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85 1150E posi damp units

earlfor

earlfor

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
Charter Member
Ok guys, I have some leaking posi damp units on my front lower forks.
The Suzuki manual says to replace them and offers no rebuild instructions, internal schematic or parts info. I checked Bikebandit and they want $243 each for these little cylinders. I'm thinking anything that can be assembled can also be disassembled and rebuilt. I'm not too keen on forking out $486 bucks plus shipping for a couple of pieces of round aluminum. Has anyone rebuilt these things before? Anyone know of a cheaper source? Ideas? :-) :-)

Earl
 
Earl the FJ1200`s had them on thier forks too. There is a o-ring that seals them to the forks....you don`t suppose that is all thats wrong do you??
 
I"ve had them off Chris and reinstalled them. They dont leak at the "O" ring/flange area. The leak is from under the lip of the plastic cap that is on top of the cylinder. (I havent figured out how to get the cap off either. It stops in either direction and appears not to unscrew.) ????

Earl


cbxchris said:
Earl the FJ1200`s had them on thier forks too. There is a o-ring that seals them to the forks....you don`t suppose that is all thats wrong do you??
Click to expand...
 
Well that does su*k doesn`t it?? I`ll dig around at the bike graveyard....they have some 1150 stuff. Which one of yours is bad...left or right?
 
Its the right one Chris, but I'm pretty sure they are the same unit. Bikebandit gives the same part number for a left as it does for a right side unit.

Earl


cbxchris said:
Well that does su*k doesn`t it?? I`ll dig around at the bike graveyard....they have some 1150 stuff. Which one of yours is bad...left or right?
Click to expand...
 
The little pin that holds the cap on the cylinder is apprx 1/2" long and has long spiral threads, kind of looks like an ease-out . I'm sure it is pressed in, not screwed in
 
I guess I will see if I can just pull the pin out then. There has to be some kind of seal on the cap for it to be leaking there.

Earl
rphillips said:
The little pin that holds the cap on the cylinder is apprx 1/2" long and has long spiral threads, kind of looks like an ease-out . I'm sure it is pressed in, not screwed in
Click to expand...
 
Earl, I did a google search for "posi damp" and only came up with this site: http://www.student.oulu.fi/~samila/paa.html
which had this picture:
rgjuliste.jpg


I know this doesn't help at all but I hope it makes you feel better. :D

Simon
 
The pin is both pressed and threaded into the shaft. You must lift and turn the pin to remove it. I use a pair of flush cut diagonal wire cutters. The sharp edge of the cutters will slip under the edge of the pin, and while applying pressure and turning counterclockwise, the pin will come out. It only needs to turn about a half turn to come out.

The cap can then be lifted straight off the shaft. I used two flat blade screwdrivers and carefully wiggled it off. The cap is plastic, so take care.

When the cap is removed, you will see that the top of the assembly is threaded into the body of the dampener. It takes a thin 26mm wrench to remove the top and slip the shaft out of the unit. I suspect that the shaft seal is where your leak will be found. Finding the O-ring should not be too hard.

I hope this helps.
 
Thanks jack, thats just what I needed to know. Half the battle of fixing anything is making sure you dont destroy more than you fix. :-) :-)
Much appreciated. :-) :-)

Earl



gtsg01 said:
The pin is both pressed and threaded into the shaft. You must lift and turn the pin to remove it. I use a pair of flush cut diagonal wire cutters. The sharp edge of the cutters will slip under the edge of the pin, and while applying pressure and turning counterclockwise, the pin will come out. It only needs to turn about a half turn to come out.

The cap can then be lifted straight off the shaft. I used two flat blade screwdrivers and carefully wiggled it off. The cap is plastic, so take care.

When the cap is removed, you will see that the top of the assembly is threaded into the body of the dampener. It takes a thin 26mm wrench to remove the top and slip the shaft out of the unit. I suspect that the shaft seal is where your leak will be found. Finding the O-ring should not be too hard.

I hope this helps.
Click to expand...
 
Unreal at the GS knowledge available on this board....I think everyone would agree to that!!! Good luck Earl...when mine screws up I`ll ship it to Florida!!! 8O :D
 
Yep Chris, instead of $243 for a new damper unit, its probably going to cost me 35 cents for an "O" ring. :-) :-) :-) Man, I love this place. eh eh eh

Earl


cbxchris said:
Unreal at the GS knowledge available on this board....I think everyone would agree to that!!! Good luck Earl...when mine screws up I`ll ship it to Florida!!! 8O :D
Click to expand...
 
The same unit your talking about was on a few bikes....wasnt on the early GSXR's
thinking, 500 bucks on buying the new parts....you could probably change the front end compleatly for $500
 
Hey! Where did you get that pic of MY bike? :-)

Earl

joe.d said:
The same unit your talking about was on a few bikes....wasnt on the early GSXR's
thinking, 500 bucks on buying the new parts....you could probably change the front end compleatly for $500[/q
uote]
Click to expand...
 
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