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A few weird problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter jakeolsen
  • Start date Start date
J

jakeolsen

Guest
Well to start, my bike is a 1980 GS550e. I am having a couple problems.

First when I have full choke and start it, it is idling at between 4.5k and 5.5k. What could cause this?

I am also having it die at stops a lot, and I don't think it is just poor friction zone technique. I will start off, and it will either die, or it will die when I go into two.

It doesn't seem to be holding idle very well with the choke off, even after warming up.

I have the fuel/air screw set to 2 turns out. Any chance that is a problem?

I know the carbs themselves aren't the problem because they are freshly dipped and rebuilt.

It runs great once she gets going in 2 and up. Any suggestions?
 
Hi,

My thoughts are inline...

jakeolsen said:
Well to start, my bike is a 1980 GS550e. I am having a couple problems.

First when I have full choke and start it, it is idling at between 4.5k and 5.5k. What could cause this?

Sticky throttle cable? Air leaks in the intake system (new boot and O-rings)? Stuck choke cable?

I am also having it die at stops a lot, and I don't think it is just poor friction zone technique. I will start off, and it will either die, or it will die when I go into two.

Improperly adjusted clutch? Idle set too low? Improper carb float levels?

It doesn't seem to be holding idle very well with the choke off, even after warming up.

Air filter properly installed and lightly oiled? Valves clearances adjusted? Clogged pilot circuits?

I have the fuel/air screw set to 2 turns out. Any chance that is a problem?

The mixture screws could be 3 turns out to start with.

I know the carbs themselves aren't the problem because they are freshly dipped and rebuilt.

Did you completely disassemble the carbs and soak them in carb dip for at least 8 hours? Some soak theirs for 24 hours to be sure and get all the nooks and crannys clean.

It runs great once she gets going in 2 and up. Any suggestions?

It still sounds like a carb issue, but there's a chance that it's not. How's your spark? Have you tested your charging system? What shape is your battery in?
Click to expand...

The suggested carb service method is this: CLICK HERE.

Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I will work on all this. The main problem I am having is that it is very hard starting. I can hear the the starter relay click when I am trying to start it. Should I be able to?
 
Would uneven float levels cause it to be difficult to start? I haven't adjusted them, so I am sure they could probably be off.
 
jakeolsen said:
I will work on all this. The main problem I am having is that it is very hard starting. I can hear the the starter relay click when I am trying to start it. Should I be able to?
Click to expand...

It would be a lot harder to start if there were no click.
 
jakeolsen said:
I will work on all this. The main problem I am having is that it is very hard starting. I can hear the the starter relay click when I am trying to start it. Should I be able to?
Click to expand...

Yes you should, but it's typically drowned out by the engine starting up
 
jakeolsen said:
Would uneven float levels cause it to be difficult to start? I haven't adjusted them, so I am sure they could probably be off.
Click to expand...

Jake,

While there are many possible causes as outlined above, this question leads me to believe you did not follow the carb cleaning instructions completely.

We see this all the time"I dipped my carbs and they still aren't right" Then, after doing it right, their bike miraculously works perfectly.

So, is it time for round #2 on the carbs? With new O rings?
 
I followed the rest of the carb guide completely. The only reason I didn't set the floats is because every thread that I looked up on the subject gave a different height, so I was confused. every single rubber piece in the carbs was replaced, as were all jets, needles, and even screws.
 
jakeolsen said:
The only reason I didn't set the floats is because ...
Click to expand...
That line usually comes right after this one:
Big T said:
"I dipped my carbs and they still aren't right"
Click to expand...


OK, so your carbs are "freshly dipped". How long were the carbs in 'the dip'? The can recommends 15 to 30 minutes, but most of us that have done a set or two of carbs have found that 15 to 30 hours is what does the trick. That will soften up any crud in the small passages in the carbs so you can blast them out with carb cleaner spray (don't forget your safety glasses), then further flush them out with compressed air.

After the carb bodies and jets are spotlessly clean, re-assemble the carbs with your new o-rings and set the float levels. The recommended setting in the factory manual is 22.4 mm, +/- 1.0 mm. That is measured from the gasket surface (not the gasket) on the carb body to the top of the curve (not the top of the float) while the carb is inverted.

Here is how and where you should measure it:

IMG_2161.jpg


.
 
Alright. I appreciate the help, but I would not be asking for help with the carbs if there was a chance they were dirty. I soaked them for THREE days while I waited for the rebuild kits to come in the mail. Then I went through three cans of carb cleaner and cleaned out the passages with my air compressor. They could not be cleaner. I even went back and spent an hour cleaning each passage that the choke draws gas from in the bowl. I will also repeat again that I replaced every removable piece from these carbs except for the bracket that holds the float needle housing in place and the floats. I checked the floats to make sure they they did indeed float and had no holes. So can we shift the blame from my carb cleaning abilities?

I will go ahead and adjust the float levels and report back. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
Okay on your last post

You replaced all the jets??

