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A 78 1000 running problem.

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
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SVSooke

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When I first start up and get going my 78 1000 runs bad.It kind of sputters along like it's missing on 1 or 2 cylinders.Occasionally it will leap forward like all 4 are going the drop back to sputtering.then about 15 minutes in it will clear up and act like it should with all 4 going .Don't know where to start.Carbs?A bad coil working better warm?The older Martec ignition?The boots are good with new O rings from Mr Barr and the carbs have been done.All the work is in the thread linked in my sig.
 
Got stock pipes?? Stand behind it at start up and listen to which sides sputtering. This will narrow it down to the two carbs that feed that side. Look at the plugs to see what they look like..I suspect lean. Next turn one of the two carbs side screws in about 1/8 turn and see if it changes if they look lean..out if they look rich. I had to do this on my 1000E..little tinkering and it was fine after that...even started easier.
 
Well I sort of took Chucks advice.Not really knowing where the carbs where as I'd been messing with them it was time to just reset them to 1 1/4 turns out.Yeah it seems to run better already but I know it needs to be fine tuned.Just have to remember to do baby steps not huge adjustments:stupid:
 
Anyone close have a colortune they can lend you?? Works wonders with VM carbs. Gets them right at the edge between rich and lean in a matter of a minute or two per cylinder. One thing I noticed with my 1000 is that once it was just barely barely flickering a splash of yellow now and then, I still had to go in on the mixture screws 1/8 turn to eliminate some periodic lean pops.

And yes do small incremental adjustments and give the cylinder a good 30 seconds or so to rerequalise itself to any adjustments made.
 
Well that's MUCH better,still needs some fine tuning. Nobody I'm going to bother has a Colourtune to borrow.Really should have got one when I got the Carbtune but the boss would have choked on spending more$$:rolleyes:
 
Well something is still wrong.Took it out Sunday and it was back to running poorly but good enough to keep up with traffic.On the way back home I hit a hill and all hell broke loose.It could barely do anything.Managed to get it to a place where we could easily load it on the truck and called my wife.Got it home and pulled the carbs.Found they where mostly good but I should have done a slightly better job check jets and stuff:oCleaned all that stuff out and put the carbs back together and installed them.Set the pilot fuel needles(The bottom adjuster) at 3/4 turns out and the pilot airs at 1 and a 1/4 turns out.Checked the petcock while I was at it,all was good there.When I started it ti ran good for a bit then after restating it she went all crazy again.Number 1 started dumping fuel but that seems like it was just a stuck needle valve as that stopped when it died.Starting to think I might have an intermittent ignition problem.Starting to get VERY discouraged as everything on this project seems to be fighting me tooth and nail:(
 
Still have points and condensors?? If so, new or the old ones?? I was thinking condensors going bad..they will sometimes let the bike run but it will be sluggish and very poor spark. Just a thought.
 
I had somewhat similar problems and it turned out to be a coil.
It would take about 10 minutes of running to get hot enough to cause 2 cylinders to intermittently cut out. Felt just like it was time to flip to reserve.
Sit on the side of the road for 10 minutes and it would cool off to ride off like nothing was wrong.
 

No points Chuck,it has this Martek unit.While more reliable than points it is(I assume)getting long in the tooth.Have a bit'o sleuthing to do under to see if it might be something loose.Think I'll change the bullet's out for spades just to be sure that's not a problem.A coil going bad is definitely one thing I'll be looking at Steve :encouragement:
 
It's an optical system instead of an inductance one?:-kPlan on checking the advancer as soon as I can figure out how to get the #$#@*&^ thing off:nightmare:
 
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As I remember them. Take a look on each side at 3 and 9 on the inside of the outer ring., See what looks like bluish white 'eyes'?? Wipe them with a Q tip and some clean water. As I understand it they are like the laser things on a garage door safety thing. The inner part spins and breaks the beam thus sending the signal to fire a spark.

And induction style has a metal tab that passes over some sort of magnetic pad that signals the spark
 
Very interesting,far as I know the Dyna S is inductance as is the OEM.Why we're here;)
 


Undid the 12mm bolt then the 3 screws and got it of:triumphant:Just as Chuck suspected the advancer is seized:mad:Putting some PB Blaster on it but it would be way better IMO if the advancer could be gotten off.Can't seem to do that:confused:
 
pull the center hub and be sure there arent any burrs on the base where it seat against the advancers case, object is to have no dragging spots. Sort of looks like some melted plastic debris on the base plate. There isnt much on the advancer to fail other than rust and gunk on the weights pivoting pins. No broken springs there so it may just need some heavy duty cleaning.
 
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Well it ain't that Chuck,the hub finally let go and:

The weights where loose but you see that slot?The little weights by the sprig fit in them locking the mechanism.The only way to get the hub in is to slide those weights into the slots:confused:
 
Yeah that sums it up.Did clean the eyes,the front eye is on the outside ring,the back one is on an inside ring.
 
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