• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

A Twist on the POD debate

  • Thread starter Thread starter Redneck
  • Start date Start date
R

Redneck

Guest
Okay, this is a question that has been tickling my mind since the
Wrenching party listening to one of the many interesting conversations going on. PODs! Many people agree that PODs at least on the 550 are not a good idea because they cause to many issues with trying to tune the carbs. Now some of the conversation going around was that the problem with PODs is because the Carbs are four individually ganged carbs and that they do not all receive equal air flow making it difficult to properly tune each carb for its pods actual air intake. Some one even commented that even a simple cross wind could cause a change in the fuel air mixture. So my question is what if you built one shroud that enclosed the edges of all four pods, enclosed on the carb side of the pods but left open at the end facing the back open to maintain the good airflow. Or have I just confused everyone. I think a shroud like that would help make the air flow into the pods equal and prevent the air flow turbulence caused by cross winds. This is my thoughts was wondering what the rest of you think.

P.S. My reasoning for why I would want Pods over stock is for Bobber jobs or chops where you need to remove the airbox because of frame cuts to hard tail or lowering the seat for more of that bob or chopper look.
 
Okay, this is a question that has been tickling my mind since the
Wrenching party listening to one of the many interesting conversations going on. PODs! Many people agree that PODs at least on the 550 are not a good idea because they cause to many issues with trying to tune the carbs. Now some of the conversation going around was that the problem with PODs is because the Carbs are four individually ganged carbs and that they do not all receive equal air flow making it difficult to properly tune each carb for its pods actual air intake. Some one even commented that even a simple cross wind could cause a change in the fuel air mixture. So my question is what if you built one shroud that enclosed the edges of all four pods, enclosed on the carb side of the pods but left open at the end facing the back open to maintain the good airflow. Or have I just confused everyone. I think a shroud like that would help make the air flow into the pods equal and prevent the air flow turbulence caused by cross winds. This is my thoughts was wondering what the rest of you think.

P.S. My reasoning for why I would want Pods over stock is for Bobber jobs or chops where you need to remove the airbox because of frame cuts to hard tail or lowering the seat for more of that bob or chopper look.


The problem with the cone filters is that the stock air box creates a perfect vacuum to feed the motor. When pods are used it disrupts the perfect airflow due to the shape of the cone. The ideal set up as far as performance is concerned is the stock airbox with free flowing filter due to the vacuum draw of the motor. I have been told however that the kn filters, that cost an arm and a leg, create a more desired amount atmospheric pressure due to the shape of the filter.

I also have pods on my gs750 due to a bad stock air box and won't spend the money for the individual kn filters, and I like the look of the pods. So either face the battle of tuning the cone filters or spend the money on the kn filters....
 
Okay, this is a question that has been tickling my mind since the
Wrenching party listening to one of the many interesting conversations going on. PODs! Many people agree that PODs at least on the 550 are not a good idea because they cause to many issues with trying to tune the carbs. Now some of the conversation going around was that the problem with PODs is because the Carbs are four individually ganged carbs and that they do not all receive equal air flow making it difficult to properly tune each carb for its pods actual air intake. Some one even commented that even a simple cross wind could cause a change in the fuel air mixture. So my question is what if you built one shroud that enclosed the edges of all four pods, enclosed on the carb side of the pods but left open at the end facing the back open to maintain the good airflow. Or have I just confused everyone. I think a shroud like that would help make the air flow into the pods equal and prevent the air flow turbulence caused by cross winds. This is my thoughts was wondering what the rest of you think.

P.S. My reasoning for why I would want Pods over stock is for Bobber jobs or chops where you need to remove the airbox because of frame cuts to hard tail or lowering the seat for more of that bob or chopper look.

I guess the more I think about it, you may be able to make a smaller air box but use a better flowing filter??? Not sure if anyone has ever tried this, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Everyone I have ever talked to say the cone filters are junk, but to fashion a custom air box would be cool!
 
I guess the more I think about it, you may be able to make a smaller air box but use a better flowing filter??? Not sure if anyone has ever tried this, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Everyone I have ever talked to say the cone filters are junk, but to fashion a custom air box would be cool!


That was my other idea plotting around in my head was to manufacture an air box of similiar style but move it to a better place.
 
Pods are just like any other performance item. Being a large part of the intake/exhaust system, they'll need a bit of tinkering before everything goes well. They're also more suited to some carbs than others, and sometimes a change in equipment will require a different approach to things like throttle control. If you've got pod-equipped CV carbs, they'll usually bog if you snap the throttle open, but are find if you roll on the throttle. Which you should be doing anyways, as part of riding proficiently. ;)

Back to the topic on hand! If you check out a lot of pics of higher end 1100 and 1000 builds, you'll notice many of them have a baffle between the pods and the engine. It's usually designed so that it blocks air coming from the front end of the bike, but I've seen a few that have little stubs that come up at the sides to help with and side drafts. Do note that many folks here have used pods without any major ill effects, during side wind situations. Others have also reported minor problems with winds and the STOCK air box.

Here's my vote. Do the pods. Keep your stock airbox. Make your new baffle/airbox. If it works, awesome. If not, you've got the stocker to fall back on. Let us know how it comes out!
 
