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83 GS1100ES Stator wiring?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rodgs1100es
  • Start date Start date
R

rodgs1100es

Guest
Hi Gang!
I'm replacing the stator in my 83 GS1100ES and see that the wires are all the same yellow.
How do I know what wire goes to what pin in the new connector.
Thanks in advance.
Rod
 
All three yellow wires are the exact same so where you put them doesn't matter. If you haven't done so already wire them directly to the outputs on the regulator vs running them into the harness.
 
Welcome to the forum. If you haven't already considered changing your R/R to a series type, you might want to think about it, it might just be the last Stator you will ever have to replace on that bike.
 
Pardon my inexperience, the R/R series type sound good, I like the idea of never having to do this again.
The problem being: I don't know what that is, what is an R/R and where might I find one?
Thanks again
 
Um well most owners of motorcycle never have to ask what a R\R is but since this is an old Suzuki forum.

Regulator Rectifier is what R\R stands for and the GS bikes are famous for having crappy ones.

Most folks on here uses a Polaris model SH775 R\R while others use a model made by a company called Compufire.

Ill get you the links
brb
 
Thanks folks!
I did know what a regulator/rectifier is after all, it took a minute to figure out the abbreviation, I'm a little slow today :p
I guess the frustration of getting left on the side of the road and all.
Comufire ordered and installation will occur within minutes of arrival.
 
Well I'm here to ask advice, if I don't listen what would be the point in being here?
You folks have been dealing with this for longer than I.
The other point being: what's the harm in replacing the regulator? If the one there isn't the OEM, it's been there a long time, it's not that expensive and if it means that I never have to do the stator again, it's cheap insurance .:clap:
 
My God man you are shooting for new guy of the year award :)
I changed mine after it blew up its last OEM unit.
Bought the compufire which is pricier than the SH775. Worth it just for peace of mind.
 
Let me also say that I'm not a kid and although I was out for some time, I'm not new to the sport.
I even worked in the business for some time in my younger years.
And again: you folks have dealt with this for more time than I and I was aware of the inherent charging system issues with these bikes.
I've just never done the repairs myself before.
I've liked the GS1100's all along and this one came up for sale just as I was looking for a new ride, the very first Question I asked the guy selling it was: has the stator been done?
 
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I'll post some pictures once I have it back together, I hope next week, I'm waiting for the stator and some other upgrades as well.
Got some work to do!
 
A few small things that might help, I use a towel covered sandbag to hold the stator cover in place so I have hands free with my impact tool to remove the screws. They are locked with stator varnish. Use a good screw locking compound when putting the new stator in. The three 10gauge wires from the Compu-fire go directly to the three stator wires abandoning the loop that went through the headlight switch. I used modern waterproof connectors for the connections and used single connectors so they wouldn't heat each other up. Use the Suzuki R/R feed, run the ground directly to the battery negative. Suzuki did a bad job with the grounds when they designed the harness. Provide a heavier ground to one of the mounting bolts of the Compu-Fire and this can be used as a single point ground for the bike (you will have extra wire left from the Compu-Fire for a nice ground directly to the battery). You will have to cheat a little on the connectors because of the dissimilar wire sizes from the stator and the 10gauge wires from the Compu-Fire. I used my stripper to remove some of the 10gauge strands, making it a smaller gauge wire. (10gauge is overkill, our bikes don't produce enough current to use them) The first set of crimp wings worked fine. I removed a little more insulation and crimped the second set of wings directly on the wire strands also. The waterproof seal will not fit because of the insulation size on the 10gauge wire, but it almost fills the connector barrel. I put a little silicon around the end to seal the wire. Don't squeeze it into the barrel unless you use the electrical silicon, but it is far enough in that there is no direct contact with the wire so clear household silicon should be fine. Here is a link to the connectors I used. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/FKWH/fkwh.html
 
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Wow!
Really digging the help folks!
As for the award: "It's an honor just to be nominated". LOL.
I'll post results once the stator and R/R are installed.
And just for fun I'm going to replace the battery again as well, a fresh start all the way around.
As for connectors, I was an electronics guy for a good deal of my life and if I'm going to hard wire the system, I'm a big fan of solder and shrink wrap.
I got lucky removing the old stator, the screws came out fairly easily but I am going to have to find replacements for the wire retaining devices inside the cover (I messed those ones up?
 
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Solder is good if there are no cold solder joints but it really limits you in testing ,diagnostics and flexibility.
 
OldVet66 said:
Solder is good if there are no cold solder joints but it really limits you in testing ,diagnostics and flexibility.
Click to expand...

With a new stator, battery and series regulator he shouldn't need any testing ,diagnostics and flexibility. But a real electronic paranoia guy could add a few permanent test points to help with future anxiety.
 
OK, Now here's my next question, I'm sure it'll be one of those painfully obvious (insert eye roll here) one to my new found GS aficionado palls but please remember, I'm new here.
What is the third connection from the battery?
The one with what appears to be a sensor inserted into one of the cells, there is a resistor inline.
Would having that disconnected have an impact on charging?
 
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