With kit parts?

Stock?

Still have your originals?
 
The bike has 36k on it, so I am sure the valves need adjusting. Problem is that I'll have to order all of the gaskets before I can start that. Also, I have only adjusted the valves on a single cylinder engine, so I am a little worried about my skills, even though I am a serious DIY'er. Is it possible to do the valve adjustments and reuse the gaskets until new one's come in? Would the valves cause it to be hard to start?
 
jakeolsen said:
Alright. I appreciate the help, but I would not be asking for help with the carbs if there was a chance they were dirty. I soaked them for THREE days while I waited for the rebuild kits to come in the mail.
Was that three days EACH or all four of them for a total of three days?
With other problems you mention, it sounds like they were pretty dirty, so a full day for each one would not be out of the question.
Then I went through three cans of carb cleaner and cleaned out the passages with my air compressor.
I hear this quite often and wonder "why?". I frequently manage to clean three sets of carbs on one can of spray cleaner.
They could not be cleaner. I even went back and spent an hour cleaning each passage that the choke draws gas from in the bowl.
If they were that dirty, I would suspect some other problems, too.
I will also repeat again that I replaced every removable piece from these carbs except for the bracket that holds the float needle housing in place and the floats.
You mentioned "carb kits" earlier. Sad to say, but they might be the source of your problem.
I checked the floats to make sure they they did indeed float and had no holes. So can we shift the blame from my carb cleaning abilities?
Not yet.
I will go ahead and adjust the float levels and report back. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

jakeolsen said:
The bike has 36k on it, so I am sure the valves need adjusting.
Yes, the valves are about 32,000 miles past due.
Problem is that I'll have to order all of the gaskets before I can start that.
"All the gaskets"? You only need one, maybe two.
Also, I have only adjusted the valves on a single cylinder engine, so I am a little worried about my skills, even though I am a serious DIY'er.
Do you have a service manual? BassCliff has a copy of the factory manual on his site that you can download. He also has a nice tutorial with his own pictures showing how to do it. You can also look at the bottom of my signature for information on how to get a spreadsheet that I have developed that will help you determine proper shim sizes.
Is it possible to do the valve adjustments and reuse the gaskets until new one's come in?
If this is the first time the valve cover has ever come off, there is a good chance that you will destroy it in the process. If you coat your new gasket with WD-40 or a light film of motor oil, you will probably be able to re-use it a few times. A Real Gasket will last a lifetime, if cared for properly.
Would the valves cause it to be hard to start?
Absatively, posilutely ... YES. Adjust the valves, you won't be able to get your thumb off the starter button quick enough.
Click to expand...
ten characters
 
What are the shims? Is this something I have to buy before i can fix it? How would the carb rebuild kit be part of the problem?
 
Look in the service manual, you will see that "shims" are used between the cams and the buckets that actually push on the valves. They come in different thicknesses so you can adjust the clearance to the proper specs. Best to NOT buy any shims before you see what you have in there now. Chances are that you would buy the wrong quantity of the wrong size, so there is no sense in wasting your money. Open the top of the engine, measure (and record) your clearances, inspect (and record) your shim sizes, see what you can move around and what you need to buy. There is a "shim club" going on the forum that will exchange shims, but I don't know all the details. Contact Ghostgs1 for details. If you choose to buy your new shims and build up your own collection, Z1 is probably the best place, they are about $5.28 each, last time I looked.

The carb kits could be part of your problem because many times they contain parts of questionable quality. Although the numbers on the jets might be correct, there is no guarantee that they are accurate. I used to say that the only useable part is the bowl gasket, but some have found problems with them, too. Your best bet is to clean your stock jets and re-use them. If your bowl gaskets are shot, you can get new ones from any of the on-line sources or your dealer for about $4 or $5 each.

.
 
Jake,

Just remember, we actually are trying to help you out with your problem.

It just seems as tho we're picking on you. We're not

But, you do need to take the advice to eliminate possible causes

So,

1. Adjust valves
2. Clean and reinstall original main and pilot jets
3. Check carbs for cleanliness

And, to show us how wrong we are, post up some big pictures of your carb interiors and your spark plugs
 
I am not saying anyone is wrong. I will post up some pictures though. if you'd like. I will work on this stuff tonight and see where it gets me. I will start by getting the original jets soaking. Report back when I've got something to report.
 
Ok I can update a little more now. I got the valve cover off pretty easily, and the gasket is absolutely destroyed. I new there was a slight leak coming from the left side, but when I took the cover off that whole front well was full of oil. Actually the left side had oil up to the gasket in both wells. The other side had very little oil. What would cause this? I am going to try to get clearance measurements, but I am currently trying to get the screws off of the cover so that I can turn what I need ot to take the measurements. Every screw is so rusty! As with the carbs I am going to definitely be replacing all of the screws. I will take a few pics in a little while. Right now I am going to order a few things.
 
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