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A tip for bleeding brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter AJ
  • Start date Start date
I do it like Normk. I use a MityVac and leave the bleeder nipple open. I also put a loop in the line to the reservoir. This lets the bubbles rise to the top and the fluid stays at the bottom, since it takes a finite amount of time to close the nipple. I then refill the master cylinder reservoir and test the brake to see how firm it is. Takes a bit of time, but a firm brake is worth the time and effort.
 
I use a Mity Vac and pre-fill the calipers and lines with fliud with a seringe before i start.
 
What is the procedure for emptying the old lines, when installing new ones. I have anti dive. Just open the screws and pump the break lever ?
 
I would flush the lines and m/c first, then drain the lines by opening the bleeder valve. I would not empty the master cylinder. It can be a pita to prime again. Be sure and put down protection for anything painted, or the brake fluid will remove it for you.
 
+++ on Koolaid's post regarding clean and flush.

One of the biggest problems when reacting to a post is to differentiate between including what is obvious and that which is very important. I use a small bristle brush and syringe to clean out the "crud" in the master cylinder before any other service, especially bleeding.

One should change brake fluid each year in motorcycle systems in order to avoid corrosion and formation of deposits. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and also oxidizes which cause problems with system operation and lifespan.

The amount of fluid needed to clean out the system is tiny while the cost of replacing a caliper of master cylinder is huge. This doesn't even begin to address ABS components which I service.

Do not use silicone based brake fluids, change the fluid every year, clean and suction the reservoir and you will reduce brake system problems by 99%.

HIH

Norm
 
A high digis coppa pregitar seems to be very effective as well.....as long as the skim gootie is in order......
 
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