A cure/replacement for the self canceling signals

[7981GS]

Also allows for running lights and 4-way flashers. Less than a stock replacement part.

https://kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=4&catname=signalMinder


Daniel

 

[chuck hahn]

So how does it install to the 4 and 6 pin connectors that go to the TSCU like on the 78 1000 series bikes? Sounds like they are talking it plugs in where the flasher cube is at.

 

[Hammered]

Wonder, being a SS flasher, if its a cure for LEDs and thermal flashers as well?

 

[rustybronco]

It doesn't appear that it will work with the 78~79 self cancel system.

 

[Guest]

It doesn't appear that it will work with the 78~79 self cancel system.

Yeah, I thought the same thing, aaah shucks.

 

[7981GS]

Has anyone that is looking for one bothered to ASK the manufacturer? :-k

I don't want them to work on my bikes. They cannot keep up with the lane changes anyway.


Daniel

 

[rputney01]

Kisan

Kisan

Wonder, being a SS flasher, if its a cure for LEDs and thermal flashers as well?

Actually, it does work on the '78 and '79 year models, and it does let you substitute LED bulbs. When I got my '79 S, the self-cancelling unit was gone and the harness had been modified to insert the flasher unit inline. I bought the Kisan unit and after some trial and error (a lot of error, actually) I did get it to work to include the brake light modulation and the running lights. I have the harness out of the bike and took some pics. I did this about 4 years ago and don't fully recall all the details, but maybe these pics will help.

This is the harness splice that was in place when I got the bike. I ran some wires back through the harness because I wanted to mount the Kisan unit behind the electrical panel under the seat.

Here is the Kisan unit plugged into the 2 pole connector. I spliced the blue and brown leads to make them longer. They then connect into the harness shown above.

The output wires connected to the turn signals. I just patched them into the wires at the rear of the bike. With what I've learned over the past few years, this could have been done much more elegantly, but it has the virtue of working.

So, if you don't mind splicing the harness, it works very well. The only other concern I've heard is that with the running lights, which I did hook up, it is technically illegal, at least in Missouri, to have yellow running lights on the rear of the bike. I got stopped once and got a warning. An easy fix is to install red LED bulbs in the rear flashers. Even with the yellow lens, they still show up red as running lights.

Hope this helps.

 

[Guest]

I bought Kissan Self Canceling unit for my FZ1. I don't use it anymore.

Coming from the 1100e with self canceling feature it was a hard transition to go to modern bike without this feature. Found there were many times I forgot to cancel the FZ1's signals.

The problem is that when you forget to cancel your turn signal and Signal Minder does it for you, it doesn't reset your turn signal (on the FZ1 at least).

What that means is the next time you use your signal you push it left or right but it doesn't activate the signal because you haven't manually cancelled the signal by pushing it in.

This creates a worse situation IMHO than forgetting to shut off your blinker in the first place ie you start to make a turn thinking your giving a signal but your bike isn't givng other drivers any indication.

I would have loved it if it would have reset the blinker like bikes of old, but it doesn't, and if your like me and your capable of forgetting to turn your blinker off , you are more than likely to foget to manually reset your turn signal after the minder does it and bad things might happen.

This may not be the case for older Suzukis

 

[rustybronco]

Actually, it does work on the '78 and '79 year models,

Did you have the stock momentary contact left hand control (switch), or had someone else converted it over to a latching style turn signal switch?

https://kisantech.com/downloads.php

Bikes with SINGLE handlebar switch:

To cancel, handlebar switch has to be pushed or manually brought to
neutral to stop flashing

The reason I ask is because the switches on the 78~79 E (& 79 S model) are a momentary contact/return to center style switch.

 

[rustybronco]

Possibly this is the answer as you had connected the running lights?

Q. I have installed the Return springs. But now the turn signals will flash only if I hold the switch down. As soon as I let go of the lever, they stop flashing. What?s wrong?

A. You have not made the Running Light option connections. Without the Running Light option hooked up, as soon as the turn signal switch comes to neutral, there?s no continuity. signalMinder needs alternate paths, so it can supply the current to the turn signal bulbs.

 

[rputney01]

Kisan

Kisan

Possibly this is the answer as you had connected the running lights?

Yes, in both cases. The momentary switch was on the bike, so it automatically returned to center and was positioned for the next time I used it. All I had to do was wire it in. I hadn't thought about that, but it makes a great deal of sense.

So, maybe not a great option for a bike other than an S unless you change out the switch as well.

 

[rustybronco]

In my opinion, that replacement cancel unit is not a great option for those unwilling to cobble up their wiring harness.

 

[rputney01]

Kisan

Kisan

In my opinion, that replacement cancel unit is not a great option for those unwilling to cobble up their wiring harness.

I'm inclined to agree. My harness was already altered, so it was a great solution for me. I'm not sure I'd do it otherwise.

 

[rustybronco]

What I'm trying to come up with is a low cost replacement TSCU which only requires you to cut the wires off at the TSCU and attach them to make it virtually a plug and play unit. I drew up a simple circuit with three relays one could easily substitute to get their turn signals working for now, but it doesn't incorporate any of the extended features like a countdown timer or hold off until XX mph, nor is it fail safe in it's operation. I guess I should make time to add those features.

Wallowgreen has already developed a ?P controlled replacement, but the cost to build might end up being on the high side.

 

[rustybronco]

I guess I should make time to add those features.

LM2917 Frequency to Voltage Converter

Over/under speed sensing is one of its usages.

A 555 timer and a few relays... Hummmm...

May be used as an over speed latch. Reset by removing Vcc

 

[Wallowgreen]

Wallowgreen has already developed a ?P controlled replacement, but the cost to build might end up being on the high side.

Exactly!

The cost to me for development was real cheap but that's because I have the luxury of being in a position where I can obtain sample components, development suite's etc.

Even ignoring set up one time expenses, I did a costing to produce the unit I designed for the use of others and the cost of commercialisation became prohibitive to the point I felt no one would pay that much. Consequently, I didn't take it any further.

 

[rustybronco]

And that's the reason for my trying the el' cheepo route using latching relays.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15195&d=1323780825

Digi-key 8A dual coil general purpose latching relay. one coil turns it on the other turns it off. $3.82 each
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/752928-relay-gen-purpose-dpdt-8a-12v-rt424f12.html

 

[rustybronco]

This problem keeps eating at me.

So far I'm thinking of using a 556 (dual 555) timer in bistable mode to operate the relays and using a second 555 as a coundown timer when reaching a speed of 15 miles per hour. Then using a lm2907 as an over speed latch to start the 555 timer. Possibly a nand gate used so you can't operate both signals at once.

Any comments?

 

[chuck hahn]

Has anyony tried soaking an OEM board in something that would dissolve that hard black sealer to expose the undisturbed components and curcuit routings??? Kinda use that as a master of sorts. And Martin..If it worked for many many years and was totally reliable I would buy 3 right now regardless of cost. Reliable and WORKING turn signals are way cheaper than a life at any cost.

 

[rustybronco]

I opened one up by grinding away the outer plastic covering then using a heat gun to remove the potting. A few of the caps exploded while I was heating the potting material.

Chuck, I'd rather use later components then the originals components. It would make repairing it a bit easier with newer components down the road.