Still waiting to hear results once he gets the bike going for the season but a member here, Macguyver (I cant spell) made some pod covers that when rotated adjusts the airflow. He thinks it will allow him to get the look of the pods but not rejet and just adjust them till it runs proper.

It is an interesting theory and he made some nice looking covers, so really waiting to hear how it went.
 
Hey fellas, i've seen a pic of a bike with pods they had installed a 4" or so tube between the carbs and the filter. Would this help to provide a larger amount of steady air? If that makes sense.
I've also been messing around with k&N pods on a 450 cafe, but I keep going back to the airbox everytime.
 
Don't use the filter box and add a filter to the carb air box. At least on the 1100s they are seperate.
 
Don't use the filter box and add a filter to the carb air box. At least on the 1100s they are seperate.

What I am thinking is more along the lines of using the stock box and maybe using some kind of extension from the carbs to the box so that I can use that under seat area to lower the seat if I decide to do a bobber project in the future. Just idle bored thoughts. First I need to get a bike up and running then move on to crazy project ideas..:D
 
I've never understood how people that have little experience with pods generally have the most negative things to say about them. I've run the same set of K&Ns for about 23 years now, over 60,000 miles, on the same bike. They've been on two different sets of carbs, stock CVs with a Dynojet kit and the current RS flatslides. Never any problem with crosswinds or pouring rain. With the stock carbs and DJ kit I was in the ballpark right off the bat. I may have moved the jet needle once and changed mains once or twice, aside from that they needed very little tinkering. The flatslides make tinkering even easier. Using Mikuni's specs they work fine right out of the box. I can change mains and needle clip positions without pulling the carbs off the bike if I need to.
 
I've never understood how people that have little experience with pods generally have the most negative things to say about them. I've run the same set of K&Ns for about 23 years now, over 60,000 miles, on the same bike. They've been on two different sets of carbs, stock CVs with a Dynojet kit and the current RS flatslides. Never any problem with crosswinds or pouring rain. With the stock carbs and DJ kit I was in the ballpark right off the bat. I may have moved the jet needle once and changed mains once or twice, aside from that they needed very little tinkering. The flatslides make tinkering even easier. Using Mikuni's specs they work fine right out of the box. I can change mains and needle clip positions without pulling the carbs off the bike if I need to.
Pods are evil
 
Especially the "twist on pods", I never even hear of them before :(
Now that's witty.
image015.gif
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBuvK3Z-eMU

That guy is running pods and look how crappy his bike runs! It won't even rev right when he snaps the throttle!!

I'm pretty sure those that bash the pods either, A. love the stupid look of the stock bike and/or love using spray foam to seal a POS PITA air box or, B. completely failed at trying to use pods themselves because they are craptastic mechanics.

Think about older cars that used multiple carbs... There is air flow under the hood when the vehicle is moving... Or hell, the muscle cars that have the air filters sticking up through the hood or have hood scoops. Now who said a "side wind" will screw your pod filter tune up? I'd like to smack that dumb shmuck. They are individual and you must remember that when tuning! Either try to balance all 4 carbs to the same air flow by using baffles or shrouds on cyl 1 and cyl 4, or adjust your jets/slides to compensate for the extra/cooler air that those 2 carbs will take in.

I was playing around with this silly idea in my mind of making a manifold for all 4 cylinders and using 1 large carb... Like a car. Tuning would be fairly easy providing that you make all 4 runners equal length, which wouldn't be too difficult on a bike, since the intake ports are close together. If you could find a large enough carb, preferably CV, and side draft of course, it should work and run pretty good.
 
Last edited:
A Twist on the POD debate

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBuvK3Z-eMU


I was playing around with this silly idea in my mind of making a manifold for all 4 cylinders and using 1 large carb... Like a car. Tuning would be fairly easy providing that you make all 4 runners equal length, which wouldn't be too difficult on a bike, since the intake ports are close together. If you could find a large enough carb, preferably CV, and side draft of course, it should work and run pretty good.


I remember seeing an Honda 750 4 in the 70's with 2 carbs on and it went like a rocket.
Cant remember the name of the carbs but think they were Italian.
 
Don't use the filter box and add a filter to the carb air box. At least on the 1100s they are seperate.

I was considering doing this to maintain a stock look while still providing better airflow.
I can no longer use the airbox due to frame bracing meaning the battery required raising and is now in the way.
Do you suggest a K&N or a Foam Unifilter?
 
I remember seeing an Honda 750 4 in the 70's with 2 carbs on and it went like a rocket.
Cant remember the name of the carbs but think they were Italian.

I've seen those before and it always struck me as a good idea. It always amazes me how much carb we put on bikes compared to autos. I run a 600 cfm Autolite 4 BBL on the 351 in my boat. It has four 1.12" / 28.45 mm barrels and makes around 300 hp at 4800 rpm.
I read an article on head flow of the cb750's that stated that the 28 mm carbs it has are the restricting component and the head could support bigger carbs.
So 4 28.45 mm barrels can support 300 hp on a 351 v8,
but 4 28 mm carbs restrict the cb750 to only 67 hp - crankshaft numbers.
 
Back
Top