83 GS550E Rotor Puller What Size ?

[GQROD]

Hi all,

What size Rotor puller do i need to remover the rotor assembly from a 1983 GS550E ? I need to install a new one.

I took the cover off and the rotor has two magnets that are destroyed, seems the PO did nto put the alignment pin on the cover and the bolts holding the stator hit the magnets and trashed them.

Bike bandit has the attachment piece part # 09930-30180

but this i think is meant to be used with a slide hammer, don't know if a auto body slide hammer will work with this attachment.

Thanks

 

[Guest]

Hope this helps

Hope this helps

I can only answer this based on what I found when I needed a rotor puller for my 85 1150. If your 83 550 is the same, this will help.
Remove the nut (on the end of crank) and you will see that the rotor has male threads at the center. Measure the outers cercumferance of the threads. On mine it is 30mm. From what I have found the pullers are sized in millimeters. The puller will look like a deepwell socket with female threads on the inside and (at least in my case) a bolt that is screwed into the other end. I have never seen a puller that would attach to a slide hammer - but I can see how that would work.
Hope this helps.

 

[Scotts]

I would be inclined to purchase the tool described above. I would not be jerking about with a slide hammer on the end of the crankshaft with a slide hammer. It would be possible to damage the the crankshaft and supporting characters with it.

YMMV

Scott

 

[GQROD]

I can only answer this based on what I found when I needed a rotor puller for my 85 1150. If your 83 550 is the same, this will help.
Remove the nut (on the end of crank) and you will see that the rotor has male threads at the center. Measure the outers cercumferance of the threads. On mine it is 30mm. From what I have found the pullers are sized in millimeters. The puller will look like a deepwell socket with female threads on the inside and (at least in my case) a bolt that is screwed into the other end. I have never seen a puller that would attach to a slide hammer - but I can see how that would work.
Hope this helps.

Thanks, i really appreciate the advice, i did read in prior posts about the 1150 having a 30mm just wasn't sure, but i will measure it.

The factory manual shows and gives a part number for the slide and the attachment that is why i was curious, also.....

Since others have had problems with the regular pullers that look like sockets ( stripping threads etc ) i wanted to be sure before i replace the rotor, the PO relaly did a number on this bike.

The threads are damaged slightly and two of the magnets are broken into pieces with some still on the rotor, this could have been the rattling sound i heard and the vibration i had noticed.

Thanks for the help i appreciate it.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

I would be inclined to purchase the tool described above. I would not be jerking about with a slide hammer on the end of the crankshaft with a slide hammer. It would be possible to damage the the crankshaft and supporting characters with it.

YMMV

Scott

It is strange that the official Suzuki rotor removing tool is in the form of a slide hammer. Check it out in the tools section at the rear of the Suzuki Factory manual.

 

[GQROD]

It is strange that the official Suzuki rotor removing tool is in the form of a slide hammer. Check it out in the tools section at the rear of the Suzuki Factory manual.

Thanks i will look it up to make sure.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

These are the relevant pages and pics. The bolt size that did screw into the centre of my generator rotor was 14mm by 1.5mm pitch. Dont know if yours is the same, as mine is a '77 model 550. Item 40 is the one you are after. Just weld the correct size bolt to a much longer bolt after putting some reasonable heavy weight on it to use as the hammer.

 

[GQROD]

These are the relevant pages and pics. The bolt size that did screw into the centre of my generator rotor was 14mm by 1.5mm pitch. Dont know if yours is the same, as mine is a '77 model 550. Item 40 is the one you are after. Just weld the correct size bolt to a much longer bolt after putting some reasonable heavy weight on it to use as the hammer.

Thankyou very much for the advice and taking the time to post teh drawing i appreciate it, my manual also showed a sliding shaft and that was also the description so it seems you do need that much force to get the rotor off.

 

[Guest]

A Bear

A Bear

From what I found you need alot to remove the rotor. I did not use heat - I was a little leary of aplying heat to this area. My puller is the style without the slide hammer. You screw the puller on and screw in the bolt on the end which then push's on the crank. My rotor was good when I started, I was going after a bad starter clutch. In the process of removing my rotor I damaged it.
From what I found, even with the correct tool - rotor was a bear to remove. Good luck - and keep us informed.

