leaks! Thanks Ray as this saved a bunch of money and especially aggrevation as I would have replaced the base gasket and it would have still leaked. You're the man!

 

[ramrod400]

Is it possible when those o-rings are bad, oil could get in exhaust pipe , Bike is blowing smoke badly but spark plugs and commpression fine ???

 

[posplayr]

Is it possible when those o-rings are bad, oil could get in exhaust pipe , Bike is blowing smoke badly but spark plugs and commpression fine ???

No

oil leaks past the o-rings from inside the cam gallery. It leaks out and flows down front of engine.

 

[rapidray]

Well, I followed Rapidray's advice and it fixed the whole problem. $5.00 in parts and no more leaks! Thanks Ray as this saved a bunch of money and especially aggrevation as I would have replaced the base gasket and it would have still leaked. You're the man!

AWESOME!!! Glad to have helped! Ray.

 

[Gravity Tester]

John, while it IS possible it could be the base gasket, I would first replace the o rings on the front, center 2 head nuts that are on both sides of the cam chain galley. I have seen this as the issue more times than the base gasket. Call me at 714-356-7845 if you want help or have more questions. Ray.

This is a great thread!!
Looking at the fiche just the valve cover need to get pulled is correct?

 

[Guest]

That is correct. Remove the valve cover, remove the two bolts next to the cam channel, grease up the replacement o rings, re-torque, replace valve cover gasket if necessary and torque down the valve cover. Easy! Rapidray saved the day as I have had not had any leaks since I did this.

John

 

[UncleMike]

Preparing to attempt this fix on Pat's (GravityTester) '83 750ES. Looking at the 'fiche from his bike, it looks like #11 is a gasket for an internal nut.

Can we assume this could be the corresponding part?

 

[Guest]

I am not sure, maybe someone with better knowledge on the 750 will chime in. But it looks very similar except mine was actually an oring that fit into a groove in the bolt.

 

[UncleMike]

Any 750 experts want to give this a second glance?

 

[Gravity Tester]

Big Thanks to Ray!!! My bad wrong Motor.

 

[warthog72]

I have an 81' 650 with the exact same issue. As someone that can follow directions but has no real mechanical experience, is this something I can do without too much hassle? Do I need to remove the gas tank first or the exhaust pipes? Is it possible to just do all the work with those parts in place? Outside having the proper torque tools, it sounds like its screws and rings - which I'm hoping I can deal with

The yellow square shows where the oil sputters out. The leak starts within about a minute of starting the bike up.

Thank you kindly in advance.

 

[tkent02]

I have an 81' 650 with the exact same issue. As someone that can follow directions but has no real mechanical experience, is this something I can do without too much hassle? Do I need to remove the gas tank first or the exhaust pipes? Is it possible to just do all the work with those parts in place? Outside having the proper torque tools, it sounds like its screws and rings - which I'm hoping I can deal with

The yellow square shows where the oil sputters out. The leak starts within about a minute of starting the bike up.

Thank you kindly in advance.

You just need a new valve cover gasket. It's time to adjust your valves anyway.

 

[Nessism]

You just need a new valve cover gasket. It's time to adjust your valves anyway.

Hardest part is cleaning off the old gasket, and waiting for the valve shims you are sure to need.

 

[tkent02]

Hardest part is cleaning off the old gasket, and waiting for the valve shims you are sure to need.

Replace the tach drive seals while you're in there too.

 

[Homie]

Preparing to attempt this fix on Pat's (GravityTester) '83 750ES. Looking at the 'fiche from his bike, it looks like #11 is a gasket for an internal nut.

Can we assume this could be the corresponding part?

#11 should be a copper washer. The aforementioned "o-ring" that Ray was talking about goes in a groove on a specialized nut in the location of #10. However, in the illustration #10 "looks" like a regular "acorn" nut. Is that illustration correct? It says "GS750ESD E3" at the bottom but it "looks" more like a 2V head to me. Unless of course the 750 4V head is significantly different inside the cam cover than the 1100 4V head? Anyway, the o-ring on the 1100 4V head goes on nut #10.