'85 GS700e restoration

[soundsource]

And then a little bit of degreasing with the carb-cleaner.

From this:

To this:

I think that's ready for a blast with the pressure washer then another de-grease before I paint... Now to choose paint style/method...

 

[GateKeeper]

Bookmarked! Thank you Mr. GateKeeper... I'll check this out tomorrow

this is the entire site....

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

lot of good stuff

.

 

[GateKeeper]

you can take the gear position sensor off as well, check the O ring there to make sure it's OK and not cracked, watch for the little spring and little pin that is there as well you don't want to lose either of them.

I removed the sensor plugged the hole and then painted

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1633990&postcount=923


.

 

[soundsource]

you can take the gear position sensor off as well, check the O ring there to make sure it's OK and not cracked, watch for the little spring and little pin that is there as well you don't want to lose either of them.

I removed the sensor plugged the hole and then painted

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1633990&postcount=923


.

Nice tip GateKeeper.

While we're at it, this pin (see below) is loose and doesn't seem to mate with anything once it's past the seal. Is that normal?

 

[Billy Ricks]

Nice tip GateKeeper.

While we're at it, this pin (see below) is loose and doesn't seem to mate with anything once it's past the seal. Is that normal?

That's the clutch pushrod. It can be pulled out if you want to get it out of the way. Sanding the fins down enough to remove the scabs won't hurt. There's plenty of fin there. The stator looks like it's okay. Usually you'll see burned insulation on a bad one. Check for shorts and output though to verify. You can check for shorts as is. Just check for continuity between each wire and the core of the windings. If you get continuity on any of the legs you have a short.

 

[soundsource]

That's the clutch pushrod. It can be pulled out if you want to get it out of the way.

Thanks Billy, so it isn't supposed to mate with anything in the crankcase? There's no discernable click when it goes in...

Sanding the fins down enough to remove the scabs won't hurt. There's plenty of fin there.

That's good news! I'll get this cleaned up then! Thanks.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Thanks Billy, so it isn't supposed to mate with anything in the crankcase? There's no discernable click when it goes in...

It runs through to the clutch basket on the other side of the engine. Just a short piece of it comes out the chain side. It goes into the worm drive in the countershaft cover to push the rod in.

 

[soundsource]

It runs through to the clutch basket on the other side of the engine. Just a short piece of it comes out the chain side. It goes into the worm drive in the countershaft cover to push the rod in.

Thanks for the clarification Billy!

 

[soundsource]

Another couple of questions folks:

1. What do I need to complete this rear brake assembly? Are there supposed to be boots on both sides? Does it have shims like the front brake?
2. If anything else is needed where can I source the parts?
3. Should I just try and find a used caliper?
4. Am I right in thinking it would be the same as a GS750 caliper?

Thanks!

 

[Billy Ricks]

Looks like at least one seal is missing. I think I still have my stock one if it's cheaper to pay shipping than to get parts. I'll have to see if mine is still in good shape. If so it's yours if you want it.

 

[jwhelan65]

I would start by yanking those pistons out to see what kind of shape the bore is in. Mine were pitted to the point of having to replace them. If the bores are good you can piece together everything you need to re-build them to new.

 

[soundsource]

Looks like at least one seal is missing. I think I still have my stock one if it's cheaper to pay shipping than to get parts. I'll have to see if mine is still in good shape. If so it's yours if you want it.

I would start by yanking those pistons out to see what kind of shape the bore is in. Mine were pitted to the point of having to replace them. If the bores are good you can piece together everything you need to re-build them to new.

Thank you gentlemen! I'll take jwhelan's advice and strip the caliper down to get a better picture of what state it's really in. Billy If it needs more than a few bits I'll definitely take you up on your offer!

 

[soundsource]

you can take the gear position sensor off as well, check the O ring there to make sure it's OK and not cracked, watch for the little spring and little pin that is there as well you don't want to lose either of them.

I removed the sensor plugged the hole and then painted

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1633990&postcount=923


.

Well that was easy!

 

[soundsource]

Sanding the fins down enough to remove the scabs won't hurt. There's plenty of fin there.

Thanks Billy. Take 2:

Again, not perfect but we're getting somewhere...

 

[soundsource]

I would start by yanking those pistons out to see what kind of shape the bore is in.

Couldn't really see much to begin with:

 

[soundsource]

But now it's a bit clearer:

Well they look pretty clean. No burrs, bumps or pitting that I can see...

 

[soundsource]

The pistons:

 

[soundsource]

One is clean, no marks:

The other has some nasty pitting:

 

[soundsource]

What's the verdict? Can I use both these pistons and bores? Also, am I missing shims to hold the pads in place? I'm pretty sure I'm missing the rubber boot from the left hand piston. Is there anything else?

 

[soundsource]

Sorry, though I'd post a cleaner picture and repeat the question:

What's the verdict? Can I use both these pistons and bores? Also, am I missing shims to hold the pads in place? I'm pretty sure I'm missing the rubber boot from the left hand piston. Is there anything else?