 

[GQROD]

From what I found you need alot to remove the rotor. I did not use heat - I was a little leary of aplying heat to this area. My puller is the style without the slide hammer. You screw the puller on and screw in the bolt on the end which then push's on the crank. My rotor was good when I started, I was going after a bad starter clutch. In the process of removing my rotor I damaged it.
From what I found, even with the correct tool - rotor was a bear to remove. Good luck - and keep us informed.

You are are right about these things being a bear, this is the first time doing this for me since this is my first bike.

I have read prior posts and this is not something to be taken for granted.

I will heat the old rotor and see if it comes out.

For putting the new one on i will heat the new one slightly, and put a bag of ice on the crankshaft just to hopefully get enough clearance for it to go on easier.

I will be replacing the starter clutch also even though it is not bad since i don't want to do this again any time soon.

Thanks all for your help and your advice i will keep you posted, parts are on order so it may take a few days.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

You won't need heat to replace the rotor, it simply fits onto a taper on the end of the crank. When I got mine apart the PO had put Loctite on the taper and that is why it did not want to let go. If you use the type of puller that you screw on and then screw a central bolt in onto the end of the crankshaft and whack the hell out of it -- be careful not to damage the taper or the internal thread for the bolt that holds the rotor onto the end of the crank. That is why I prefer the slide hammer(Suzuki) method.

See below the primitive but effective slide hammer I welded together. I used a 14 X 1.5mm bolt welded to a much longer bolt with a literal hammer head to do the sliding with. Hope this helps.

 

[Scotts]

Wow, I learned something new. Slide hammer. The one I had for my old dirt bike was the one with the nut and bolt. whack with a hammer and she popped right off.

Thanks

Scott

 

[GQROD]

You won't need heat to replace the rotor, it simply fits onto a taper on the end of the crank. When I got mine apart the PO had put Loctite on the taper and that is why it did not want to let go. If you use the type of puller that you screw on and then screw a central bolt in onto the end of the crankshaft and whack the hell out of it -- be careful not to damage the taper or the internal thread for the bolt that holds the rotor onto the end of the crank. That is why I prefer the slide hammer(Suzuki) method.

See below the primitive but effective slide hammer I welded together. I used a 14 X 1.5mm bolt welded to a much longer bolt with a literal hammer head to do the sliding with. Hope this helps.

From what the factory manual says you don't need loctite on the taper , just the bolt.

Your slide hammer is really smart, inexpensive and does the job.

I ordered the slide hammer from suzuki, and the attachment only becuase i didn't want to muck this up from my lack of experience.

My mig welder needs a new cable, the old one was bent by the movers. Other wise i would have utlized your idea and welded up the longer bolt.

Your advice has helped a lot believe me.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

From what the factory manual says you don't need loctite on the taper , just the bolt.

Your slide hammer is really smart, inexpensive and does the job.

I ordered the slide hammer from suzuki, and the attachment only becuase i didn't want to muck this up from my lack of experience.

My mig welder needs a new cable, the old one was bent by the movers. Other wise i would have utlized your idea and welded up the longer bolt.

Your advice has helped a lot believe me.

Yes. Definitely don't use Loctite on the taper, it caused me so much drama getting my rotor off. But the home made puller did it eventually. BTW the bolt that threads into your rotor could be a different size to the 14mm that I quoted for mine. But if you are getting the attachment with the puller from Suzuki then it should all fit OK. Good Luck. Let us know how you get on. How much was the slide hammer and attachment from Suzuki?

 

[GQROD]

Yes. Definitely don't use Loctite on the taper, it caused me so much drama getting my rotor off. But the home made puller did it eventually. BTW the bolt that threads into your rotor could be a different size to the 14mm that I quoted for mine. But if you are getting the attachment with the puller from Suzuki then it should all fit OK. Good Luck. Let us know how you get on. How much was the slide hammer and attachment from Suzuki?

you don't even want to know how much it was!!!!!!! it came to 124.00 just for the puller

23.00 for the attachment

WOW !!!!

But with a broken welder and time being of the essence i'd rather do it right the first time and spend more time not riding.

I will definetly keep this thread updated i'm not sure how long before the parts get here but as soon as they are i'll get cracking and keep everyone posted.

Thanks again for the help.